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> Tips for removing rocker cheeseheads?
tdgray
post Feb 13 2015, 06:42 PM
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Pb blaster is over priced oil water... Kroil is it...little blast every other day for two weeks...should squeak right out.
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partwerks
post Feb 13 2015, 09:21 PM
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I used one of those impact screw drivers, I think it is called, that you smack with a hammer, and they jarred loose.
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VaccaRabite
post Feb 13 2015, 09:35 PM
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Yep, Ive used impact screwdrivers on stuck screws like this before. They are great tools when you need them.

Zach
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pete000
post Feb 13 2015, 10:22 PM
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QUOTE(warrenoliver @ Feb 13 2015, 04:23 PM) *

couple of years ago, I had the same problem. I got them out by first jacking the car up and putting it on jackstands to give me some clearance. I then got a big ass screw driver with a thick square shank. I put the handle of the screwdriver on my floor jack and jacked it up slowly while positioning the screwdriver blade in the slot of the screw. Once I had it firmly pressed in the slot with the jack, I put a crescent wrench on the screwdriver shank and I was able to back the screws out one at a time. Slow going but very effective. the pressure applied by the jack prevented the screwdriver from slipping out of the slot.

YMMV (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)



I like this approach !! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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euro911
post Feb 14 2015, 03:19 AM
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Were cheese-heads the original type of fasteners used for the rocker panels? Mine are hex-head bolts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Whatever you do, take extreme precautions if you use a flame after spraying any chemical agent. If you inhale the fumes, they can kill you.
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rgalla9146
post Feb 14 2015, 07:28 AM
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I've had cars high enough to use a hand impact (which is a great tool) and the results were mixed.
Sometimes the head of the screw just breaks off .
Sometimes half the head comes off.
The worst thing that has happened is that the welded nut breaks loose inside the long.
Don't pound away.
Don't try to heat anything with the rocker still on.
Grind the head off, center punch, then drill it out.
OR , grind flat, center punch, drill through, then heat the small area around the screw and try an EZ out.
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Krieger
post Feb 14 2015, 09:07 AM
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I don't think anyone has said this, but get a hammer and a screw driver that you can hit. Put screw driver in the screw slot and lightly tap on it with the hammer. Not with a twisting motion, but dead on. This helps to break the screw/bolt free.
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worn
post Feb 14 2015, 09:34 AM
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QUOTE(warrenoliver @ Feb 13 2015, 04:23 PM) *

couple of years ago, I had the same problem. I got them out by first jacking the car up and putting it on jackstands to give me some clearance. I then got a big ass screw driver with a thick square shank. I put the handle of the screwdriver on my floor jack and jacked it up slowly while positioning the screwdriver blade in the slot of the screw. Once I had it firmly pressed in the slot with the jack, I put a crescent wrench on the screwdriver shank and I was able to back the screws out one at a time. Slow going but very effective. the pressure applied by the jack prevented the screwdriver from slipping out of the slot.

YMMV (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)



Dang, but that was clever!

I drilled out mine. Found the rockers we held by sheet metal screws right next to all the broken off screws. I was able to save every one of them though with patient drilling. This is for the possibility. OI hope the other methods work. Unfortunately rust is a product of the original iron and O2, so it is bigger than the original piece and can effectively lock a screw in place beyond yield strength. The trick of an oxyacetylene torch to cherry red rarely failes, but I can see why that might not be an option. I also have had luck squirting my flamable penetrating oil of choice on the threads, heating with a torch until the thing produces a little flame and then as it cools squirting more oil on. The heat seems to help draw the oil in.

Good luck!!
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satche
post Feb 14 2015, 12:49 PM
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QUOTE(warrenoliver @ Feb 13 2015, 07:23 PM) *

couple of years ago, I had the same problem. I got them out by first jacking the car up and putting it on jackstands to give me some clearance. I then got a big ass screw driver with a thick square shank. I put the handle of the screwdriver on my floor jack and jacked it up slowly while positioning the screwdriver blade in the slot of the screw. Once I had it firmly pressed in the slot with the jack, I put a crescent wrench on the screwdriver shank and I was able to back the screws out one at a time. Slow going but very effective. the pressure applied by the jack prevented the screwdriver from slipping out of the slot.

YMMV (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

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sdthomas
post Feb 14 2015, 04:58 PM
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Got it! The combination of heat from a little butane torch, tapping with a hammer and careful use of vice grips did the trick.

And the best part was seeing that there's no serious rust issues in the long and jack stand areas.

Thanks again for all the advice.Attached Image


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Johns914
post Feb 16 2015, 10:23 AM
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QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Feb 13 2015, 02:20 PM) *

If those fail, this always works for me on stuck screws.

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwd...case-37530.html

The torque it provides really helps. Just be VERY careful not to dent anything!



This tool is good for stubborn bolts. I have used one similar to remove frozen door hinge bolts from a rusted out Triumph. Highly recommend it.

Beer also does help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
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tdgray
post Feb 16 2015, 06:50 PM
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Throw some ospho on there while they are off.
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pete000
post Feb 16 2015, 07:00 PM
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Love a good success story !

I had a similar finding with mine...





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