More Oil Temperature Questions, Hot Oil, Cool Head |
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More Oil Temperature Questions, Hot Oil, Cool Head |
BeatNavy |
Jul 26 2015, 03:52 PM
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#1
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Certified Professional Scapegoat Group: Members Posts: 2,924 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
2056 with D-jet. After reading some of the recent oil temperature threads I decided I should probably check how I'm running. Don't have gauge, but I had my dipstick thermometer that was still in my old 1.7L engine. After 20 minutes of spirited driving around the neighborhood in 88 degree weather I was a little distressed to see temps on that gauge running close to 240. Yikes! Maybe not an emergency, but not optimum either. So this weekend I:
-made sure I had right amount of oil (running Joe Gibbs 20W50 right now) -made sure all the engine tin/warm air guides and heater components are in place (I had removed some of this a month ago when fixing the heat exchangers) -checked and reset timing (was probably advanced a little too much), -temporarily disconnected the thermostat cable from the top so the flaps are, in theory, always in max cooling position. None of this seemed to help. Funny thing is my head temps are normally cool. Driving around town (lots of costing and downshifting at lights) keep me in the 270-280 range, and the only time I ever really north of 300 degrees is when I'm going up a hill or if I'm running a few miles at 65 to 70 mph (and then it maybe gets to 335) out on the "freeway." Car is running great otherwise. So I'm wondering if the flaps truly are working. When I had the engine out a few months I definitely made sure, but I don't know if something is sticking or what. Right now that's my only working theory on why my head temps are cool to normal and the oil temp is warm to hot. Any thoughts? Any good way to verify flap operation without completely removing the tin (something I don't relish doing with the engine in the car). Also, engine came with this oil temp sending unit installed (below). It's definitely the source of one of my minor oil leaks. Anybody recognize it? I'd like to go ahead and install a gauge that works with this sending unit, and also see what I need to do to stop the leak. TIA, fellas. |
DRPHIL914 |
Jul 27 2015, 06:45 AM
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#2
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,766 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States |
the temps you are seeing are similar to the temps i have been seeing as well, but also found out that checking and calibrating my dipstick thermometer that my gauge was reading 30-40 degrees warmer than dipstick.
- i have the same billet deep tuna can and also the billet tuna can replacement as does Jim Hoyland. I have ordered a new VDO gauge that iwll match the sender properly and should give a more accurate indication of oil temp. my current gauge is off brand from before and not correct. - i just switched to a 10-40 oil from 20/50 and while i only have one day of driving this past weekend after the oil change it appears this made a measurable difference in my temps, i did not measure an oil temp over 205-210 this weekend and i had been pushing that 240 range before. the real test will be when i take it out on a hot day for more spirited driving. i was and still may consider replacing the stock cooler with the set up that Chris Foley has, or just an add-on aux. cooler that several other members have put in that seems to have worked well for them. - i still am going to go back to recheck my timing as that will matter for overal engine temp but if you have good head temps i would say that is not your problem. - a good racing oil will not break down at 250 or even 275, but som oils will begin to do that at that point. last year at octeenerfest i talked to John Forbes about this, because when pushing hard going up the mountain with our group i hit that 250 point and was very concerned. see how much change it makes with the other oil as i am before spending a bunch of extra cash on something else. |
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