build mild 2.0, need advice on durable 2.0 build Options

[rush]

Need badly some advice on parts to use for fun 2.0 engine build that will have a life expectancy of a few years, not a racing season

[somd914]

What's your budget?

carbs or D-Jet?

There really isn't all that much to be done to 2.0, life expectancy will be quite long. Most increases come through increased displacement, cam, and fuel induction, i.e. carbs or aftermarket FI.

Consider going to 96mm PCs to get up to 2056 cc, and go with flat top pistons. Head work is the big expense these days.

[Mblizzard]

Others may disagree but I think you have to start with changing the stock cam to work with your choice of FI or carbs. I would also spend the money to balance the engine. Go with the 96s, and a good exhaust that flows. If that does not blow the budget then head work.

With those basics you should get a solid engine that will have a solid increase over stock power.

[rush]

Thanks you both, I have had a barn full over the years and due old age, limited $, price of gas, and great wife...who keeps the 'true history' ledger on the checkbook...
So T4 into a left over 911 body...
Gas web 40's with already done 3 bolt heads. Non therm exhaust with good flow.
Mostly I want to figure camshaft to give me decent launch, good passing, and best mpg.
The 911 mid 70's, is mid way between 914 and the bus for weight...so need some torque to get two old folks and a large golden launched...
ps..will balance the fly/crank/fan thanks good advice...take the rods as well?

[rhodyguy]

Welcome to 914 world. What part of the island?

[rush]

Rosario right now. built house then got tired of quality and prices of produce and meat, so are moving to the middle and going to play in the dirt :-)

[somd914]

A Type IV in a 911 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Almost a 912...

For cams you might want to look at:

http://www.webcamshafts.com/index_blank.ht...cle_search.html

I run an 86b in my 2056 with dual webers - though advertised for mid and high RPM power, she pulls out of the hole up to red line.

Also look at:

http://type4store.com/camshaft-kits.html

Great resources here on the World - I'm sure the more experienced engine builders will chime in and offer good advice.

[rush]

Somd, tks and I know opinions among drivers varies. You could hide what I know of cams under a matchbook...so hope to find a ruff idea of lift, duration, exhaust & intake, and the timing of these does. Not a degree, but just a bit smarter. The cam I took out is not worn too badly, but is designed for a FI app...type4store was very nice but had no idea what original cam was...so I couldn't tell if their cam 'X' was the ticket. Webcam were obviously smart, but had no desire to help someone who knew shet about it...
web 86 423 270 234 @50
T4store 435 290 252
pel pts
scat 2 415 278
473 275

...all of these for gas mechanical T4 2.0 ordinary street engines

[Bleyseng]

The OEM cam is the Webcam 142 as that's their stock 2.0L 914 cam grind. Type4store mods the grinds to their own cam grind specs but Webcam does the grinding last I heard but the lifters are ground too to their specs so they have a different face grind to last longer.
A mild carb cam is the way to go with dual carbs or stick FI on it with a FI cam (9590) and it will run great in all weather.

[euro911]

Thanks you both, I have had a barn full over the years and due old age, limited $, price of gas, and great wife...who keeps the 'true history' ledger on the checkbook...
So T4 into a left over 911 body...
Gas web 40's with already done 3 bolt heads. Non therm exhaust with good flow.
Mostly I want to figure camshaft to give me decent launch, good passing, and best mpg.
The 911 mid 70's, is mid way between 914 and the bus for weight...so need some torque to get two old folks and a large golden launched...
ps..will balance the fly/crank/fan thanks good advice...take the rods as well?

Absolutely - have the entire rotating assembly balanced, including your clutch kit. A well balanced motor is imperitive for longevity (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

A stock 2.0L T-4 would be fine and not too expensive to build, especially if you're providing most of the labor. You'd essentially have a 912E.

You'll want to get a cam designed for better breathing running the 40IDFs.

Next step up would be a 2056 and a little more aggressive cam grind, but the price will start climbing rapidly.

Because of the carbs, a new cam and lifters should already be on your list. Also, chromeoly pushrods are a nice simple upgrade that won't break the bank.

[rush]

euro, why change the pushrods?...moving weight...tks steve

[somd914]

euro, why change the pushrods?...moving weight...tks steve

Chromoly pushrods don't expand thus can set them to zero lash.

[rush]

euro, why change the pushrods?...moving weight...tks steve

Chromoly pushrods don't expand thus can set them to zero lash.

In other words, I am less time on my back, with a feeler guage stuck somewhere I cannot see...?
If so where do I get these puppies?

[r_towle]

Elgin Camshafts.

Call and talk to them, tell them what you want to do with the car, the fuel, ignition, heads, exhaust.....

They will steer you right.

[rush]

Elgin Camshafts.

Call and talk to them, tell them what you want to do with the car, the fuel, ignition, heads, exhaust.....

They will steer you right.

thanks will call monday...and where do I get those contact lens?

[euro911]

euro, why change the pushrods?...moving weight...tks steve

Chromoly pushrods don't expand thus can set them to zero lash.

In other words, I am less time on my back, with a feeler guage stuck somewhere I cannot see...?
If so where do I get these puppies?

What's a feeler gauge? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Zero-lash - we don't need no stinkin' feeler gauges

[76-914]

The OEM cam is the Webcam 142 as that's their stock 2.0L 914 cam grind. Type4store mods the grinds to their own cam grind specs but Webcam does the grinding last I heard but the lifters are ground too to their specs so they have a different face grind to last longer.
A mild carb cam is the way to go with dual carbs or stick FI on it with a FI cam (9590) and it will run great in all weather.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If you go this route go the "whole 9 yards" and but the matching valve train kit components (911 rockers milled down w/ sleeved spacers). Peppy as Hell but tunable as mentioned by Bleseng. Keep your CR #'s down too. I'm not a big fan of high compression.

euro, why change the pushrods?...moving weight...tks steve

Chromoly pushrods don't expand thus can set them to zero lash.

In other words, I am less time on my back, with a feeler guage stuck somewhere I cannot see...?
If so where do I get these puppies?

Adjustment intervals are the same. Just won't need the feeler gage.

[rush]

Thanks is there the 'right' ratio for the rockers for a mild motor?
Live on an island, so unless out at the airport, I am paying a third
more for gas and just getting regular shell.. so the 'needy CR's' would
starve here.

[larryM]

#73 webcam,works fine with D-jet
Ed mazula oversize throttle body
euro P&c's
stock rocker arm ratios - don't F with what works
improved oil pump
rebuilt heads - 3-angle valve job & back-cut seats

- ain't cheap

this is a $3500 engine rebuild by the time you are done

add 40 hrs labor at $100 per hour if you are not handy with the wrenches

you will get great midrange boost and seat of pants improvement

- it's a no drama - no hassles engine - and it will run fine on sketchy "island gas"

- i've done several of these -

[Bleyseng]

At Sea level 9 to 1 is no problem with Premium gas which you will have to run with any CR of 8 to 1 or higher.
I get 25mpg with my Djet 2056 engine.