Axle/CV Joint Question, Can I use the axle Options

[jrrhdmust]

So my CV joint have been sitting around for about 2 years uncovered. I new I was going to have to regrease the end that connects to the transmission. I recently pulled the CV joint apart, and cleaned it.

I then pulled the axle part that connects to the wheel, and I had this thought...

"Why can't I bolt this (the part of the drive shaft that bolts to the hub) on the car, and regrease the CV joints, and just cover the CV joints and put the axle on the shelf"?

This would do two things, I could remount the tires and have a roller, while not have the axles flop around until I am ready to put the trans and engine back in.

Sooo is this ok? Seems ok to me, I would mark which one can off which axle so I could reinstall.

[OU8AVW]

Some folks buy an extra set of axles.....
I made bolt on covers to protect my CVs while they were off the car....

[pcar916]

You're talking about CV removal at the stub-axle.

1. The inboard CV is bolted to the output flange at the transaxle.

2. The outboard CV is bolted to the stub-axle, which goes through the trailing-arm bearing and is a spline-fit into the wheel-hub.

To your question, I store complete axles/CV's/stub-axles with plastic bags over the ends, ready to be installed. It makes for very quick CV changes since the stub-axles don't have to be separated from the CV's. In your case though...

I undo the one axle-nut on the outside, unbolt the CV at the output flanges at the transaxle, and pull the entire axle/stub-axle as a unit. You can get a couple of spare stub-axles and tighten them into the hubs. Assuming these are 4-cylinder stubs, they're as cheap as dirt.

On your axle units, you can separate the outside CV's to clean them a lot easier when it's out of the car rather than work inside the trailing arm cavity around the rubber boots. Especially if you don't use CV gaskets, it's a bear to get a clean CV/stub-axle seal working inside the grubby trailing arm.

Good Luck!

[jrrhdmust]

You're talking about CV removal at the stub-axle.

1. The inboard CV is bolted to the output flange at the transaxle.

2. The outboard CV is bolted to the stub-axle, which goes through the trailing-arm bearing and is a spline-fit into the wheel-hub.

To your question, I store complete axles/CV's/stub-axles with plastic bags over the ends, ready to be installed. It makes for very quick CV changes since the stub-axles don't have to be separated from the CV's. In your case though...

I undo the one axle-nut on the outside, unbolt the CV at the output flanges at the transaxle, and pull the entire axle/stub-axle as a unit. You can get a couple of spare stub-axles and tighten them into the hubs. Assuming these are 4-cylinder stubs, they're as cheap as dirt.

On your axle units, you can separate the outside CV's to clean them a lot easier when it's out of the car rather than work inside the trailing arm cavity around the rubber boots. Especially if you don't use CV gaskets, it's a bear to get a clean CV/stub-axle seal working inside the grubby trailing arm.

Good Luck!

So this is pretty much what I was looking for. I already have the stub axles out of the car. I was going to split the stub axle off and bolt it back in. Based on your comment I went back and look at the trailing arms, and it would suck trying to bolt up a regreased CV with a seal, to the stub axle in the cavity.

Thanks for the comment!

[TheCabinetmaker]

Your on the right track reinstalling the stub axle. Moving the car without it will run your wheel bearing.