Relay board to starter Options

[last337]

First off this is a '73 model.

I have been going over the wiring diagram for harness plug going from relay board to starter. I pulled the plug apart and for some reason the #6 post (yellow) is cut going into loom and there is no slip connector inside the plug. Now I know I didnt remove that connector from inside the plug but I cant recall if that yellow wire going into the loom (that goes to 50 side of starter) was cut when the tin/starter/etc was all removed. I checked voltage for that post on the plug and get .45v with key in on position and only slightly higher .50v in start position. I dont have a current meter so I cant tell what the amps are at each key position. Looking at the actual post itself it appears someone at one time soldered to post #6 (see pic) but there is nothing there now. I really wish I could recall what it looked like before but that was 2 years ago and I dont even know if I was the one that pulled those connectors off.

Is it possible that there is another post/spot that could have been used to fire the starter? What should I check to ensure that post #6 is doing what it should do when key is turned to 'start' position? I have been going all through the diagrams but just cant imagine how else the starter would engage.

[last337]

I was just looking at options for starter and found the Bosch hot starter kit. I dont recall seeing that when things came apart but is that possibly what I am looking at here?

[Shadowfax]

Not sure if the '73 model has it, but have you checked underneath the passenger seat for the seatbelt interlock relay? Regardless, I would definitely hook up the yellow wire to the #6 post on the 12-pin connector. What's the 14-pin connector look like? I can't tell from the pic sorry.

[last337]

Not sure if the '73 model has it, but have you checked underneath the passenger seat for the seatbelt interlock relay? Regardless, I would definitely hook up the yellow wire to the #6 post on the 12-pin connector. What's the 14-pin connector look like? I can't tell from the pic sorry.

The 14-pin is in good shape and most everything that comes off of it seems to work fine with exception of fuel pump.

I am not familiar with the seatbelt interlock relay. What does that do? Would that possibly cause the other problem I am having with the fuel pump? It seems that in 'on' position the power from fuel pump doesnt come on from post 13/14.

[SLITS]

It prevents the car from starting unless the seat belt is on.

Two big yellow/w red, as I remember, go to a relay setup under the passenger seat. To defeat the interlock, you remove the two big wires and join them together.

[last337]

It prevents the car from starting unless the seat belt is on.

Two big yellow/w red, as I remember, go to a relay setup under the passenger seat. To defeat the interlock, you remove the two big wires and join them together.

There isnt much of anything under the seats really. The interior has been pulled out more than once by PO's and now there is just rats nest of stuff with exception of wiring going through tunnel. Any pics of what Id be looking for?

[Shadowfax]

From Jeff Bowlsby's site: http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_SeatbeltRelayBypass.jpg

Look here for schematic: http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Elect_R...ltInterlock.jpg

[last337]

From Jeff Bowlsby's site: http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_SeatbeltRelayBypass.jpg

Look here for schematic: http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Elect_R...ltInterlock.jpg

I can safely say that there is nothing at all like that under the passenger seat. How can I test whether that is causing the problem? I am fairly good with voltmeter but this stuff is really at the limit of my knowledge. I can take pics of what is in/out of tunnel under console and post them. When key is in 'on' position I do get lights, signals, wipers, etc. This thing is such a rats nest ugh!

With regard to reconnecting post #6 to yellow to starter, where can I get those post slip connectors? Or should I just solder it on? Id love to get another plastic connector if anyone knows where those are as well.

[Shadowfax]

You may need to source a wiring harness. In the meantime, try connecting a remote starter switch. You can bypass the relay board and start it like that until you get the wiring sorted.

[JeffBowlsby]

Guys....OP said he has a 1973. 1973 cars don't have the seatbelt interlock relay.

The big yellow wire needs to connect to the #6 terminal and the big red wire connects to the big post on the starter (along with the battery+ cable). Hard to understand why anyone would cut that terminal off. Crazy.

No need to make things worse by rigging a soldered connection to the relay board. Get another harness that is correct. Do it all correctly and avoid a comedy of errors.

I would start by cleaning things up, including all electrical connections with a brass brush and verifying the fuses on the relay board and their continuity...they look questionable. One is the main power fuse and is important.

[last337]

Well I pulled the whole relay board today and when I pulled the 14 pin connector, upon closer inspection I realize what was done although I am curious how/why/what was going on in PO's mind when they did this. I looked at the 14 pin connector and the yellow wire going into relay board there was cut as well and it looks like that was then connected directly to the yellow wire going to the starter (the one that should be coming from 12 pin connector).

Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like that wire going into 14 pin comes from ignition but I am just curious what is happening when it passes through relay board or what is not happening when it bypasses it like they did here. From the relay board diagram it looks like a straight pass through the board which then goes onto fuel injection stuff which I dont need (carbs). Should I put an in-line fuse if I splice them back together? If so, what size?