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> 2056 Build, Just starting teardown; some questions
Spoke
post Jul 11 2015, 07:06 PM
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Jerry
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The gentleman I bought the cored case from came through with a nice clean 2L case which was checked for bore alignment.


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Spoke
post Jul 11 2015, 07:19 PM
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Time for a little detour...

So now I have 2 good cases; internals from 2 engines; one with 96mm pistons; A set of weber dual carbs; a complete D-JET setup including an MPS which holds vacuum.

The detour is I will leave the P/C on the 2nd engine; clean it up; reassemble and see if/how it runs with the carbs. If this engine runs well, I'll dump it in my 914 and use the cleaned case and other internals to take my time and build a 2056 DJET engine.

Here's the current state of the 2nd engine. Degreased the case, cylinders and heads. Reinstalled the heads with new sealing rings. Reinstalled pushrods and pushrod tubes with new o-rings, and adjusted the valves.

Next up is to clean the bottom of the engine, put the oil temp sender from the first engine on this one, put it back together with the carbs and fire it up. If it runs ok I'll put it in the car and work on the other engine at my leisure.


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Montreal914
post Jul 11 2015, 07:42 PM
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Sounds like a good intermediary plan. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Anything to keep your car off the jack stands is good as they tend to get comfortable up there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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Han Solo
post Jul 11 2015, 08:20 PM
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Larger intake valves than 2.0L OEM heads?
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Spoke
post Jul 17 2015, 11:10 PM
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QUOTE(Han Solo @ Jul 11 2015, 10:20 PM) *

Larger intake valves than 2.0L OEM heads?


Can't tell if they're different. I didn't measure them before reassembly.

Here's a question about the taco plate o-ring: Do I install dry, lube with oil, RTV, gasket sealant?



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barefoot
post Jul 18 2015, 06:31 AM
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Unless you're SURE the exhaust valves are new, don't re-use them. The old sodium filled exhaust valves are a time bomb.
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This one fell apart as I was pulling them from my 2L heads.
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Java2570
post Jul 18 2015, 06:35 AM
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I used a little Curil K2 on the o ring and also on the gasket surfaces....I'm still in building process so don't know the results of sealing yet. I think on my other engine, I used only oil on the o ring and some forgotten sealer(maybe K2) on the gasket. It didn't ever leak....
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Spoke
post Sep 8 2015, 10:45 AM
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I put the engine back together and got it running this weekend.

Since I didn't know if there were serious issues with the engine (was told it was running at some time), I reinstalled the carbs without adjusting or rebuild, original rotor and cap (it has Pertronix), wires, plugs, timing was as it was when I got the engine.

I purchased a low pressure Mr. Gasket #42S pump and used a generic radiator overflow tank for a gas tank.

12V comes from my 914 using jumper cables. Engine started right up and idles well. Seems to rev pretty well. No oil leaks to speak of.

Questions:
How do I time a carb'ed 2056?

Cylinder #3 occasionally backfirst through the throttle body. What could be causing this?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOC3oVgZlCM
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stugray
post Sep 8 2015, 01:01 PM
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QUOTE(Spoke @ Sep 8 2015, 10:45 AM) *

Questions:
How do I time a carb'ed 2056?


Use the TDC mark on the FW thru the access hole in the top of the trans.
With an adjustable timing light, set it to ~30 deg and set it at 3500 RPM.
Your actual timing will vary based on various things (altitude, CR, gas, etc)

QUOTE(Spoke @ Sep 8 2015, 10:45 AM) *

Cylinder #3 occasionally backfirst through the throttle body. What could be causing this?



First things to check: Any intake leaks? Check the jets for clogs (main, idle, & accel pump).
Clean out the carb bores in case any of the holes in the side of the barrels are clogged (the ones that get exposed as the throttle plate opens)
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