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> Swapping Out The Control Arms, What to Watch Out For?
Mblizzard
post May 15 2015, 05:14 PM
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Seems pretty simple. Going to read through the Haynes Manual of course. But thought I would ask if anyone has tips? Any special tools? Got new set built up with new bushings, ball joints, new nuts, and turbo tie rods.

Figured I would leave the shocks in place, separate at ball joint, and drop out. Will measure and set the tie rods to get close but figure I would pull the rack to clean up everything.

Will get some ride height measurement and such. Seems too easy!
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914Sixer
post May 15 2015, 06:29 PM
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Soak everything with PB Blaster. Make sure you have the ball joint tool( high torque impact wrench 450 lbs) but you can use a pipe wrench if you have too. You will need THIN 32mm wrench to tighten up turbo tie rods.
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Mblizzard
post May 15 2015, 06:41 PM
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QUOTE(914Sixer @ May 15 2015, 04:29 PM) *

Soak everything with PB Blaster. Make sure you have the ball joint tool( high torque impact wrench 450 lbs) but you can use a pipe wrench if you have too. You will need THIN 32mm wrench to tighten up turbo tie rods.



Pretty sure 32mm is a spanner or 2 above the max size I have. Already have the new ball joints in the replacement arms so what is the ball joint tool I need.

Simple job equals new good and $$$$.
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bdstone914
post May 15 2015, 08:49 PM
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Remerber the foam seals that go on the torsion bars behind the adjuster caps.
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Mblizzard
post May 15 2015, 08:55 PM
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QUOTE(bdstone914 @ May 15 2015, 06:49 PM) *

Remerber the foam seals that go on the torsion bars behind the adjuster caps.


Ok will have to find those! I have not taken the old ones off are they reusable?
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r_towle
post May 15 2015, 10:10 PM
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Watch out for the car falling on your head.
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ConeDodger
post May 15 2015, 10:24 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ May 15 2015, 07:10 PM) *

Watch out for the car falling on your head.


Ha! You made a Gint joke! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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Larmo63
post May 16 2015, 10:01 AM
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Did you watch the Elephant Racing video? He shows the proper angles to set up both ends of the arms where the rubber bushings go. This is important! We just did my whole front (and rear) suspension, it is pretty straightforward. A professional alignment is recommended after you set the ride height you want. That makes all the difference in the world.
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rhodyguy
post May 16 2015, 03:36 PM
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If I'm not too late. Spray the capturing nut repeatedly. I also tap on the circumference with a small finishing hammer. Now fire up the compressor, take your air chisel with one of the notched tips stuck into one of the recesses on the bottom of the nut and have at it in bursts. No success? Spray, tap, chisel, be patient. After you get the nut off put the nut back on finger tight and use the control arm to pull the ball joint out of the strut assembly.
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Mblizzard
post May 16 2015, 06:18 PM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ May 16 2015, 08:01 AM) *

Did you watch the Elephant Racing video? He shows the proper angles to set up both ends of the arms where the rubber bushings go. This is important! We just did my whole front (and rear) suspension, it is pretty straightforward. A professional alignment is recommended after you set the ride height you want. That makes all the difference in the world.


Where is this video?
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altitude411
post May 16 2015, 06:56 PM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85-Enx4bKUE
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Mblizzard
post May 16 2015, 08:34 PM
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QUOTE(altitude411 @ May 16 2015, 04:56 PM) *


Good info. Took the low tech approach and marked the position before removal. Hopefully that will be good enough.
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bdstone914
post May 16 2015, 08:50 PM
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QUOTE(Mblizzard @ May 15 2015, 07:55 PM) *

QUOTE(bdstone914 @ May 15 2015, 06:49 PM) *

Remerber the foam seals that go on the torsion bars behind the adjuster caps.


Ok will have to find those! I have not taken the old ones off are they reusable?



They are a foam seal and turn to mush. Have them new at Pelican for $4.50 each.
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Larmo63
post May 17 2015, 12:33 AM
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An iPhone 6 has a degree meter built into the compass app.

That is what I used, not scientific, but it worked.

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Mblizzard
post May 17 2015, 09:20 AM
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All thanks for the good advice. Got the additional gaskets, also ordered new wedge bolts and nuts. Still have to figure out how to tighten the ball joint nuts to 184 ft/lbs. don't want to buy a $50 socket to use once.

Going to look for the person that was making and selling the tie rod wrenches.

Maybe next weekend to take it apart.
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bdstone914
post May 17 2015, 08:40 PM
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I got a socket meant for Dodge 4 x 4 spindles that i modified to work. I can geyt the part number when i am back at the shop. It has a larger ID but i lined it with nagnetic tape and it works well with an impact. The pelican one is not for use with an impact.
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r_towle
post May 17 2015, 08:53 PM
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Large pipe wrench, done
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john77
post May 18 2015, 05:30 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ May 17 2015, 07:53 PM) *

Large pipe wrench, done


This is good timing, I'm in the process of pulling my control arms to fit new bushings and wanted to get them powdercoated at the same time so I'm gonna need to remove the ball joints.

In all-seriousness, how do you measure torque with a large pipe wrench? I have one, and am considering that route, but with a suspension component that needs so much torque I'm not sure if I trust my arms to calculate correctly so it doesn't unscrew as I'm flying down the freeway (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif).
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Larmo63
post May 18 2015, 05:35 PM
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Ball joints are supposed to be über tight of course, but you do have the lock discs below them as insurance.

A good tire/alignment shop should be able to do them for you off the car also.
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Mblizzard
post May 18 2015, 05:47 PM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ May 18 2015, 03:35 PM) *

Ball joints are supposed to be über tight of course, but you do have the lock discs below them as insurance.

A good tire/alignment shop should be able to do them for you off the car also.


Got all new parts so got the new lock disks as well. I will have to have it aligned of course so I might have the shop tighten then up.
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