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> In place head refresh, head refresh question
tomrev
post May 28 2015, 09:39 AM
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Can't find anything in search; I have a '72 1.7 with one cyl. at zero comp. Appears to be exhaust valve. Because all else is very good, I'm thinking of leaving the drivetrain in place, and removing the head for repair. Have you done this? Am I a dolt to not drop the engine? Appreciate feedback! Tom
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Dave_Darling
post May 28 2015, 09:59 AM
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Yes, you're a dolt for not dropping the engine to do this job. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) It's four big bolts to drop (plus a few other things). I don't think the heads can move out far enough to come off the head studs if you leave the engine in place, so your choices are taking a sawz-all to the suspension pickup points (not recommended) or removing the head studs (also not recommended).

Seriously, though, dropping the engine is not a big deal and working around the chassis/body is a huge deal in this case.

--DD
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toon1
post May 28 2015, 10:04 AM
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Drop the engine!!! You'll be thanking yourself later.

It also gives you a chance to clean everything up.
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Elliot Cannon
post May 28 2015, 11:06 AM
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Drop the engine. Do both heads at the same time. And while you're in there... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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tomrev
post May 28 2015, 11:51 AM
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QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ May 28 2015, 09:06 AM) *

Drop the engine. Do both heads at the same time. And while you're in there... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)



Thanks everybody; makes sense. Back a few decades with my six I could drop it out in about 45 min. I'm just getting lazy. Also, the "while your in there" thinking will be firmly ignored, as I know where that leads, and this is not that kind of car!
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Spoke
post May 28 2015, 02:03 PM
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The only big job I've done without dropping the engine was change the clutch. Trans came out ok and I was able to do everything including replace the flywheel with no trouble.
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somd914
post May 28 2015, 02:53 PM
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QUOTE(Spoke @ May 28 2015, 04:03 PM) *

The only big job I've done without dropping the engine was change the clutch. Trans came out ok and I was able to do everything including replace the flywheel with no trouble.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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Cairo94507
post May 28 2015, 03:57 PM
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Come on now..... once you get the engine out it is the perfect time to degrease and clean the engine bay. Then spruce it up with some color. Be sure to check the battery box, long, firewall, suspension mounting points, OH, I see where this is headed! At least clean the engine up and power wash the engine bay (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) .
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stugray
post May 28 2015, 04:07 PM
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Once you start cleaning it goes downhill from there RAPIDLY!

Just one more screw & I can get behind that next piece! ..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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toon1
post May 28 2015, 04:16 PM
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QUOTE(stugray @ May 28 2015, 03:07 PM) *

Once you start cleaning it goes downhill from there RAPIDLY!

Just one more screw & I can get behind that next piece! ..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)


Yep!...next thing you know the car is on jack stands for 6 months
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worn
post May 28 2015, 04:50 PM
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QUOTE(tomrev @ May 28 2015, 08:39 AM) *

Can't find anything in search; I have a '72 1.7 with one cyl. at zero comp. Appears to be exhaust valve. Because all else is very good, I'm thinking of leaving the drivetrain in place, and removing the head for repair. Have you done this? Am I a dolt to not drop the engine? Appreciate feedback! Tom


Someone reported doing it about a year ago here. May be hard to find the thread. They were trying to get to a con rod bearing.

And yes, even though they pulled it off they would have been far far better off dropping the engine. Put it another way. The only way to even think about this would be with the car on a lift so you have plenty of room to get to the tight spots. Once you have it on the lift it is nuts not to drop the engine. I won't call it easy cause I have only done it once. But it wasn't nearly as hard as replacing an oil pump with engine in. Easier than an alternator swap. or just about.

Then you are almost certain to pull both heads and do the whole top end. But why go to all that work, button it up and then find out you have to.

How many miles? Bearings good with good oil pressure? My strategy was build another engine first and then I had something to swap in without the jack stand wait.
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