build mild 2.0, need advice on durable 2.0 build Options

[Dave_Darling]

Thanks is there the 'right' ratio for the rockers for a mild motor?

Stock. Which is 1.3 to 1.4; they vary and there has been discussion on this in the past. Other "ratio rockers" are not suitable for a street motor, as they do not get oiled properly for long life. (They are mostly intended for drag motors which only have to live a few 1/4 mile passes before they get refreshed.)

--DD

[rush]

thanks, do I need the swing foot adjuster on the rockers?

I have always run just 30 wt oil in 'air' motors...do I add life with syn or blend or multi weight ?...the neighbor runs bikes and quads...and over the BBQ we were talking lubes....I said I would put it out to the brain trust

Also just got my heads back and shop installed double springs on valves..had them and thought I would like..no charge. Drag race vw buddy said they make the engine work harder so he does not use...any thoughts?

[euro911]

911 swivel-foot adjusters are nice to have, but not required. The real ones can get a bit pricey, have heard of failures with the imitations.


20/50 'dino' seems to be a good all around lube, but you'll find many answers as to which brand and viscosities people prefer. I've always ran Brad Penn 20/50 in my 2056. I run Castrol 20/50 in all my other vehicles.


I don't run double springs. They do place more pressure on the rest of the valve train.

[saigon71]

thanks, do I need the swing foot adjuster on the rockers?

I have always run just 30 wt oil in 'air' motors...do I add life with syn or blend or multi weight ?...the neighbor runs bikes and quads...and over the BBQ we were talking lubes....I said I would put it out to the brain trust

Also just got my heads back and shop installed double springs on valves..had them and thought I would like..no charge. Drag race vw buddy said they make the engine work harder so he does not use...any thoughts?

With regard to your oil question, most run Brad Penn 20w-50.

The key thing to look for is the ingredients in the oil, specifically zinc. It is required on flat tappet camshafts to prevent premature wear.

There are a lot of oil threads on this site, here is one of them:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=191853

[stugray]

I have always run just 30 wt oil in 'air' motors...do I add life with syn or blend or multi weight ?...the neighbor runs bikes and quads...and over the BBQ we were talking lubes....I said I would put it out to the brain trust

If you are made of cash, Brad Penn Racing Oil ("The Green Stuff") or Joe Gibbs racing oil are supposedly the best.
If you do lots of oil changes and dont want to spring for the best, Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (with High ZDDP) is what I use.

Also just got my heads back and shop installed double springs on valves..had them and thought I would like..no charge. Drag race vw buddy said they make the engine work harder so he does not use...any thoughts?

Dual springs will make the drivetrain work harder and will wear the cam & lifters faster.
The only reason I know of for having dual springs is High Revs.
With my stock heads I can only rev to ~5.8k before I can hear the "valve float" while other 914s (with dual springs) at the track can rev to 7k before that happens.

[somd914]

Concur about VR1 20-50, but if you are curious take a look here or google for other tests:

http://bestmotoroil.weebly.com/car-oil-tes...ml#.VVujEGCd6JU

Oil is definitely one of those topics like religion and politics.

My original 2.0 lasted well over 100k on original heads using unleaded most of its life and low zinc oils for a significant portion. Oil consumption was within spec and so was compression, albeit on the low end of the spec, when I swapped engines. Have to believe our Type IVs are more durable than many believe...

[rush]

Thanks for all, am getting a bit smarter with the help and not making the mistakes I would have on my own.

[yeahmag]

Something to consider is that floating the valves is reportedly harder on the valve train than a properly spec'ed valve train along with good oil. With my 86A Raby variant I went with dual valve springs so I can control the valves even if I'm out of the power band. Sometimes it's faster to not take a shift - especially in autocross...

-Aaron

Dual springs will make the drivetrain work harder and will wear the cam & lifters faster.
The only reason I know of for having dual springs is High Revs.
With my stock heads I can only rev to ~5.8k before I can hear the "valve float" while other 914s (with dual springs) at the track can rev to 7k before that happens.

[euro911]

euro, why change the pushrods?...moving weight...tks steve

Chromoly pushrods don't expand thus can set them to zero lash.

In other words, I am less time on my back, with a feeler guage stuck somewhere I cannot see...?
If so where do I get these puppies?

Probably one of the last components to deal with. Once you have the engine together and measuring your geometry, the rods are cut to size and the end caps are pressed into the rods. Available from several vendors - got mine from European Motorworks (EMW) in Hawthorne California.

Note, EMW is one of the major suppliers to a lot of the other major retailers around the country (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[rush]

Thanks, I am getting a bit brighter due to most of you having been down this path...thanks, steve