Heater blower, Do they really work ? |
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Heater blower, Do they really work ? |
jim_hoyland |
May 14 2015, 06:27 PM
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#1
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,291 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
When the fan is heater fan is on I don't get the feeling ang warm air is getting pushed into the cabin- is this common.
I'm thinking that plugging the HE tubes would keep more hot air moving forward. Anyone else have an idea ? |
mepstein |
May 14 2015, 06:39 PM
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#2
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,271 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
My fan doesn't work but I still get tons of heat into the cabin. Tons.
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TheCabinetmaker |
May 14 2015, 07:04 PM
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#3
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,300 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
Do the fans work? Absolutely! The do what they were designed to do and that is supply heat to the cabin when the car is idling. If you have no heat you might have problems with your system. Loose and rusted tin on the pipes, worn out ducting and hoses or the hoses behind the speakers are crushed
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Bartlett 914 |
May 14 2015, 07:11 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,216 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Is this at idle only? The problem may be missing or stuck flaps at the engine fan housing. They are there to prevent air from the fan from blowing into the engine fan housing at low speeds. This would be the path of least resistance
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Jamie |
May 14 2015, 07:11 PM
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#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,031 Joined: 13-October 04 From: Georgetown,KY Member No.: 2,939 Region Association: South East States |
If all heater components are operating correctly the heat will curl your hair! The real problem is regulating the amount of heat while driving, as the blower motor is either on or off, and no in between settings are available.
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somd914 |
May 14 2015, 07:18 PM
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#6
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Member Group: Members Posts: 1,171 Joined: 21-February 11 From: Southern Maryland Member No.: 12,741 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
If all heater components are operating correctly the heat will curl your hair! The real problem is regulating the amount of heat while driving, as the blower motor is either on or off, and no in between settings are available. True, the blower only has one speed but the flow through the heater control flaps is adjusted via the heater lever. For me I can regulate the amount of heat flowing into the cabin that way - works well in my case. Beats the hell out of the '74 Beetle we had when I was a kid... |
Cuda911 |
May 14 2015, 07:30 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,489 Joined: 20-May 14 From: Oceanside (N. San Diego County), CA Member No.: 17,376 Region Association: Southern California |
As above, tons of heat in both of my cars. Even with the top off, it blows enough hot air that I stay warm even if it's chilly outside.
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jim_hoyland |
May 14 2015, 08:26 PM
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#8
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,291 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
It definitely warms up. Hoses are new and clamped, no crushing behind the speakers; flapper valves are good and open all the way when red lever is pulled back.fan flappers are in place. Too.
To really get decent heat I have to roll the driver side window down 2 - 4 inches; then I feel the hot air being pulled through. I'm wondering if the tubing him the longs is bad. |
mepstein |
May 14 2015, 09:06 PM
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#9
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,271 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
It definitely warms up. Hoses are new and clamped, no crushing behind the speakers; flapper valves are good and open all the way when red lever is pulled back.fan flappers are in place. Too. To really get decent heat I have to roll the driver side window down 2 - 4 inches. Them kids feel the hot air being pull through. I'm wondering if the tubing him the longs is bad. Something is off. Once I'm on the road, I'm turning the heat down. Even in cold weather, max heat becomes an oven. I've never seen a bad heater tubes, even in rusted out cars but shining a light from the engine side or an inspection camera might be usefull. I did shove a flexible vacum hose through my longs and sucked up a bunch of mouse nests. |
bigkensteele |
May 14 2015, 09:26 PM
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#10
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Major Member Group: Members Posts: 2,197 Joined: 30-August 04 From: Cincinnati, OH Member No.: 2,660 Region Association: South East States |
Is it possible that your car is running rich? I noticed a BIG difference between when my car was running lean (hot) and when it was running rich (cool).
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jim_hoyland |
May 14 2015, 09:27 PM
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#11
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,291 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
It definitely warms up. Hoses are new and clamped, no crushing behind the speakers; flapper valves are good and open all the way when red lever is pulled back.fan flappers are in place. Too. To really get decent heat I have to roll the driver side window down 2 - 4 inches. Them kids feel the hot air being pull through. I'm wondering if the tubing him the longs is bad. Something is off. Once I'm on the road, I'm turning the heat down. Even in cold weather, max heat becomes an oven. I've never seen a bad heater tubes, even in rusted out cars but shining a light from the engine side or an inspection camera might be usefull. I did shove a flexible vacum hose through my longs and sucked up a bunch of mouse nests. Are the tubes going into the HE capped, or is your blower still attached ? I will make a try at inspecting the tube in the longs-never can tell... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
mepstein |
May 14 2015, 09:35 PM
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#12
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,271 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
It definitely warms up. Hoses are new and clamped, no crushing behind the speakers; flapper valves are good and open all the way when red lever is pulled back.fan flappers are in place. Too. To really get decent heat I have to roll the driver side window down 2 - 4 inches. Them kids feel the hot air being pull through. I'm wondering if the tubing him the longs is bad. Something is off. Once I'm on the road, I'm turning the heat down. Even in cold weather, max heat becomes an oven. I've never seen a bad heater tubes, even in rusted out cars but shining a light from the engine side or an inspection camera might be usefull. I did shove a flexible vacum hose through my longs and sucked up a bunch of mouse nests. Are the tubes going into the HE capped, or is your blower still attached ? I will make a try at inspecting the tube in the longs-never can tell... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Blower is still attached. Front fan doesn't work either. I will get to it one day. |
rhodyguy |
May 15 2015, 10:08 AM
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#13
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,080 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Jim, try removing the aux fan hoses and covering the j tubes with some 2" rubber pipe caps found in the plumbing department of your fav hardware store. Rather than lowering a window try adjusting the heat/fresh air slider on the dash for a mix of fresh and outside air. Mixed right the heat will still be plenty warm.
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Steve |
May 15 2015, 10:51 AM
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#14
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,585 Joined: 14-June 03 From: Orange County, CA Member No.: 822 Region Association: Southern California |
I move the levers so the heat comes out under the dash and use the fresh air fan for the defrosters. Works great for our California climate. It's been years since the six conversion, but my heater fan did make a big difference at any speed.
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jim_hoyland |
May 15 2015, 11:39 AM
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#15
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,291 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
Jim, try removing the aux fan hoses and covering the j tubes with some 2" rubber pipe caps found in the plumbing department of your fav hardware store. Rather than lowering a window try adjusting the heat/fresh air slider on the dash for a mix of fresh and outside air. Mixed right the heat will still be plenty warm. Thanks, Will try that...seems like it would keep air from moving back toward the eengine bay. I have the caps- (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Gonna hookup my shop vac to the system too. |
BeatNavy |
May 15 2015, 12:01 PM
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#16
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Certified Professional Scapegoat Group: Members Posts: 2,924 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
FWIW, in answer to the OP, I think that maybe the problem is common. Until a month ago when I swapped engines and HE I had a similar experience. Drove all through a fairly harsh winter with a heater and blower motor that SORT OF worked, but I was always in the "this heating system is fairly pathetic" camp even when others, like Curt and mepstein, were telling me it would fry me when working properly. I was skeptical. I tried sealing up my connections and tubes, I used a leaf blower to try to clear out anything that might be stuck in the tubes, and I repeatedly removed the speaker grilles to inspect the hoses. Didn't make too much difference, and during the winter I was constantly putting my hand below the dash trying to figure out whether anything was actually coming out of the outlets.
Last month I put the new engine in with SSI HE's. Once I got the heater tubes/flappers connected, I couldn't believe how much heat came out even when I didn't have a blower fan connected. So now I'm a believer. I don't even really know what changed. My old HE's were pretty rusty. Because of this thread I am going to check to see if I had flappers on the fan outlets on my old 1.7. I wasn't even sure what those were for when I saw them on my new 2.0. That might be the difference in my case. Only other thing I can ask or suggest: have you actually inspected your flapper boxes to see if they are opening by removing them and seeing if the flapper moves properly? I did have one where the bolt in the center broke through the flapper material. I had to put some washers on it so it would work. Otherwise it was stuck in the closed position no matter how much I pulled the heater handle. |
pete000 |
May 15 2015, 12:46 PM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,885 Joined: 23-August 10 From: Bradenton Florida Member No.: 12,094 Region Association: South East States |
My 74 1.8 has the heat on the passenger side blocked from the engine compartment fan. The cap has a 914 part number on it.
They make a duel outlet nozzle for the fan that will blow to both sides which I hear was for severe cold climates. I also hear when using the duel set up you can cook your self ! |
jim_hoyland |
May 15 2015, 02:17 PM
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#18
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,291 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
FWIW, in answer to the OP, I think that maybe the problem is common. Until a month ago when I swapped engines and HE I had a similar experience. Drove all through a fairly harsh winter with a heater and blower motor that SORT OF worked, but I was always in the "this heating system is fairly pathetic" camp even when others, like Curt and mepstein, were telling me it would fry me when working properly. I was skeptical. I tried sealing up my connections and tubes, I used a leaf blower to try to clear out anything that might be stuck in the tubes, and I repeatedly removed the speaker grilles to inspect the hoses. Didn't make too much difference, and during the winter I was constantly putting my hand below the dash trying to figure out whether anything was actually coming out of the outlets. Last month I put the new engine in with SSI HE's. Once I got the heater tubes/flappers connected, I couldn't believe how much heat came out even when I didn't have a blower fan connected. So now I'm a believer. I don't even really know what changed. My old HE's were pretty rusty. Because of this thread I am going to check to see if I had flappers on the fan outlets on my old 1.7. I wasn't even sure what those were for when I saw them on my new 2.0. That might be the difference in my case. Only other thing I can ask or suggest: have you actually inspected your flapper boxes to see if they are opening by removing them and seeing if the flapper moves properly? I did have one where the bolt in the center broke through the flapper material. I had to put some washers on it so it would work. Otherwise it was stuck in the closed position no matter how much I pulled the heater handle. Good information. Yes, I have SS heat exchangers. I'm definitely going to inspect the flapper valve. Years ago I had that center bolt break too. I'll see if my repair still works. Thanks for all the suggestions. |
AndyB |
May 15 2015, 09:22 PM
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#19
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The Governor is watching me Group: Members Posts: 1,115 Joined: 10-April 10 From: Philadelphia New York Member No.: 11,595 Region Association: North East States |
My 74 1.8 has the heat on the passenger side blocked from the engine compartment fan. The cap has a 914 part number on it. They make a duel outlet nozzle for the fan that will blow to both sides which I hear was for severe cold climates. I also hear when using the duel set up you can cook your self ! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I live in that climate. Mine will dry your eyes. Andy |
r_towle |
May 15 2015, 10:08 PM
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#20
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Jim,
If you get a chance to read a 356 manual you will see that opening a window to create the Venturi is actually how you operate the heat in these cars... It may also be in an old vw beetle manual. My blower fan in the engine bay works great, it for when you are idling.. When you start driving or raise the rpms, the fan over powers the blower motor. But...and it's a big but....you need to open the window because the whole system cannot overcome the close pressurized cabin....so when you open the window it all works. |
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