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> Troubleshooting help needed- /6 engine rebuild won't turn, DAMMIT!!!!! Found the problem
tornik550
post May 2 2015, 07:54 PM
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Argh- I rebuilt a 2.7l this winter. Everything went very well with no obvious problems. I installed my engine, hooked up all the hoses, filled with oil and hooked up the starter. I had problems with the starter wiring however I finally got them resolved. I was getting 12.6v at the starter. I cranked the starter and the engine turned a couple of times then stopped. When I would crank the starter again, it would just sound like a starter with too low of voltage- the solenoid would shoot out but the starter wouldn't turn. I checked voltage and it was 12.5v. If I look at the fan blade when I crank the starter, I do not see it move even slightly.

What are my options of what could be wrong? I see it as a starter problem or the engine is somehow seized. I do not have the axels hooked up so I cannot see if the engine turns by pushing the car in gear. I have a small window cut in the firewall so I wiggled a 19mm box wrench onto the timing pulley nut. I tried to see if I could turn the engine even slightly and I could not. I couldn't put much force into it however I would have thought it would have moved to some extent.

I think I will remove the starter and see if it cranks off of the car. If it functions properly, how can I check to see if the engine is seized without installing the axles. Is there anything common that could cause this issue? I would really prefer not to remove the engine. I am getting somewhat sick of working on it.

Any ideas?
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toolguy
post May 7 2015, 11:11 PM
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Check out the intake closer when you pull the valves . . . thinking if it had to fall through from the intake port who knows if it got trapped there and got tapped. .
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gereed75
post May 8 2015, 05:37 AM
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Tornik, Sorry to see that.

I would highly recommend Craig Garrett (Cgarr on the bird board www.G2Performanceshop.com ). He is in MI, does excellent work for reasonable $$ in a short time and is very accessible. Check with him to ensure he can make this repair, and if he can, he is the man.
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SLITS
post May 8 2015, 08:59 AM
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Since the cylinder to head sealing surface is compromised, you need to have him do all 3 heads on the bank so that they are at the same height IF they cut the sealing surface on the one head you are having repaired.
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Dr Evil
post May 8 2015, 10:42 AM
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Ya, busting a nut can cost you in so many ways....

I feel for you. The reason I needed a replacement cylinder which lead to the wrong size and busted piston was because when I tightened the head down the head gasket unseated and warped the seating groove. Small thing, big headache, stupid mistake I have not repeated since. This weekend is shitty, but I might be able to help once I get caught up on my transmission backlog.
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bigkensteele
post May 8 2015, 12:38 PM
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QUOTE(gereed75 @ May 8 2015, 03:37 AM) *

Tornik, Sorry to see that.

I would highly recommend Craig Garrett (Cgarr on the bird board www.G2Performanceshop.com ). He is in MI, does excellent work for reasonable $$ in a short time and is very accessible. Check with him to ensure he can make this repair, and if he can, he is the man.


That link goes nowhere. Typo?
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gereed75
post May 8 2015, 04:38 PM
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Copied and paste from bird board. Look for him over there. cgarr
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