raising spindles Options

[Jeroen]

Just got me a set of 911 Koni struts on which I wanna raise the spindle
Is the spindle only welded to the strut through hole# B?
Or is it attached somewhere else as well

[Jeroen]

found the answer already...
http://www.moto-delta.com/techart.html#Rai...ised%20Spindles

[airsix]

Jeroen,
Bilstiens have a traight tube, but my konis have a tube that is necked-down where the spindle is attached and below. Are yours like that, and if so, do you have a plan for dealing with the difference in diameters? I wanted to raise my spindles too, but don't see how I could do it since the spindle is already at the top of the narrow section of tube. The only thing I can think of would be to cut and splice tubing to move the spindles (too much work).

-Ben M.

[Jeroen]

Ben, you're referring to the Boge struts...
This is why I specifically wanted Koni struts (only found on the 2.7S 911)
The koni struts do have a taper, but it's higher above the point where the spindle sits (you can see it in the pic), so you can still raise the spindle

[Jeroen]

this pic shows it more clearly

[Eric_Shea]

Ben is correct as well. Not all Koni's have a neck as long as yours, however, I was still able to "just" raise mine by 18mm.

(Andy pic enclosed)

[J P Stein]

Jeroen:
You gonna bend the steering arm down?
That would seem the tougher part.
I just happen to have a set of raised Bilstiens setting on the bench....without the bend. I've heard it said that it's not necessary with the rack spacers installed....but have also heard the opposite.
I'll try asking my guru....if he's still speaking to me. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sad.gif)

[John]

QUOTE

Is the spindle only welded to the strut through hole# B? Or is it attached somewhere else as well

So was the answer yes? Or did I miss it?

[Jeroen]

So was the answer yes? Or did I miss it?

Yes, the answer is: yes... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Check the link I posted (2nd post in this thread)

You gonna bend the steering arm down?
That would seem the tougher part.
I just happen to have a set of raised Bilstiens setting on the bench....without the bend. I've heard it said that it's not necessary with the rack spacers installed....but have also heard the opposite.

Yes, you need to bend the arm to compensate for bumpsteer.
(bumpsteer wise, raising the spindle is the same as just lowering your car by the t-bar adjuster)
The rack spacers may or may not be enough
I think bending the arms will be the tricky part... Maybe I'll spend some $ on one of those fancy SRP bumpsteer kits (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I'll try asking my guru....if he's still speaking to me

That's what ya get for painting your car yellow (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

Yup John... it was yes. He stated earlier that he found the answer but it is yes.

JP... I'd bend the steering arm. Mine are raised 18mm w/o the arm bent. They have about 1/8" clearance on my 15's and they immediately knocked the wheel weights off. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

[andys]

And the best way to remove the factory weld is??????

Thanks,

Andy

[airsix]

QUOTE (andys @ Feb 28 2005, 08:39 AM)

And the best way to remove the factory weld is?????? Thanks, Andy

I'd guess a center-cutting end-mill because it doesn't have a conical tip. My mini-mill table is way too small for a 911 strut housing, so if I give this a shot I'll probably grind the weld out with a carbide bur in a die-grinder or dremel tool.

Eric, thanks for posting pics of your struts - that's what mine look like - spindle very close to the necked section of the tube.

Regarding bending the steering arm - my thought is that if you raise the spindle the same as the thickness of your rack spacers you're back where you started bump-steer wise. But if you drop the car lower than that a steering-arm relocation would be beneficial. That looks to me like a more challenging mod than moving the spindle. I'd definitely make up some kind of jig for that.

-Ben M.

[Eric_Shea]

Follow the link Jeroen put in his second post.
That's the best way.

[Downunderman]

Jeroen,

My recollection is that the Koni inserts don't fit the OE Koni struts, which is why most people use the Boge struts. Some comments on the process. If I was doing it again I wouldn't bother grinding the weld out, I would just drill it out and weld it up afterwards. It took forever to grind the thing out. I used Boge struts and once I had the spindle off machined about 0.75mm off the OD of the leg so that I could raise the stub axle. I then welded the hole at the back, but before I went any further I took the opportunity to put on a bit more negative camber by heating the tube just above the spindle and bending the thing. We are only talking mm here. I made both sides the same. Then weld spindle at top and botton to leg tube. Then bent steering arm down 20mm.

You will need access to a hydraulic press.

How..

[airsix]

QUOTE (Howard R @ Feb 28 2005, 10:27 AM)

My recollection is that the Koni inserts don't fit the OE Koni struts, which is why most people use the Boge struts.

This used to be the case, but for quite a few years Koni has been making the inserts of a slightly smaller diameter so you can now use them in OEM koni housings if you get the correct retaining nut. I'm running 911 Koni yellow inserts in Koni OEM housings off a 930. Jason at Paragon got me the inserts and the correct retaining nuts to make it work.

-Ben M.