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> Door handle adjustment, interior door handle
03blueboo
post Apr 6 2015, 12:58 PM
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Has anyone replaced door handles recently? With out going into too much background, I changed both the exterior and interior handles. Now, with the door panel on, I can't get the door open from the inside. Is there an adjustment somewhere in the door that will take a little slack out of the rod connecting the handle to the unlocking mechanism?

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stugray
post Apr 6 2015, 01:28 PM
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What happens if you pull back on JUST the lock tab?
Does the door open?

One of my handles has too much slop to open the door from the inside with the regular handle, but it opens of you pull the lock tab instead.

Youll find that the longer handle just pulls the lock handle after about 75% of it's travel.
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era vulgaris
post Apr 6 2015, 03:23 PM
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I had a similar situation with my old '72. When I first got it, the inside door handle had to be pulled all the way, hard, for the door to open. Then eventually it stopped working. I discovered that if I removed the trim piece that frames the lever and lock, that I could easily open the door because the frame/trim piece was preventing the lever from moving far enough to pull the latch.

My solution: Remove the door card and you'll see there's a crimp/bend in the linkage about halfway between the lever and the latch. I took some vice grips and went at the bend, rotating it with everything I had, to tighten the linkage. Door worked fine after that even with the frame/trim piece back on.

I think years of people yanking on the lever stretched out the linkage.
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Mike Bellis
post Apr 6 2015, 06:51 PM
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Make sure you use the short screw on the handle and not the one from the window crank. The longer screw can stop the handle from working.
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SirAndy
post Apr 6 2015, 06:56 PM
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QUOTE(Mike Bellis @ Apr 6 2015, 05:51 PM) *
The longer screw can stop the handle from working.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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03blueboo
post Apr 6 2015, 10:53 PM
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Thanks all. Yes, I tried pulling on just the lock, no change. I did modify the trim piece to no effect. I'll try crimping the linkage next. I'll let you know the results late this week.

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TheCabinetmaker
post Apr 7 2015, 01:11 AM
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It's the screw!
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rmdinmd
post Apr 7 2015, 06:24 AM
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on mine the metal failed and I had to replace it (twice). The little tab starts to bend away so you have to pull harder and it bends more until it wont work at all. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) if you remove it and look very closely (where it pivots on the back side) at how it works and you operate it you can see it if it is broken. I got used ones but I believe I have seen new ones foe sale, not cheap but not 40 years old either. Cleaning the latch mechanism helps but make sure you lube it well.
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boxstr
post Apr 7 2015, 08:09 AM
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Shorten your screw and reinsert (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)
Craig at CAMP
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03blueboo
post Apr 7 2015, 12:55 PM
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I didn't get a chance to mess with it last night. I'll check the screw first as that would be the easiest fix.
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Dave_Darling
post Apr 7 2015, 01:35 PM
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You swapped the screws between the window crank and the door latch. Happens all the time.

--DD
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03blueboo
post Apr 8 2015, 08:10 PM
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It was the screw. I want to say that most of the hardware on the car is wrong. This screw is too long, so of course, I screwed it down until it was tight. I guess I'll need to find a shorter version.

Thanks everyone for the help. I was going nuts trying to figure out the problem.
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stugray
post Apr 8 2015, 08:15 PM
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Glad to hear it was easy!

I wish it was that easy on my suburban now. I was getting new tires on the car hauler and race tires for the 914 mounted and I cant get out of the suburban without rolling down the window and reaching outside!

I was thinking "WTF! Am I in the 914 again!"
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Deusexmachina77
post Aug 26 2023, 12:49 PM
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I can't believe this worked.
The simplest fix I've done.(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
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