1.7l starting issues, motor starts if I disconnect cyl 4 injector cable Options

[b.stirbu]

If I got it right, the ideal cold start rpm with the AAR open is ~1800.
The AAR is open... if it closes after the engine gets warm I do not know.. I have not tested it yet.

I will recheck for vacuum leaks...

[Dave_Darling]

Usually a 3000 RPM idle is a large vacuum leak. As in, one of the hoses to the plenum fell off.

--DD

[b.stirbu]

Hi Dave,

It drops to 1500 rpm if I close (clog) the AAR suction with my finger... it should drop to ~900, so I need to find out where the rest of the RPM comes from..
I think I need to look also at the brain knob..I played with that earlier....

Most likely there is a vacuum leak, because I can hear a suction sound (like air being sucked through a small crack)..

[Dave_Darling]

The brain knob only fiddles the idle mixture--not the idle RPM. At least, not directly.

500 RPM could be caused by ignition timing (is the car hard to start?) as well as by vacuum leaks.

--DD

[euro911]

Check all vacuum connections for leaks (repair/replace as needed) *
Verify/adjust valve clearances *
Verify/adjust dwell angle *
Check trigger points * (clean contacts & lube shaft - or replace as needed)
Verify/adjust ignition timing *
Verify functionality of individual components (which I believe you've already done - repair/replace as needed)

* (if not already done)

There is also an adjustment on the throttle body but should be the last item to adjust after performing the steps above.

I did all these things to get my wife's 1.7L to run (and idle) properly. Unfortunately, I did everything at once, so I never determined if any one of them by itself corrected the problem.

[b.stirbu]

Thanks guys for your help until now.

I'm running into something that baffles me...
The valves are adjusted, dwell angle is 45, ignition timing set with the timing light at 3500 rpm, new spark plugs, new fuel pump, all the injectors have been cleaned and they spay (i've rotated them around the cilinders) and I'm still always running on 2 cilinders: 4 and 2..
What can it be ?
-No Vacuum? I doubt because the mix reaches the cilinder head...
-The valves are adjusted wrong? At least the intake valves opens (the sparkplugs are wet)
I doubt the cam shaft lobes are worn because when I adjusted the valves the were moving nicelly...

The sparks for cylinder 1 and 3 spark outside the engine, but seem to not do it when I fit them in...
when I took the sparks out they were nicely wet...

[914itis]

For this issue you have to check your trigger points at the distributor .

[Dave_Darling]

Double-check your injector grounds. They are paired, though I forget which two share a ground.

Trigger points are paired diagonally across the engine, so 1/4 and 2/3. So the trigger points aren't a likely suspect, unless the injector wires have been swapped on one side of the engine. (Not that hard to do, though. Hmm. The engine will still run OK with them swapped...)

Grounds first, then trigger points. That would be what I checked.

--DD

[b.stirbu]

the ground are OK, and I'think the injectors are all working properly..I've tested them outside the intake in some cups. They all sprayed an equal quantity of gas Either they are all faulty or all good..

Now the interesting part comes...The intake for the cilinders that are not operating are Warm...(warmer than the ones that operating)

the Exaust of the cilinders that do not operate is cold..it makes me think that either the valves are not adjusted properly for this two cilinders...

What makes an intake pipe warm?

[Valy]

1. Could it be you mixed the spark plug wires between the non-working cylinders?
2. What happens if you try to start it with just the 2 non-working injectors wired? Do you get backfire from the intake?

[euro911]

Pardon me if I missed anything you or others previously posted.

You said you timed it @3500 RPM, so it was running OK at some point. Did you make sure to tighten up the dizzy afterward? ... is it possible that it moved?

Are you still seeing 45° dwell angle?

The dizzy rotates CCW, are you SURE you have the firing order correct? (1-4-3-2)

Did you try static timing it @ around 7% BTC to see if you can get it started again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Just tossing out suggestions ...

[b.stirbu]

Guys, first of all, I would like to thank you for you help and ideas.
With all the shame I have to share my story, maybe it can be a lesson learned for other 914ers (and not only).

When I changed the piston rings I also removed the rocker arms (and rods), in order to inspect them.
When I fit the rocker arms back, I've must have done something wrong with the torque settings (or the wrench is not properly calibrated), because:

- On cilinder 1 - one nut jumped off and one was loose
- On cilinder 3 - both nuts jumped off...

Luckily the rocker arms are held in place by that wire underneath them...

After I've tight them back (I might have tight them a bit too hard) and readjust the valves, the car started from the first turn of the key..

I could not sleep last night thinking that I'm so close of driving it...
It idles ok, it might need a bit of tunning, and I think I have to tune the throttle, because after acceleration I have to push is back a bit to decrease the RPMs..

[euro911]

Glad to hear you found and fixed the problem (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

You can lightly lube the throttle shaft on the throttle body and the throttle cable where it enters the sheath in the engine compartment to help with the lagging throttle return.

Also check to see if your return spring has enough tension to pull the throttle plate fully closed. You may need to replace the spring or find another anchor point to attach it to.

[Dave_Darling]

When I fit the rocker arms back, I've must have done something wrong with the torque settings (or the wrench is not properly calibrated)...

The torque on those is pretty light, I believe 11 lb-ft. But the trick is that you have to tighten them when the cylinder is at TDC, so the valves are not pushing on the rocker arms! The valve springs will push the rockers enough that the rocker shafts won't even seat against the head at 11 lb-ft.

...I think I have to tune the throttle, because after acceleration I have to push is back a bit to decrease the RPMs..

Check the pedal, especially if it wobbles at all. Rust can get into the rubber pedal and rot out the metal hinge that is inside it. That will make it wobble and stick.

If that's not the problem, then unhook the throttle linkage where you can and try to isolate where the problem is. It could be in the cable, at the pedal, otherwise at the pedal cluster, or at the throttle body itself.

--DD

[Bob L.]

Also, make sure the throttle cable isn't wrapped around or bound up with the clutch cable.

[b.stirbu]

I think I've got a serious problem now...I can drive the car in the 1st and reverse gear, but when I switch into the 2nd to 5th gear the lever switch just pops out back to neutral...I've tried to force hold it in the 2nd gear and it makes a very loud gear box specific sound..
I'm not sure if this is a clutch related problem or gear box problem...

[euro911]

Have you checked all the shift rod bushings?

One in the front shift rod support bracket under the shift lever assembly in the tunnel
One at the fire wall
One spherical on the shift pivot bolt at the connection to the rear shift rod
One spherical in the front of the rear shift rod
One in the rear shift rod support bracket

EDIT:

The condition you describe is pretty common when the bushings need replaced. Mark the positions of the shift rod connection at the rear of the tunnel prior to disassembling anything. It will save you a lot of time getting the shift adjustment back to normal.

If you don't already have the 914 PET Katalog, download the .pdf file here: 914 PET Katalog

[b.stirbu]

I will check, but I'm afraid it's not a rod bushing problem..otherwise I can't explain why 1st and reverse gear work properly..

[rhodyguy]

same jump out of gear problem while engaging 3rd&4th?

[b.stirbu]

2nd,3rd,4th,5th...the synchronized gears....