100 mile trip, a few niggles - your opinion please/ Options

[thieuster]

After two more or less shorter runs last week and Monday evening, I took the car out for a longer trip. I started at 5:30AM and went for a 100 mile round trip to the north and back home again. Great trip! And the speed makes the car very quiet! (contradictio? no!) The noise of the engine is 'pulled' away from the cabin by the air flowing over the car. Something I'd never experienced before, driving British classics with a lumpy straight engine in front of your knees!

Overall, the car runs beautifully. Two small niggles though. (Well, what else can you expect from a car that's been stored for 17 yrs?).

First, when revving the car, it pulls great. But at the steady coast of 2200 rpm, the car tends to 'shake' a little, as if it's running a little too lean. Throttle Position Sensor or... simply a little too lean? What can I expect.

Second, the indicator relay. I was under the impression that it was located at the back of the fuse box, under the dash. But I couldn't find it there. So I turned on the ignition and used the column stalk to trace the sound of the relay... There it was, way up behind the dash, close to the back of the gauges. I couldn't reach it from the 'footwell position'. So, I'm wondering: would it be easier to remove the gauge cluster from the dash?

Funny thing is, when I pull the hazard switch, the light inside the switch blinks and 'clicks', however, there's nothing to see on the dash: no green lights. I was under the impression that both (hazard and indicator) are linked! Or has that to do with the fact that my car is a Euro Spec car?

What's your opnion / experience with the matters mentioned above?

Menno

[era vulgaris]

Are you saying that your rpm for extended cruising is 2200? That's a good way to cook the heads. You really need to be in the 3K range to keep the cooling fan spinning fast enough to cool the engine, and preferably over 3500 rpm if you're in 5th gear. I tend not to shift into 5th until I can maintain rpm speeds closer to 4K. If you're used to driving water-cooled cars, you need to drive air-cooled cars at a higher rpm.

[thieuster]

Are you saying that your rpm for extended cruising is 2200? That's a good way to cook the heads. You really need to be in the 3K range to keep the cooling fan spinning fast enough to cool the engine, and preferably over 3500 rpm if you're in 5th gear. I tend not to shift into 5th until I can maintain rpm speeds closer to 4K. If you're used to driving water-cooled cars, you need to drive air-cooled cars at a higher rpm.

That's something I hadn't thought about! Thanks for this essential heads up! I'll change my 'modus operandi'! - And it sounds better too, I have to admit

Menno

[TheCabinetmaker]

I agree totally. I never drive my car under 3Krpm. I had a car that I took care of and the owner told me he never let the car go over 3k. He rode in my car one day and freaked out when I pushed it to 4500. That is when i realized why my tune ups went south so quickly.

[scott_in_nh]

Above 2000 rpm when you completely let off the throttle fuel to the engine is cut.
At 2000 rpm fuel is added again and the engine "re-starts".

You can feel it "kick in" at 2000 RPM if you start at 3000 and just let off and let the engine slow.

When you are cruising with a very light touch on the throttle you may be at a point on the TPS where the control module believes you are in the idle position and it oscillates between adding fuel and not adding fuel because of the RPM.

A slight tweak to the TPS may help, driving at a different RPM will definitely help.

Now if it happens at other RPM away from 2000, then it is a lean stumble and you probably need to turn the center screw of the MPS out in very small increments until it goes away.

[DRPHIL914]

Above 2000 rpm when you completely let off the throttle fuel to the engine is cut.
At 2000 rpm fuel is added again and the engine "re-starts".

You can feel it "kick in" at 2000 RPM if you start at 3000 and just let off and let the engine slow.

When you are cruising with a very light touch on the throttle you may be at a point on the TPS where the control module believes you are in the idle position and it oscillates between adding fuel and not adding fuel because of the RPM.

A slight tweak to the TPS may help, driving at a different RPM will definitely help.

Now if it happens at other RPM away from 2000, then it is a lean stumble and you probably need to turn the center screw of the MPS out in very small increments until it goes away.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) this is what really cleared up my issue- stock setting of the mps was just too lean and my wide band meter was showing this issue that i could not i.d. before it was installed, but has since been corrected by making this very slight adjustment.

[McMark]

The hazard switch can cause all sorts of turn signal light issues. All the turn signal wires pass through the hazard switch, on or off. A poor, corroded connection inside the hazard can keep turn signals from working. I'm ordering a new VW unit for a 72 bug and seeing how that works.

Also, replacing all your dash bulbs will really brighten things up. As will cleaning the grounds for the gauges and the ground lug under the dash. Remove the fuse panel to access the ground and to get the flasher unit. The fuse panel drops with just two screws and then you can reach up and grab the 'black box' that's sitting loose behind the switches.

You should really update your signature with you car year /engine info. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[whitetwinturbo]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) It's nice to see a picture of your sled...........

[thieuster]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) It's nice to see a picture of your sled...........

You should really update your signature with you car year /engine info. wink.gif

Done & done.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i211.photobucket.com-18384-1434554513.1.jpg)

Since the paintwork looks good from a 20ft distance, I've decided to take off the hub caps. It gives the car a more or less Outlaw, aggressive-ish look. Not pretending to be the prettiest car on the supermarket's parking lot. I'll take a pic of that too.

[Spoke]

You say the turnsignal dash indicators do not light for the 4-way flashers. Do the indicators work for L and R turnsignals?

If they are not working either both bulbs are burned out or the K terminal on your flasher is no longer functioning. The K terminal senses the current in the turnsignal bulbs; If the lamp current is low (brake warning light on), the dash indicators will not flash. If the lamp current is high (L/R turnsignals on), the dash indicators will flash.

The K terminal has a tendency not to function correctly after 40 years. You can remedy this by disconnecting the common wire from the K terminal to the dash indicators and connecting the common connection of the dash indicators directly to ground. Ground is found on one of the terminals of the tach.

[Dave_Darling]

Double-check that left-rear tire. It looks like there is a crease in the sidewall; that may be a symptom of a serious problem of some sort!

--DD

[thieuster]

Double-check that left-rear tire. It looks like there is a crease in the sidewall; that may be a symptom of a serious problem of some sort!

--DD

Thanks for your concern. It's very reassuring to know that someone on the other side of the world is taking this serious and finds the time to point me to this!

Since the pic was taken, all tires are replaced for brand new 165/80 15 Vredesteins!

Menno

[McMark]

Since the paintwork looks good from a 20ft distance, I've decided to take off the hub caps. It gives the car a more or less Outlaw, aggressive-ish look. Not pretending to be the prettiest car on the supermarket's parking lot. I'll take a pic of that too.

Take off the hubcaps!?! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yikes.gif)

That thing looks original and HOT to me! Very very very few people run hubcaps. Dare to be different.

[Spoke]

Looks better with the hub caps unless you black out the rims.

[AlanG]

You say the turnsignal dash indicators do not light for the 4-way flashers. Do the indicators work for L and R turnsignals?

If they are not working either both bulbs are burned out or the K terminal on your flasher is no longer functioning. The K terminal senses the current in the turnsignal bulbs; If the lamp current is low (brake warning light on), the dash indicators will not flash. If the lamp current is high (L/R turnsignals on), the dash indicators will flash.

The K terminal has a tendency not to function correctly after 40 years. You can remedy this by disconnecting the common wire from the K terminal to the dash indicators and connecting the common connection of the dash indicators directly to ground. Ground is found on one of the terminals of the tach.

This is an interesting discussion on turn signals and hazards (4-ways). I do not (and have not ... knock on wood) have any electrical problems with my '72. That being said, when I turn on the hazards, the knob flashes, the emergency brake light flashes and the outer turn signals flash. I've only had the car for 5 years but that is "normal" to me.

[ConeDodger]

Hubcaps! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[era vulgaris]

Keep the hubcaps. The outlaw thing only looks good with wide 5's to me. For some reason it doesn't look as cool with 4's. But maybe that's just me.

[malcolm2]

Are you saying that your rpm for extended cruising is 2200? That's a good way to cook the heads. You really need to be in the 3K range to keep the cooling fan spinning fast enough to cool the engine, and preferably over 3500 rpm if you're in 5th gear. I tend not to shift into 5th until I can maintain rpm speeds closer to 4K. If you're used to driving water-cooled cars, you need to drive air-cooled cars at a higher rpm.

MORE ON THE RPM DISCUSSION

I started a thread a couple years back. Got some good info, similar to what has been said.

MY THREAD

I might also add: I remember that my car shuttered a bit at certain speeds. Tires can do that. Kind of a harmonic thing. I could feel the shutter and it would stay shuttering 'til I changed speed. Got new tires and it all went away. I needed new tires. But maybe yours is a re-balance thing, if you don't need new ones.