 timing etc, getting car going after engine down to longblock |
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| bembry |
 Apr 7 2015, 08:37 AM
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#1
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Senior Member  Group: Members Posts: 529 Joined: 29-July 05 From: Bakersfield, CA Member No.: 4,499 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region  |
Apologies for ignorance in advance--I've never done this though.
I'm getting my car running after having the engine out, and down to the longblock after having some work done on it. All sheet metal on top is back on and the motor is back in. What I need to do still: - Attach exhaust, bottom warm air guides, and heater tubes (J tubes) (exhaust is already complete from HEs to muffler) - Put on Carbs, distributor, linkage, and hook up fuel lines and fuel pump. (The carbs and intake manifolds were taken off as a unit, and are still bolted together.) - get running. My questions/concerns in getting running. Once everything is together, I verify TDC, put the distributor rotor facing #1 cylinder, then start and set timing, right? I do have a timing light, and the marks on the fan are very visible, and already at the top. What am I missing here? Motor is a 2056 with dual 40 webers. This is probably pretty routine stuff for a lot of you guys, but a big step for me...any help is appreciated. |
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| stugray |
Apr 7 2015, 11:47 AM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,825 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
Look up "static timing". The procedure is easy.
You need a 12VDC trouble light or a Voltmeter. And when you "Set TDC" make sure you have it at TDC #1 COMPRESSION STROKE. One of the biggest mistakes at this point is putting it at TDC using the mark on the flywheel, but getting it on the wrong stroke. |
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| Bob L. |
Apr 7 2015, 12:01 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 848 Joined: 7-August 11 From: Austin TX Member No.: 13,411 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Yeah, what he said, but don't forget to add oil and build oil pressure in the system before trying to start it. Plugs out, coil disconnected and no fuel.
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| stugray |
Apr 7 2015, 12:12 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,825 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
And DONT prefill the oil filter before installing it.
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| bembry |
Apr 7 2015, 07:12 PM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 529 Joined: 29-July 05 From: Bakersfield, CA Member No.: 4,499 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
QUOTE(stugray @ Apr 7 2015, 11:12 AM)  And DONT prefill the oil filter before installing it. Stu, I wont, but why shouldnt we prefill the oil filter? |
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| stugray |
Apr 7 2015, 07:47 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,825 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(bembry @ Apr 7 2015, 07:12 PM) QUOTE(stugray @ Apr 7 2015, 11:12 AM) And DONT prefill the oil filter before installing it. Stu, I wont, but why shouldnt we prefill the oil filter? If the engine has just been built, the oil pump is full of air (not primed). If you fill the filter, then the pump has to push the oil OUT of the filter using air before the pump will get primed. If you leave the filter empty the pump will prime faster because it doesnt have to blow bubbles through the oil in the filter to prime. If you are doing an oil change and the pump is still primed, you can prefill if you want. I have heard tales of filling the pump with grease during assembly for an instant prime but I have never tried it. |
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| ThePaintedMan |
Apr 7 2015, 07:56 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States 
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QUOTE(stugray @ Apr 7 2015, 09:47 PM) I have heard tales of filling the pump with grease during assembly for an instant prime but I have never tried it. Yeah I've heard folks talk about petroleum jelly/Vaseline. Makes sense to me, but so does your method Stu. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
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