Brake master cylinder woes |
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Brake master cylinder woes |
jmargush |
Jun 22 2015, 08:30 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 458 Joined: 8-June 04 From: Goshen, IN Member No.: 2,176 |
I put a new 19mm master cylinder from PMB on my car within the last two years.
The pedal had been getting a little more travel in it over the past week or two. Yesterday at the Autox the pedal got enough travel that it tripped the warning light on. Does this point to a failed master cylinder? If I pump the pedal it will build pressure and reduce travel. after this is done it doesn't seem to drift to the floor with continued pressure. I bought from PMB because I learned form Eric that the ones you by at FLAPS don't have the correct material in the seals and that a new one should last years. |
Dave_Darling |
Jun 22 2015, 08:56 AM
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#2
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,981 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
It means you have air getting into your system. Could be from the master cylinder, could be from the calipers, could be from the lines. Time to start going over the system carefully, looking for leaks.
--DD |
screenguy914 |
Jun 22 2015, 11:27 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 249 Joined: 6-July 09 From: So. Cal Member No.: 10,540 Region Association: Southern California |
Discounting any external leakage, increased pedal travel during braking usually indicates an internal leak in the MC.
However, increased pedal travel during heavy braking (autoX use) usually points to boiling fluid and thus increasing pedal travel and softness. Sherwood |
worn |
Jun 22 2015, 11:52 AM
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#4
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,147 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I put a new 19mm master cylinder from PMB on my car within the last two years. The pedal had been getting a little more travel in it over the past week or two. Yesterday at the Autox the pedal got enough travel that it tripped the warning light on. Does this point to a failed master cylinder? If I pump the pedal it will build pressure and reduce travel. after this is done it doesn't seem to drift to the floor with continued pressure. I bought from PMB because I learned form Eric that the ones you by at FLAPS don't have the correct material in the seals and that a new one should last years. The warning light is activated by a shuttle that moves towards the side of low pressure, generally a leak in front or rear of the system. As Dave says it could also be that the fluid got low enough to entrain air in the front or rear causing the low pressure, but a leaking fitting or caliper would be my bet. Check the inside of each tire for signs of fluid. Fix it before driving it more, but you probably have already reached the same conclusion. IMHO the master is the last place I would look other than perhaps to find out which side is low, front or back. Not that Eric is infallible. No wait, not certain about that. |
jmargush |
Jun 22 2015, 06:31 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 458 Joined: 8-June 04 From: Goshen, IN Member No.: 2,176 |
I am always fearful when I have installed the MC that he feed lines don't go in all the way. I have felt the little snap or pop as if falls into the seat int he grommet but I always wonder if it is fully seated.
Does anyone have a recommended installation that they feel makes sure the feed lines are seated? Has there ever been a modification to use lines with threaded ends in that application? I know you would have to have the MC be able to accept the threaded fittings. |
dlee6204 |
Jun 22 2015, 07:08 PM
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#6
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Howdy Group: Members Posts: 2,162 Joined: 30-April 06 From: Burnsville, NC Member No.: 5,956 |
I am always fearful when I have installed the MC that he feed lines don't go in all the way. I have felt the little snap or pop as if falls into the seat int he grommet but I always wonder if it is fully seated. Does anyone have a recommended installation that they feel makes sure the feed lines are seated? Has there ever been a modification to use lines with threaded ends in that application? I know you would have to have the MC be able to accept the threaded fittings. Anytime I install a MC I remove the clamp holding the reservoir allowing the lines to be pulled further down. Then I can get good access and leverage to fully seat the lines. With that being said, The last time I messed with the MC on my driver I tapped the two inlets on my master cylinder and put threaded fittings on eliminating the grommets. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
914werke |
Jun 22 2015, 09:39 PM
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#7
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,004 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
With that being said, The last time I messed with the MC on my driver I tapped the two inlets on my master cylinder and put threaded fittings on eliminating the grommets. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Id like to see that. Do you have a pic or two of that setup? |
dlee6204 |
Jun 23 2015, 05:43 AM
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#8
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Howdy Group: Members Posts: 2,162 Joined: 30-April 06 From: Burnsville, NC Member No.: 5,956 |
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jmargush |
Jun 26 2015, 06:40 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 458 Joined: 8-June 04 From: Goshen, IN Member No.: 2,176 |
Starting the process of trying to find where the brake system might be drawing air in.
If the bleed screws on the calipers were leaking wouldn't they be pushing fluid out or am I not thinking about this correctly? |
76-914 |
Jun 26 2015, 06:54 PM
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#10
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,490 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
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worn |
Jun 26 2015, 07:05 PM
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#11
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,147 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Starting the process of trying to find where the brake system might be drawing air in. If the bleed screws on the calipers were leaking wouldn't they be pushing fluid out or am I not thinking about this correctly? I should think they would bleed fluid out and air back in. No leaking fluid at all anywhere I take it? Both reservoirs showed full when the warning light came on? Shouldn't have but that is theory. |
jmargush |
Jun 27 2015, 11:07 AM
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#12
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Member Group: Members Posts: 458 Joined: 8-June 04 From: Goshen, IN Member No.: 2,176 |
Yeah, no fluid showing up any where and reservoir is full to the top.
Would it be feasible that I am drawing air in at the grommets for the feed lines to the MC and not see fluid leaking out? |
jmargush |
Jun 29 2015, 07:52 PM
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#13
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Member Group: Members Posts: 458 Joined: 8-June 04 From: Goshen, IN Member No.: 2,176 |
Should I start by rebleeding the whole system?
or pull the MC down and pull the feed lines out and re install or even get new grommets? |
914Mels |
Jun 30 2015, 10:09 AM
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#14
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Member Group: Members Posts: 357 Joined: 20-June 11 From: Santee Member No.: 13,221 Region Association: Southern California |
How old are your calipers? If they have not been touched in years the piston seals may be sticking to the pistons keeping them from self adjusting out as the pads wear. By pumping the pedal and getting a good pedal that way it sounds like the pads aren't close enough to the rotors so you're having to pump them out to take up the excess clearance. If indeed you have a hard pedal after pumping them, you probably do not have a internal leak. A internal leak would still have the pedal fade after you pump up some pressure. Don't for get about the rear calipers adjustment process either. If that gap is too big you'll end up with a low pedal.
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jmargush |
Jun 30 2015, 12:44 PM
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#15
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Member Group: Members Posts: 458 Joined: 8-June 04 From: Goshen, IN Member No.: 2,176 |
All the calipers were rebuilt about 12 yrs ago
I'll have to get back in the car and see exactly what the pedal is doing after pumping I'll also run through rear brake adjustment procedure again |
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