2056 microsquirt, Its alive! Now I have to tune it Options

[peteyd]

A few more months, and I'll just take a nice drive out your way to lend a hand. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I feel like it could become a winter project.

I just bought a house and my wife is expecting in January. I dont think I will have much free time pretty soon.

When are you going to be settled Mark?

[McMark]

A few more months, and I'll just take a nice drive out your way to lend a hand. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I feel like it could become a winter project.

I just bought a house and my wife is expecting in January. I dont think I will have much free time pretty soon.

When are you going to be settled Mark?

Probably late Sept. I have a friend looking at some shop space tomorrow, so I may have a lease signed by the end of the week. Then we can officially start moving the stuff that we know we won't need anymore out here.

[Michelj13]

The project will be waiting for you when you are ready. I was in the same situation a couple of years ago. I needed to move, and had too much to do for about a 18 months. During this time, I tough a lot about my MS project and changes that I wanted to make.

I like the kit you got from Mark. It really simplifies things and makes it much easier with ready made harness and really cool coil bracket. I really struggled with mounting mine. I Installed the 36-1 wheel the other way than you did, hence my zero timing is at 61 degrees. I think isn't it that way because it was more centered over the sensor. It works fine either way though.

The microsquirt is a good choice too. Small size, nice connector, nice logic level outputs for the ls coils. In my case, going the LS2 coil route was the best decisions. My USB communication has been SOLID ever since.

Knowing what I know now, I would not use the MS relay board and would wire as much as i could directly and use the car's OE relays for fuel pump, ECU power, etc.

It's really amazing how well the Megasquirt system works!

I'm already thinking about my next MS project ( a 924 with 1.8t engine swap running MS 3)

Good luck with house and baby!

[peteyd]

yipee! Im pumped now!

Last night my buddy Brian and I started to trouble shoot my connection issue. We decided it was easiest to remove the harness from the engine and disconnect all the connectors. We then hooked up power to the ECU and grounded it properly and connected to tuner studio. This worked fine, eliminating the possibility that something had gone wrong with the ECU. Next we put it back on the engine and powered it and grounded it. Still worked. We then started to hook up various connections until we lost a connection. We lost the connection when we hooked up the o2 sensor. So we thought that this was the problem. We then hooked up the remaining connectors, but then we started loosing the connection again! Keep in mind Im not the most electrically incline. As we were connecting and disconnection power to the ECU, Brian noticed that the fuel pump was turning on and off in conjunction. He figured out that I was powering the ECU through the fuel pump and this is where my problems were coming from. As we were connecting more sensors it was putting more of a drain on the power source and it wasn't holding a connection because the power wasn't consistent. We fixed that problem and gave the ECU a direct power source, then connected all the sensors again. Problem fixed!

We were then able to check all the coils and injectors which were now working properly. We checked the trigger wheel which worked properly after changing from rising edge to falling edge(or vis/versa I can't recall now). It was then time to try and fire the engine. It was only puffing and coughing, so we figured the timing was off. We had a starting point of 295 degrees, but that obviously wasnt working out. That is where I am at right now.

I now see that Michelj13 is stating that his zero timing is at 61 degrees, so that is what I will try today and see if she fires!

Wish me luck

[McMark]

Awesome!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif)

[ConeDodger]

yipee! Im pumped now!

Last night my buddy Brian and I started to trouble shoot my connection issue. We decided it was easiest to remove the harness from the engine and disconnect all the connectors. We then hooked up power to the ECU and grounded it properly and connected to tuner studio. This worked fine, eliminating the possibility that something had gone wrong with the ECU. Next we put it back on the engine and powered it and grounded it. Still worked. We then started to hook up various connections until we lost a connection. We lost the connection when we hooked up the o2 sensor. So we thought that this was the problem. We then hooked up the remaining connectors, but then we started loosing the connection again! Keep in mind Im not the most electrically incline. As we were connecting and disconnection power to the ECU, Brian noticed that the fuel pump was turning on and off in conjunction. He figured out that I was powering the ECU through the fuel pump and this is where my problems were coming from. As we were connecting more sensors it was putting more of a drain on the power source and it wasn't holding a connection because the power wasn't consistent. We fixed that problem and gave the ECU a direct power source, then connected all the sensors again. Problem fixed!

We were then able to check all the coils and injectors which were now working properly. We checked the trigger wheel which worked properly after changing from rising edge to falling edge(or vis/versa I can't recall now). It was then time to try and fire the engine. It was only puffing and coughing, so we figured the timing was off. We had a starting point of 295 degrees, but that obviously wasnt working out. That is where I am at right now.

I now see that Michelj13 is stating that his zero timing is at 61 degrees, so that is what I will try today and see if she fires!

Wish me luck

Luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Ian Stott]

Hey Peter! Have been following this with great interest, I have a 2056 as well, LN Engineering heads, Raby Cam Kit, etc. presently just over 4000, miles on new engine and unfortunately does not run very well. i think the big question for me is; once you have this set up and working properly is it pretty maintenance free? Would love to take the teener on a cross country trip but need to feel good about reliability. I'm parked right now which is a real bummer as the weather is finally nice!

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada

[peteyd]

Hey Peter! Have been following this with great interest, I have a 2056 as well, LN Engineering heads, Raby Cam Kit, etc. presently just over 4000, miles on new engine and unfortunately does not run very well. i think the big question for me is; once you have this set up and working properly is it pretty maintenance free? Would love to take the teener on a cross country trip but need to feel good about reliability. I'm parked right now which is a real bummer as the weather is finally nice!

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada

Ian,

This setup, once I get it running and fine tuned, should never have to be touched again. I am doing this setup because I was never happy with my carb setup either(or are you running your original efi still?) I will be able to have different tunes for different levels of octane as well. You should seriously consider one of these setups. Although Mark will be in a transition phase very shortly, so it might be a little while before he gets back to normal business in Michigan.

Pete

[peteyd]

I have finally got my car running and driving!

It all started last summer. I dropped my car off at McMarks shop (Original Customs) so he could work out the problems I was having. Long story short, is that his supplier sent him the incorrect injectors. So after that was figured out, the car was running in no time. While it was there, Mark tidied up some loose ends that were bothering me.

Once I got it home in the fall, I was able to take it out a few times and continue to tune it. But, the last time I was out I blew the alt belt and had to get a tow home from my wife. The car sat in my garage most of the winter untouched until I started tinkering again this spring.

At that point I had an aftermarket alt on the engine because I was having trouble getting my original alt to excite and charge. I bought about 6 belts trying to get one to fit perfect but I just didn't have enough adjustment to get the belt tight. I burnt through another belt, and at that point I decided to put back my original alt. At this point I had learned that my wiring harness was missing a diode behind the fuel gauge which was causing my original alt not to excite in the first place. So back with the original, and now that problem is sorted the belt is good, and alt is charging.

I have since installed an idle control valve as well.



I wired the ICV as per the microsquirt wiring diagram(pin #7). Also take note, that this is a 3 wire valve and therefore I needed a 50 watt, 40ohm resistor.



I then machined an aluminum block, countersunk the bolt holes, recessed a rubber oring, tapped 3/8 NPT and added a barbed hose fitting.



Here is my resistor mounted on a brass plate.



I then mounted my ICV to a bracket I fabbed up. Tapped some holes into my fan shroud and mounted it.

[rudedude]

Pete, Any further updates? Would love to hear its working well and and force me to do the same.

[peteyd]

@rudedude

My car is running great! It fires up everytime and then idles beautifully with the idle control valve installed.

What I love, is that this system gives me confidence and security. It will fire up whenever I need it, and there is a bunch of safety features. I have my rev limiter set to a certain rpm, so if my accelerator cable catches of somehow my throttle gets stuck, the ecu wont let it over rev.

Pete

[rudedude]

Really glad to hear this. I have started to accumulate pieces to do this but still have many questions. I should probably start a new thread. Goal is to have driving by the time the snow melts. Thanks for update.

[Superhawk996]

This is an awesome post. I'll bookmark for future since I'm considering a MicroSquirt.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

I have a friend that has successfully used it on a non-Porsche. I trolled the MegaSquirt web site to see if anyone has posted 914 calibrations but didn't find much that wasn't a big bore or something heavily modified.

Would you be willing to share your cal as a baseline?

If I do it, I suspect that I'd modify a Weber Carb body to accept a fuel injector in each bore. I really like the look and intake sound of Dual Carbs but would like to get FI for tuning reasons.

I used to be anti Air Conditioning and anti-FI. Then I bought a Miata in the 90's and saw the light.

[VaccaRabite]

This is an awesome post. I'll bookmark for future since I'm considering a MicroSquirt.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

I have a friend that has successfully used it on a non-Porsche. I trolled the MegaSquirt web site to see if anyone has posted 914 calibrations but didn't find much that wasn't a big bore or something heavily modified.

Would you be willing to share your cal as a baseline?

If I do it, I suspect that I'd modify a Weber Carb body to accept a fuel injector in each bore. I really like the look and intake sound of Dual Carbs but would like to get FI for tuning reasons.

I used to be anti Air Conditioning and anti-FI. Then I bought a Miata in the 90's and saw the light.

You could do that, but you don't really want to. Not really.
MS works primarily through measuring vacuum. As such, you want a source of steady vacuum (such as a plenum). You don't get that with ITBs. Lumpier cams only make this issue worse, so you would be stuck working with a mild stock cam. You can make MS work, but its not as simple.

Added to that, my experience has been that you NEED an Idle Control Valve (ICV). You will have a hard time adding that to your modified carb setup. An air bypass screw will only get you so far, and you could end up with an atrocious idle when the car is warm, or a car that won't start when cold.

Zach

[913B]

I have finally got my car running and driving!

It all started last summer. I dropped my car off at McMarks shop (Original Customs) so he could work out the problems I was having. Long story short, is that his supplier sent him the incorrect injectors. So after that was figured out, the car was running in no time. While it was there, Mark tidied up some loose ends that were bothering me.

Once I got it home in the fall, I was able to take it out a few times and continue to tune it. But, the last time I was out I blew the alt belt and had to get a tow home from my wife. The car sat in my garage most of the winter untouched until I started tinkering again this spring.

At that point I had an aftermarket alt on the engine because I was having trouble getting my original alt to excite and charge. I bought about 6 belts trying to get one to fit perfect but I just didn't have enough adjustment to get the belt tight. I burnt through another belt, and at that point I decided to put back my original alt. At this point I had learned that my wiring harness was missing a diode behind the fuel gauge which was causing my original alt not to excite in the first place. So back with the original, and now that problem is sorted the belt is good, and alt is charging.

I have since installed an idle control valve as well.



I wired the ICV as per the microsquirt wiring diagram(pin #7). Also take note, that this is a 3 wire valve and therefore I needed a 50 watt, 40ohm resistor.



I then machined an aluminum block, countersunk the bolt holes, recessed a rubber oring, tapped 3/8 NPT and added a barbed hose fitting.



Here is my resistor mounted on a brass plate.



I then mounted my ICV to a bracket I fabbed up. Tapped some holes into my fan shroud and mounted it.

@peteyd
I am going down the MS route and just purchased the resistor in your post.
I have this IAC, it's some generic VW piece I picked up on eBay.
I think I need the resistor too ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Is mounting that resistor on a heat sink or brass plate needed in hindsight?

Thanks in advance.

[peteyd]

@913B

In hind sight, the brass mounting plate was maybe overkill for the heat sink. I cant remember 100% why I did it this way. Probably because I had the material laying around, brass is easy to drill and tap and then it does have the benefit of being a heat sink.

The brass on the resistor itself should be sufficient enough to take the heat.

Pete