Rotisserie Alternatives, Looking for options Options

[jpnovak]

Build a 914 version of this. I built one for my 911. About $200 in materials and fits inside a normal garage. a full rotisserie is too long for me. Easy to flip with one person and very stable.

Yes, make sure you brace the tub.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...rotisserie.html

[mbseto]

I've got two door braces on each side. One goes from the door latch to the lower hinge, the other goes from the upper seat belt boss to the upper hinge. Two door braces allows control over the door gaps at the top and at the bottom of the door. I think of it as being able to adjust distance AND rotation.

I've seen the experienced guys here recommend a square brace inside the tub in addition to the door braces. After watching my frame flexing just on the dolly, I would certainly do that before mounting on a rotisserie.

[JoeDees]

This is the good kind of worrying that leads to better prep. But I'm worried about the ass end twisting or breaking off. There is definitely a brace being designed and built over the next week's time.

On the good news front, I found rust in the trunk, but after exploratory surgery I found that it was only surface with minor pitting. Also found my first bondo on the car, but cant figure out why it was there... the area is straight, it seems like they just wanted to smooth out those little divot areas where the license plate lights mount...

[JoeDees]

Maybe we can make "the bracing, jig, body alignment, etc thread"

[VWTortuga336]

I know this is an old post, but (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I'm debating on the best approach to take with my rust repairs as well (outer longs, he'll hole, and some small patches in both trunks) - leave the doors in and set the gap by jacking up the rear of the car, or door braces/rotisserie.

[Mark Henry]

The young lad needs to build a rotisserie I like the Restoration Design 911 one, but how would you tie into the 914?
The engine stands at ends type takes up to much room.

On bracing, wouldn't you want to leave the door shells in to check gaps?

I don't think his car has front sway bar mounts so what would be a good alternative?

Although hopefully not near as involved as the one in the pic below, this is one of the repairs needed. So where would you tie into the rear?
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-10428-1435840644.jpg)

[Mark Henry]

The young lad needs to build a rotisserie I like the Restoration Design 911 one, but how would you tie into the 914?

Found the rotisserie they made for the 914 and it's mount points

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiGB_MHBbls

[budk]

[/quote]
Found the rotisserie they made for the 914 and it's mount points

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiGB_MHBbls

[/quote]

I used RD's design and their detail drawings to make mine. It works great but I have too much junk in my garage which makes getting around it a little difficult. If you use their drawings, be care with the rear mounts. They may have corrected it by now but the drawings I used had the rear mounts show 180 deg off of how they needed to be attached. Nothing a grinder and more welding couldn't fix.

[JoeDees]

I know this is an old post, but (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I'm debating on the best approach to take with my rust repairs as well (outer longs, he'll hole, and some small patches in both trunks) - leave the doors in and set the gap by jacking up the rear of the car, or door braces/rotisserie.

If I were doing my long repairs again, here's what I would do: build a frame jig that can be attached a removable cart/dolly, jack up the rear to set the gaps, remove doors and install braces that still allow the doors to be installed to continually check gaps, and constantly take your measurements.

[Red76]

Lots of different designs for rotisseries on here. Heres some pics of one I rescued from my buddies scrap pile. He built it to float his 39 Cadillac LaSalle. Not sure but it could probably float a school bus. I’m just about ready to take my tub airborne. Just have to finish welding the bracket for the back bumper

[Red76]

A couple more pics

[Dutchy4U]

anyone who has been restoring chassis complete 914
I'm thinking about removing the complete harnas, should I and HOW ?

[billium01]

Not to poopoo RD's rotisserie idea but it looks like IMHO, it could use addition bracing to keep the chassis from twisting as it's rotated around. Especially so if the floor it's sitting on is uneven or it's construction is out of wack. Any thoughts on that?

[Superhawk996]

I've accessed all the structural elements you reference on this dolly. Jeff Hail has this right. Strong, stable, level surface to work from. All dimensions are posted on his thread.

I've hard mounted at transmission mounts and the front crossmember.

In my case I'm replacing the inner wheelhouse without cutting the rear quarter panel for access. Because of this, I am not mounting to the rear suspension outer console but it is a key suspension point that needs to be properly located.

I'm very happy with this - it was well worth the time to build.

[gereed75]

I am about to build a similar chassis dolly but will be integrating it into my mid rise scissor lift.

My question - which material is straighter/stronger, square tube or C channel??

I think the C channel may be a bit more versatile as the heavier wall and flanges might provide more options to weld/ clamp to ?

[bbrock]

anyone who has been restoring chassis complete 914
I'm thinking about removing the complete harnas, should I and HOW ?

I would. Basically, everything gets pulled into the main cabin of the car and the harness is removed from there. There are a number of threads with details so try a search. I think there is one in the classics forum which should make finding it easier. People complain about removing and installing the main harness but it is really pretty easy on a stripped chassis. For me, it was the last thing out and the first thing put back in.

[Superhawk996]

I am about to build a similar chassis dolly but will be integrating it into my mid rise scissor lift.

My question - which material is straighter/stronger, square tube or C channel??

Square tube given same wall thickness.

I've been contemplating building mine up to also be a rotisserie once I get the structure stabilized. I'd rather weld the floorpan on in some position other than overhead. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[914werke]

Depending on YOUR repair (of if you plan on doing more than one) you may need both!

[David Billo]

Not to poopoo RD's rotisserie idea but it looks like IMHO, it could use addition bracing to keep the chassis from twisting as it's rotated around. Especially so if the floor it's sitting on is uneven or it's construction is out of wack. Any thoughts on that?

I agree. The RD rotisserie is great for a car that is structurally sound and has the doors braced, but it seems too flexible for fixing the longs where you have to cut out too many parts that keep the car rigid.

[mepstein]

I would never put a 914 on a rotisserie to fix the longs. We do it all the time for 911 coupes (with bracing) because they have built in support with the roof. It’s very easy to find a used industrial metal table. Check craigslist. Lay the chassis on the table and it will help keep the chassis straight vs a rotisserie that is trying to bend it and letting it twist as soon as you start cutting the long.