Rotary 914!, 200whp ; Prepping for Okteenerfest |
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Rotary 914!, 200whp ; Prepping for Okteenerfest |
gabeurgelles |
Jun 11 2015, 07:01 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 70 Joined: 2-February 15 From: Miami Member No.: 18,389 Region Association: None |
I recently purchased a 73' 914 with a Mazda 13b already swapped into it. I am the second owner of the car, previous owner was from Arizona. It has NO RUST at all and the swap was done properly. The motor mount and radiator frame were both very well done. As well as the plumbing from the radiator to the engine. The car also has an interesting exhaust system, which I found out although it looked cool, was not the right type of exhaust for the rotary. The passenger side rear brake caliper bleeder was broken. The swap was never completed and the car never drove under rotary power. The only thing left was fabricating a new shift linkage, since the old one would go right through the oil pan.
I bought the car purely for the condition of the body and wasnt really counting on a good engine or transmission but after messing around with it in the garage I got it running. I discovered the engine was streetported and in decent condition. The engine only had hours on it from the rebuild but it suffered from sitting for all that time. |
gabeurgelles |
Feb 6 2016, 08:01 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 70 Joined: 2-February 15 From: Miami Member No.: 18,389 Region Association: None |
Well, the engine came out again and this time it took longer than expected. Pulled the engine out to finally eliminate the smoking on idle due to worn oil control rings and oil control ring springs. Once apart I realized that I should just replace everything on the motor that would give me any problems in the near future. After taking them to a very knowledgable rotary engine builder in my area, I was told that I needed new rotor housings! Definitely not an expected cost. Old school housings put me back almost $1,000. While newer generation housings were only about $300. The difference between the housings being that there is a groove cut in old school housings for the water jacket seals while newer ones have grooves on the intermediate plates. Now I could probably find a complete 86+ engine for just over 1k but the old school (Pre-85) make the most power and are built better. So I just had to keep my old school, now the issue was how to make newer housings without a groove work. There IS one guy in all of south florida that can cut grooves into the newer housings but he charges $400 per side. Two sides per rotor, two rotors per engine... Basically not worth it, so I found a way to do it myself.
I made a template of the seal groove and used that to make a router template. After 5 discouraging attempts I pulled the trigger and purchased some very good condition housings and cut some grooves into them. They came out PERFECT and I was ready to assemble. Then came the idea to port the engine even further. The port timing was already maxed out for a street engine but the runner could have been bigger, so I maxed those out too! Before this rebuild I took the car, not tuned or in perfect time, to the dyno. Made 165 whp and around 117 lb/ft with an a/f mixture under 10 (extremely rich). This was before the bigger ports, and once I get the mixture down and the timing correct I was told I can expect between 220-230 whp naturally aspirated. As of today the engine is back together and in the car and broken in. I am in the re-tuning stages, trying to dial in the carburetion. The plan is to eventually ditch the Holley and go to a 48 DCOE Weber as I was told that this combo is amazing for the street/autox. Looking forward to some autocross within the next couple months and maybe even some HPDE and Homestead Speedway or Palm Beach. |
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