what to do? NEED YOUR VOTE !, Should I convert? Restore to Original? Options

[72914wrx]

That's a sweet ride . I love yellow on 914 and my first 914 was yellow . I do feel like my 5 lug is a lot better than the 4 .

[914_teener]

Leave it as is....drive as much as you possibly can.

Build another type four to last and have fun driving it.

It is a nice looking car.

[Jeffs9146]

I think you need to drive a 3.0L or larger and then decide! Keep you options open. I love the 3L-6 in mine but it's all about what you can afford and what you can find.

[euro911]

You can't have just ONE (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

We currently have two - one hot rod/outlaw/bastard with a high-end 2056 for real manly fun and my wife has a perfectly bone stock '71 with a little 1.7L.

Your car looks really nice as-is. If it was mine, I'd keep it pretty much stock, but maybe build up a separate slightly larger motor, keeping it in the reliable category. I'd also keep the original motor tucked away in the garage. Then over time slowly rebuild that motor for originality purposes.

When I hear the same question from others, whether it's a car or a musical instrument, I'll typically say - you have a blank canvas in front of you, so you can paint anything you want.

On the other hand, I've seen some guys take a totally beautiful straight stock car, flare the fenders and drop a big 6 or Subi in it. I can understand that they want their dream car, but don't understand why they didn't start off with a less desirable car that had slight body damage that needed repairs in the first place (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ... seems like a sacrilege to me.

Let us know more about your car ... what other features and accessories it came with, as well as any areas that might have existing damages that need to be dealt with.

... and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) ... you won't find a better 914 forum anywhere else in the world (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[somd914]

As for five bolt conversion, there are two ways - modified hubs/rotors to allow installing five bolt wheels, or the better way to install a 911 front end and replace the rear hubs with 914-6 or 911 parts.

The advantage of the 911 front end is better handling and larger brakes.

On my car I run a nice 2056 with dual webers (nice sound for a type IV) and a 911 front end - big improvement over stock performance in both power and handling.

One question is how much do you want to put into this car? Just a decent engine rebuild can easily run north of $5k, performance enhancements add to that. Though your paint looks good, a decent respray can add another $5k. A six conversion as some have recommended will run you north of $15k, likely more than $20k that given you stated that work will be done by shops.

But as I said earlier, no matter what you do, opinions will differ, do what you want to do.

[EdwardBlume]

List all the things you want from the car ie value, driving, racing, power, cruising.. weigh each and then consider your budget.

Doing whatever YOU want aside, that's a good looking car! An upgrade to a 2.0 or 2056 would enhance the value and fun, and be quite a looker. Chasing a /6, subi, or LSi, is a long term adventure down a cash ejecting rabbit hole. Fun for sure, but like others have said, can be done with a second car.

[EdwardBlume]

Oh and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[Claus Graf]

That is a nice 914 Beebo.

Welcome to the forum.

Check the longitudinals for rust and take care of this first.

Then, I would put more power under the hood, but make it drivable. You got nice wheels. Put in sway bars and a front caliper upgrade (BMW318).

And, have fun!

Claus

[mbseto]

Restore this one, hot rod the next one.

[DRPHIL914]

I found that going five lug really stiffened up the suspension. I did it all correctly, powder coated, replaced, and all the best stuff that made sense + factory sway bars. I highly recommend it, but it ain't cheap. Now, I'm going 911 engine.

Your car almost looks too nice to screw with, so rebuild THAT suspension to the max and do a bigger type IV.

(although I will say that the five lug Fuchs would look great on your car)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
this is exactly what i did as well , but mostly still original, since its so nice and clean dont do anything you cant un-do. 5 lug is nice and can be returned to 4 if wanted to go back . but i like the 16" fuchs i have now, more choices with wheels, rims etc and still is porsche. - Look into Eric Shea's 5 lug conversion . i idid mine myself and like Larmo, i did my trialing arms and a-arms, all new bushings a bearnings since it was all 40 years old and now rides like new. but i stayed with original calipers rebuild and restored by PMB(eric shea) as well, stops on a dime. really not necessry to go bigger unless racing.

[Dave_Darling]

Do the 5 lugs help in any way? or is it that the larger brakes can be fitted?

Larger brakes (generally ventilated rotors), and a much wider selection of wheels.

Being the aforementioned old, bald and fat, I am going to job this out.

Then do as little to the car as possible. Paying someone else to work on your car gets expensive really fast.

Again, how do you go about finding the original factory build? I really don't know the color / options as it came from the factory...

Start that journey here: http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesands...ofauthenticity/

You may have to provide proof of ownership, and it does cost some $$. And the results are known to contain mistakes, in part because the information was copied off of hand-written index cards at some point. Plus Porsche's/WV's record keeping wasn't the best in the world at the time.

--DD

[Chris914n6]

I'd stick with the basics with that nice of a car. Add sway bars if you don't have them. Sticky sports car tires. Better brake pads. Put some money aside for repairs that come up.

A good running stock 1.7 is worth more than a core, so I would garage it and buy a built big 4. I went from a carbed 1.8 (dog) to a stock 2.0 (fun) to a 200hp 3.0 (big grin) and now have a 270hp 3.5 in the works. I say test drive a few before you commit.

If you stick with a -4, the 911 brake swap, lsd, and other stuff doesn't really matter. You can still get bigger wheels in 4 lug, or drill the hubs for 5 lug if you really like a wheel style.

Not to sound insensitive, but dropping 100lbs off the driver would help.

[MoveQik]

Not to sound insensitive, but dropping 100lbs off the driver would help.

You know the OP and you are joking, right? WTF?

[euro911]

Just noticed the windshield wipers rest on the right side. Wondering if it was a Euro market import?

If the records you have don't say, a COA might tell you more - or a better yet, a Kardex (if they're available for 914s) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Beebo Kanelle]

Thanks Thanks Thanks!

I knew the collective brilliance of 914 world would guide to a path of 914 righteousness.

1) get the Porsche COA to see how close to original it is; and to use that as a guidepost

2) make sure the body/chassis is perfect, stiffening (gotta have a good foundation, right?)

3) suspension... probably stick with with the 4-lug, but can't be sure - I do like brakes... and the wheel options

4) a Type IV - I think a goal of ~200hp is reasonable and attainable

So in the end, an original looking car, peppy (read fun) which should handle even better than it does now(or did then)... maybe even get back into an occasional autocross? who knows?

Oh, and I am down to ONE (1) bucket of KFC / night - the poundage is flying off! Tie me down before the wind picks up!!!!

thanks again, I will keep you posted, now that I know how to use this interweb thingy.

beebo (aka dan)

P.S. I'm gonna throw the ls into the Cayman... I'll let you know how that goes.

[euro911]

...

3) suspension... probably stick with with the 4-lug, but can't be sure - I do like brakes... and the wheel options

4) a Type IV - I think a goal of ~200hp is reasonable and attainable


beebo (aka dan)

Dan - 200hp will be a real good reason to go with vented front rotors (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[Chris914n6]

Not to sound insensitive, but dropping 100lbs off the driver would help.

You know the OP and you are joking, right? WTF?

What? 100lbs is 5% of the car's weight. That's significant when you have only 80-120 hp. That's autoX_101 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
-----
More hp = bigger brakes is an old wives tale. From an engineering perspective, it's based on vehicle weight and heat load. So a big -4 doesn't nesitate vented rotors, it just makes people feel safer.

I can say 200 hp turns the 914 into a real sports car. Be flexible when talking to engine builders about the 200 hp number. A solid street motor with with a reasonable price tag might come a little under. Sometimes the price tag makes the LS a no brainer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

A 200 HP Type IV is one of two things--
Either very high-strung and short-lived, or very very expensive indeed (when you pay someone else to build it).

--DD

[euro911]

You might get some debate from the braking industry, Chris.

Upgrading the braking system was just a recommendation from my personal opinion, but formulated during my employment with Mister 500. When re-engineering a vehicle to higher performance, the braking system should be re-engineered to handle those changes. Higher HP automobiles tend to be driven at higher speeds (velocity) and brake more aggressively, especially in racing applications.

The OP will ultimately have to decide what's best for him based on his plans for his car. Since he mentioned running AX courses, that's the application I responded to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Wives aside, I think it's common knowledge that vented rotors dissipate heat better, which helps to avoid a number of reasons for system failures.


Wilwood says:

"Most modern stock brake systems work well for average daily street driving and an occasional 60-0 or 80-0 stopping. Typically performance enthusiasts who occasionally compete in racing events, push the stock brake system beyond its capabilities. Driving style, and other performance modifications such as increased horsepower, tire and suspension upgrades, etc., can quickly overwhelm stock brakes. A big brake kit will provide increased heat capacity, which means substantially more resistance to brake fade and caliper distortion with multiple stops from high speed. A firmer pedal due to stronger and stiffer components, as well as better modulation characteristics are also benefits of a properly balanced brake upgrade."

Stoptec says:

Most of the enormous amounts of heat generated during deceleration must be dissipated into the free air stream.

Most high performance (and/or heavy) cars today use some variation of the "ventilated" brake disc in which air entering the center or "eye" of the rotor is forced through the interior of the rotor by the pumping action of the rotating assembly. The most efficient practical way yet devised to accomplish this is through the use of the "curved vane" ventilated brake rotor originally designed for the LeMans winning Ford GT 40s in 1966. In this design the interior vanes are curved to form an efficient pump impeller. They also stabilize the rotor from distortion and serve as very effective barriers to stop the propagation of cracks due to thermal stress. In laboratory testing STOPTECH's innovative design developments in the 48 vane rotors have increased air flow through the rotor by an astounding 61% over some OEM rotors and from 10-15% over racing rotors of the same size. This results in a cost effective but very stable direct replacement rotor that runs typically 15% cooler than stock and 7% cooler than racing designs.

[Beebo Kanelle]

OK guys, as long as we're getting esoteric, wouldn't the 4-lug rotor/brake system result in a lower unsprung weight? allowing faster transient response and a lower rotating mass?

if I'm going light, light, light can this be a determinant?

Remember, I'm down to one bucket of KFC/ night.