Need Raby 9590 cam info Options

[Frank S]

Hi there,

I'm about to order parts for my engine rebuild.

The plan is to upgrade a 2.0 GA D-Jet engine as following:

2056cc
Stroke 71mm (stock)
CR 9:1
Raby 9590 cam
SSI Heatexchangers
Original Muffler

The only thing stoping me right now is that I need verify CO2 emissions every 2 years here in Germany.

My questions are now:
1. Does this set up idle well and stable at 900-950RPM
2. Does it reach the 3% CO2 spec. in idle

I know that a none stock cam should not idle so low, this will be just for the time of the measurement.
Without reaching this spec values I not able to register the car here in Germany :-(

Thanks and best Regards,
Frank

[EdwardBlume]

PM Jake Raby. He's the guy who made the cam.

[Java2570]

Also, contact Type 4 store and see if they have any insight. Jake may not offer much support since he no longer sells those parts. I've got the same cam but am still building the engine so I can't offer advice. I do hear that the previous 9550 cam that Raby sold ran best at slightly higher idle RPM due to being slightly rich at idle. Don't know if the 9590 is better in that regard but it may be hard to get where you need to be to pass.

[toon1]

My 9550 cam idles good at 900-950 rpm.

My AFR at idle is usually around 13:1, with idle timing being about 14*BTDC

[Frank S]

Hi guys,
thanks for your input!

Anybody else out there running that setup?

Thanks!
Frank

[Jake Raby]

Idle speed of 1,000 is where I optimized the 9550. Lots of people run these in California and other states that require sniff tests without issue.

The trick is adjusting initial advance to 14* then limiting the full advance to 28-30*. If you must get a sniff test, run the lowest octane that you can find and get the engine hot just before the test.

[Dave_Darling]

The only 914s that require testing in CA any more are the 76es.

--DD

[SirAndy]

The only 914s that require testing in CA any more are the 76es.

--DD

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Frank S]

Idle speed of 1,000 is where I optimized the 9550. Lots of people run these in California and other states that require sniff tests without issue.

The trick is adjusting initial advance to 14* then limiting the full advance to 28-30*. If you must get a sniff test, run the lowest octane that you can find and get the engine hot just before the test.

Hello Jake,
thanks for the advice.

Two questions I have.

1. Does that count also for the 9590?
2. What CR would you recommend for a street application, not looking for max.HP but a smooth and cool running engine which idles well (elevation is around 1000ft)?

Thanks again and best Regards,
Frank
P.S. Here the sniff test counts in from year 71 and officially no changes from stock are allowed :-(

[euro911]

Not sure how different the profile is on the 9590 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) … I have the 9580, and it's either 9:1 or 9.5:1 (I don't recall what CR Richard built it at).

He had me source a Bosch VJR 4 BR 8 (36HP bus/356 dizzy) to provide an optimum advance curve.

It idles fine at 900~1000, but I'm still getting a little bog-down at WOT. Need to analyze and re-jet for the new banana muffler (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

One thing's for sure - it wouldn't pass a smog test. Glad it's exempt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[toon1]

Idle speed of 1,000 is where I optimized the 9550. Lots of people run these in California and other states that require sniff tests without issue.

The trick is adjusting initial advance to 14* then limiting the full advance to 28-30*. If you must get a sniff test, run the lowest octane that you can find and get the engine hot just before the test.

I've been running the 9550 for 4 years now and never knew this info.

I just happened to stumble across these settings when tuning MS.

This seemed to give the best MAP signal and throttle response.

[Porschef]

Likewise, for about the last four years. I'd been messing with the mixture, trying to find the happy medium between head temps and fuel consumption (too fat)

Retarding the timing, and installing the aux oil cooler has it now at the point where I feel it's finally dialed in very closely. The last issue was the idle, I've now got it in the 950 range, and the car just feels better.

Drove it today, 75 degrees, and at highway speeds my oil doesn't go over 210, and head temps are right around 340. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Under load, and pushed uphill, 375-380 is about where it peaks.

I'll check that idle timing, and see if I'm close to that 14 number. Then I'm gonna call it good...

[toon1]

Likewise, for about the last four years. I'd been messing with the mixture, trying to find the happy medium between head temps and fuel consumption (too fat)

Retarding the timing, and installing the aux oil cooler has it now at the point where I feel it's finally dialed in very closely. The last issue was the idle, I've now got it in the 950 range, and the car just feels better.

Drove it today, 75 degrees, and at highway speeds my oil doesn't go over 210, and head temps are right around 340. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Under load, and pushed uphill, 375-380 is about where it peaks.

I'll check that idle timing, and see if I'm close to that 14 number. Then I'm gonna call it good...

You won't be able to get 14* with a stock dizzy. Your overall timing will be way too advanced.

I have a 36-1 trigger wheel so I can control all my advance areas

[Porschef]

Ahh, ok. Yes, that would be too high at idle. I'll get the light on it over the weekend and see where I'm at at 3500 rpm.

Thanks

[worn]

The only 914s that require testing in CA any more are the 76es.

--DD

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

You mean that the poster is being tested in Germany not California?

[worn]

Likewise, for about the last four years. I'd been messing with the mixture, trying to find the happy medium between head temps and fuel consumption (too fat)

Retarding the timing, and installing the aux oil cooler has it now at the point where I feel it's finally dialed in very closely. The last issue was the idle, I've now got it in the 950 range, and the car just feels better.

Drove it today, 75 degrees, and at highway speeds my oil doesn't go over 210, and head temps are right around 340. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Under load, and pushed uphill, 375-380 is about where it peaks.

I'll check that idle timing, and see if I'm close to that 14 number. Then I'm gonna call it good...

I have the cam and compression numbers of the original poster in a 2056. Idle is generally smooth. My only problem has been trading fuel ratio with head temps. Needs to be awful rich to stay cool. I will try the timing suggested by Jake.
If I were to do it again I would have used a stock cam.

Btw, where can one obtain a stock grind on a new cam?? Of course auto correct is more interested in seafood and made it clam.

[euro911]

European Motor Works will get you any cam profile you want.

[toon1]

Likewise, for about the last four years. I'd been messing with the mixture, trying to find the happy medium between head temps and fuel consumption (too fat)

Retarding the timing, and installing the aux oil cooler has it now at the point where I feel it's finally dialed in very closely. The last issue was the idle, I've now got it in the 950 range, and the car just feels better.

Drove it today, 75 degrees, and at highway speeds my oil doesn't go over 210, and head temps are right around 340. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Under load, and pushed uphill, 375-380 is about where it peaks.

I'll check that idle timing, and see if I'm close to that 14 number. Then I'm gonna call it good...

I have the cam and compression numbers of the original poster in a 2056. Idle is generally smooth. My only problem has been trading fuel ratio with head temps. Needs to be awful rich to stay cool. I will try the timing suggested by Jake.
If I were to do it again I would have used a stock cam.

Btw, where can one obtain a stock grind on a new cam?? Of course auto correct is more interested in seafood and made it clam.

I found that you can run it on the leaner side and still be ok. But, it's a fine balance of timing and fuel

[Frank S]

[/quote]
I have the cam and compression numbers of the original poster in a 2056. Idle is generally smooth. My only problem has been trading fuel ratio with head temps. Needs to be awful rich to stay cool. I will try the timing suggested by Jake.
If I were to do it again I would have used a stock cam.

Here in Germany everybody who knows the 914 well recommends to use nothing else than the stock cam if you want to stay with the D-Jet. Since there are so many conversions out there in the US and since what ever comment I read from Jake (all very valid and professional) I thought I should give it a trial. But if it doesn't work, I can't get my car registered and that a pretty high risk I have to take.

Why have you been happier with the stock cam?

[Bleyseng]

Happier with a stock cam, no. A stock cam engine get max 95-100hp on a great day most don't even come close to that on a dyne.
The Raby cam wakes up the engine to 115-120hp and runs cooler. Yes, it takes time to tune the MPS and get the timing right but big deal. Oh and it idles at 1000rpms and sounds great. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)