Schooling up on the l-jet, need a quick tutorial , the finer points of the L-(ihave a75 d-jet) Options

[DRPHIL914]

I may be coming into a 75 l-jet 1.8 and would llike to get schooled up on some of the important differences between these two types of systems.
ive had my 2.0 d-jet for 6 years and brought that car from a non running car to a very dependable runner. dealt with MPS issues richness/lean running, sensors , vac leaks etc.
If i do acquire this particular vehicle what are the first things on this car(was stored for 10 years, but was a dd and ax car before being set aside. )
I know the usuals apply- check and clean the tank, fuel lines etc etc, filter, plugs wires, oil,
but when all this is done, what to check on the l-jet side before attempting a start up. I will pull my stuff from PBAnders etc and tech tips , Haynes etc.
but those with experience on these what do i look for. i reemnber seeing something about the air flow meter, so what do i look at there.

Thanks for the assistance and help.

[JeffBowlsby]

See the L-jet manuals here:

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm

[rhodyguy]

after the pre start procedures, you'll know if you need to address any vacuum leaks if you can't sustain a normal ilde. as in low idle. adj the valves prior to the install. i'd prob get new valve cover gaskets too.

[GaroldShaffer]

PM Tim_ND here on the forum. He knows his LJet stuff.

[rhodyguy]

i would just go ahead and replace the phenolic spacers while the engine is still out. new injector seals and a cork fill tower gasket too. then you will have eliminated a bunch of potencial leak spots. low $$ and way easier NOW rather than later. then dwd sets in.

[Porschef]

I used the Itinerant Air thread which I believe was off the Samba. I'll have to check. If it's a stock 1.8 you most likely will not have to mess with the AFM, I did only because it's a 2056. Eliminating air leaks is the number one PITA, after that it's pretty straight forward.

[davesprinkle]

Seriously, take this advice; a piece-meal attempt at troubleshooting will take longer and you'll arrive at the same place:
Before you make any attempt to start the car, replace every single rubber line in the engine compartment. Replace the injector seals. Replace the intake manifold phenolic spacers. Replace the intake rubber runner couplers. Replace both orings in the oil filler. Replace the oil filler cork gasket. Check the AFM boot very carefully for cracks.

The L-jet system is simpler and more reliable than the D-jet system, but it is very sensitive to intake vacuum leaks. Take care of those first.

[Valy]

Rust is the most important thing to look for.
Then, make sure the brakes work.
The LJet is almost bullet proof as long as there are no vacuum leaks. Be prepared to replace all the vacuum hoses. Pay attention to injector seals and the big boot between the AFM and throttle body.

And most important, I like your dog. We had doxies for 5 generations in my family.

[DRPHIL914]

Rust is the most important thing to look for.
Then, make sure the brakes work.
The LJet is almost bullet proof as long as there are no vacuum leaks. Be prepared to replace all the vacuum hoses. Pay attention to injector seals and the big boot between the AFM and throttle body.

And most important, I like your dog. We had doxies for 5 generations in my family.

Thanks for the advice, i did the same thing with my 75 2.0 d-jet. had a hard time getting fast idle down, and came down to a lean running by the mps, and a slight leak between the throttle body and plenum, and intake runners. now she purs once warm at 850 or so, although i think i have the timing set just a touch retarded. So im doing my homework on this first and will order the stuff soon so that i can be ready. When i bought my copper car, it fired right up then died. ended up being a bad mps but once is sourced that, after replacing all the lines , vac and fuel, pulled and cleaned the tank, fuel pump and filter, it fired right up! i am planning on doing the same thing here with thtis one - the plan is, if it runs good, to take everyting out of the interior of my copper car and swap it over to this l-jet car. then leave copper as a roller to get the rear jack points and longs fixed, then repainted. so she will sit for a while and i will have a driver during that time- hopefully it all works out. - but worst case senario would be that the engine does not run. if that happens i will just pull my 2.0 and trans in one piece and swap it too! both ar e75's so should be easy(well somewhat easy), close to plug and play!

-Re the dog-- yes , The kids named him Snickers, because they thought his colors looked like and snickers bar. He's 13, and still runs around like a pup! Vet says he could live to 18-20. his parents were AKC minnies ahd the whole litter was 8-12# dogs grown up. he was kind of a lazy quiet pup and a runt so the wife picked him out cause he was so relaxed-he grew to 20#, no fat, just a big doxxie! Great dog , great with the kids. Just wish the didnt shed!

[DRPHIL914]

Question about tuning parts -

I have lots of extra parts here from my 2.0 -

so, can i use the same Distributor from my 2.0?
also - my petronix unit, injectors, plugs, wires, fuel filter, coil,

i have all of these so im wonder which ones are interchangable.

[Dave_Darling]

You can use the distributor, but it won't be the same. The advance curves are different, and you'll leave the injector trigger points disconnected.

The Pertronix should work in either distributor.

The injectors are different and should not be swapped. (Some say you can, the late Cap'n said that you could see electrical failures if you swapped.)

The plugs should be the same. The plug wires from the 2.0 are useable, but not quite the same--the wires should be a touch longer, for one thing, because the 2.0 plugs tilt outwards.

The 75-76 filter is different than the 70-74 filter, so those may or may not interchange.

The coil should be identical, though the mounting may not be.

--DD

[montoya 73 2.0]

A fellow member let me borrow his book (which I scanned) for later use.

How to Tune and Modify Bosch Fuel Injection

[JawjaPorsche]

A fellow member let me borrow his book (which I scanned) for later use.

How to Tune and Modify Bosch Fuel Injection

Thank you, lots of good information. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[timothy_nd28]

Sorry, was at the hospital the past few days, came home with one of these


I agree with the previous suggestions. After you do the pre start stuff and it still doesn't come alive, I can help walk you through with diagnosing and isolation.

[DRPHIL914]

Cool, thanks and congratulations! !
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
You will be hearing a lot of (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

[JawjaPorsche]

Congratulations on the newest 914 fan! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

How to Tune and Modify Bosch Fuel Injection

Not my favorite FI book. I believe that's the one that suggests randomly getting air flow meters from the junkyard and throwing them on your car to see if one will make your car run better...

I far prefer the "Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Management" book. (That's the blue one with the hot-wire air flow sensor on the cover.) It is heavier on the theory than the practice, though.

--DD

[montoya 73 2.0]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) I will have to find one and scan it in!