2.7 Six conversion questions, Oil cooler and motronic Options

[bigkensteele]

914 fenders do not get pass through air like a 911. Lots of threads on different oil cooler locations but like Andy said, the front is the most effective. It's just a pain in the wallet to get it there.

Problem is that I want to run an LE dam and I don't want to cut my bumper, so getting air into it is the issue.

I am not running fog lights currently. I wonder if enough air enters the grills to be effective? It's gotta go somewhere, right? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Mark Henry]

Some one did this and said it worked well, but it's two coolers and I believe he plumbed them in parallel. Used two AN-10 mesa coolers. I can't remember who did it but it was a member here.

[wndsrfr]

My 2.7 has RS pistons, S cams, and Webers with an Electromotive ignition. It put out 199 hp at the wheels, so you can get power. I'd investigate getting the Bitz EFI system if you have the CIS parts. You can't do much more cam retaining the CIS.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
Mine's like his but with PMO's, same as Webers & got a bit over 200 .....here's the graph:

[JmuRiz]

Most cam with CIS pistons is an SC grind or maybe a 964 grind (I've heard it should work, but don't know anyone that's tried it).

I have the CIS and a good set of webers and sc grind cams, not sure what route I'll take yet.
A 200+ hp engine would be awesome, just need to see about $$ and what my existing parts condition.

[bigkensteele]

I have a set of the Crane GE60 equivalents, but Bruce Anderson says that they are too much for a 2.7, so I am leaning toward a 964 grind. I am budgeting for 9.5:1 JE pistons rather than running the stock 8.5:1 CIS units. I did get lucky because my jugs are nikasil, so hopefully all they will need is a nice hone.

My hope is that if I bump up the compression to 9.5:1 with JEs and swap in 964 cams, I can get somewhere around 200hp with the Bitz MS kit and keep heat with the new Stoddard exchangers.

While I am in there, I will probably do the oil bypass mod if I can find a new pump. I may even try porting the heads with my Dremel. They are currently 32/32.

I can't find any local machine shop that I am comfortable with, so all of this is probably going to be sent to Ollies in AZ, unless someone can recommend an east coast shop.

Thanks,
Ken

[Van914]

Ken,
You can run a front cooler without changing the bumper. I just cut the LE spoiler to get air to the cooler. Never had a problem with temp. At the track with my 3.0ltr. I used a fiberglass reproduction shroud to direct air down through the trunk floor.
Van

[Steve]

I plan on doing the same thing with my chrome bumper.
Getty design sells the shroud. You can also see pictures of it in my blog.
http://www.gettydesign.com/914_bodywork.php#gtoil
I am running a mocal thermostat. I would also recommend a fan under the shroud if you plan on driving it on the street and get stuck in grid lock traffic. Otherwise for the track and open freeway, it will never overheat with the above setup. Patrick Motorsports sells a cooler that fits in there perfect. You could also use a Mazda RX7 cooler, but you will have to cut the shroud a bit to make it fit. I'm running the Patrick cooler with standard steel braided line down the rocker panel like the GT cars,

[SLITS]

Some one did this and said it worked well, but it's two coolers and I believe he plumbed them in parallel. Used two AN-10 mesa coolers. I can't remember who did it but it was a member here.

Jim Lamonica did it on his 3.6. I believe his log on is "six" here or on Club Narp.

[campbellcj]

I cut a notch out of an LE spoiler as well. I use different spoilers on the track, but this one has seemed fine on the street. Bear in mind that just adding the cooler also adds a lot of oil capacity and a lot of surface area in lines and t-tstat. That helps too.

[gereed75]

While I am in there, I will probably do the oil bypass mod if I can find a new pump. I may even try porting the heads with my Dremel. They are currently 32/32.

I can't find any local machine shop that I am comfortable with, so all of this is probably going to be sent to Ollies in AZ, unless someone can recommend an east coast shop.

I recomend Craig Garret (Cgarr on Pelican board). He just did an excellent job on a set of heads for me. Ported 32 out to 36. He also does case savers and the bypass mod but he does not do line boring.

At the very least, talk with him about your heads. He is very reasonable, does great work and is relatively quick and is very easy to deal with. At his prices, I would not screw around trying to do the ports yourself unless you are looking for the experience.

[GeorgeRud]

Ollie's should be a great choice. Since mine had been previously rebuilt many years ago, I sent the long block to Henry at Supertec in Fallbrook, CA to do the last one. Couldn't be happier with the rebuild and the turnaround time. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for (see Motormeister).

[JmuRiz]

FYI when pricing out a 2.45 for my brother, Henry's prices didn't seem too bad compared to others. If I didn't have a local guy to check mine out, I'd probably send it over to him.

[bigkensteele]

Thanks to all for the responses. I was looking for more seat of the pants and personal experience opinions/data than what I have found in the Anderson and Dempsey books, and you guys have provided that.

My vision is a bit more clear. Leaning toward the Bitz MegaSquirt kit with a custom air box, trying out the GE60 cams that I have with JE 9.5:1 pistons and having the heads ported a bit. This should put me close to my 200 hp goal without spending stupid money. I am still thinking that the external cooler is going somewhere in the back of the car and finding out at the first DE or AX if that is going to work.

One more question - I am not sure that I want to weld an O2 sensor bung(s) into the new heat exchangers that I plan on buying. Would a bung or bungs in the muffler work?