Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

4 Pages V  1 2 3 > »   
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Project Home Coming 914 2.0, Ongoing Updates...
LowBridge
post Aug 14 2015, 07:57 AM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 359
Joined: 10-August 15
From: Lunenburg, MA
Member No.: 19,045
Region Association: North East States



I'm new here and this is my first post..

I’ll start with a short back story.. I owned a 1975 914 2.0 in the early 80"s as a teenager and sold it many many years ago. About 9 months ago my youngest son (18yrs), wife and my dad decided to see if they could track down my car and well they did and last week my son along with my high school friend (who owned the car before me) drove down to GA buy it back.

The previous owner had begun to restore but as we all know life happened and only got the car half way done, but in drivable condition which give us a great head start. I took the car for a short test drive and mechanically it worked, engine, brakes, gearbox all checked out well, so we bought the car and towed it home.

Now the problem, only the front and side running lights and the passengers rear tail light worked. No headlights (high or low), fog lights and the driver’s rear tail light did not work. My son and I started to do a little investigating to see if it was something simple and found the fogs were not plugged in, so simple fix here.

At this point my son tells me the running lights “feel” hot so I tell him to turn the key off because at this point no need to kill the battery (with all the reading I’m doing I now know this was a mistake to leave the key on). We also disconnect the battery with the heads lights in the up position so they are easier to work with.
With the battery disconnected we start to disassembled the headlights and found the passenger side bulb burned out however the driver’s side was fine and but no power.

We trouble shoot some more and I found a few more wires loose and make the connections. We now go back to try the lights again and reconnect the battery. The head lights go about 2/3’s back down and stop, we are dead with no power going anywhere and nothing happening when we turn the key. Just for giggles I remove the battery and charge it overnight, so just in case we killed it from earlier actions.

I have checked my ground and metered it to make sure the connection was working (when we disconnect the battery I adjusted the ground wire because it was not on correctly). Additionally with more reading on the forums I think the 5 red wires coming off the battery go to the starter, ignition switch, fuse panel, hazard switch and relay board. We also disconnect all wires that we connected beforehand to get back to the same starting point.

Now I do some more looking and find this (see picture) on what I think is the relay board in the engine compartment. The engine has been converted to Webers, so this seems to be some kind of crude jumper? I did have a spare relay and plugged it into that slot.

At this point I’m not sure what to do next, I have ordered a color wiring diagram and a manual that should be here in a week. I did reconnect the battery and give the key a try but still dead, so thoughts?
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439560659.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439560659.2.jpg)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Cairo94507
post Aug 14 2015, 08:06 AM
Post #2


Michael
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,026
Joined: 1-November 08
From: San Ramon Valley, CA
Member No.: 9,712
Region Association: Northern California



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) Well you are definitely headed in the correct direction by ordering a color wiring diagram.

I cringe when I see people have removed the original FI to install carbs. Few are done correctly and problems just seem to flow from that one (bad) decision. If it were my car..... I would source a complete stock FI system, reinstall, and return all wiring to essentially stock. Good luck and how fortunate you were to have a family and friends who cared enough to locate your original car.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
LowBridge
post Aug 15 2015, 07:33 AM
Post #3


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 359
Joined: 10-August 15
From: Lunenburg, MA
Member No.: 19,045
Region Association: North East States



Some new pic.. the previous owner told me him put volvo calipers and I cannot find anything on this mod, so here are some pics and I'm not sure they look right. notice the pads (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) . I've seen where people do BMW mods, thoughts?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439645622.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439645622.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439645623.3.jpg)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
mepstein
post Aug 15 2015, 07:46 AM
Post #4


914-6 GT in waiting
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 10,316
Joined: 19-September 09
From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE
Member No.: 10,825
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

How about some pics of the car
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Spoke
post Aug 15 2015, 09:43 AM
Post #5


Jerry
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,591
Joined: 29-October 04
From: Allentown, PA
Member No.: 3,031



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

About those pop rivet relay contact replacements, this is for the fuel pump. The PO removed the fuel pump relay and just shorted the relay contacts together with the rivets.

If the fuel pump runs ok, I wouldn't remove this jumper until you replace the relay. You should put tape on rivets to protect them since they are +12V.

As far as the other electrical issues, pick one to work on and follow the wiring either from the element (light bulb) back to the power or from the power to the element. You will need a voltmeter to do this. If you don't have a voltmeter, borrow or buy one; you'll need it again and again. There are schematics on Pelican Parts you can use until you get the manuals you ordered.

It's good to remove each fuse (disconnect battery negative first) and clean its contacts as well as the contacts on the fuse panel. You may want to check the resistance of the fuses just to make sure they are good.

It's kinda hard to debug an issue over the internet when the PO may or may not have modified the wiring.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rhodyguy
post Aug 15 2015, 02:22 PM
Post #6


We're so screwed...
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 18,106
Joined: 2-March 03
From: Orion's belt
Member No.: 378
Region Association: Galt's Gulch



The simplest and cleanest method for powering your carb fuel pump, using the relay, is detailed in the classics thread forum. Page #2.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
LowBridge
post Aug 15 2015, 02:24 PM
Post #7


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 359
Joined: 10-August 15
From: Lunenburg, MA
Member No.: 19,045
Region Association: North East States



picture of Daisy and more updates on progress below..

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439670262.1.jpg)

ok making progress with electrical issues. turns out bad battery and not a great ground. fixed both and now I have running/tail/fog lights, also head lights go up and down. Additionally both headlight bulbs are burned out so I need to get to new ones and I have 12 volts at the starter.

fuel pump does not run now after I removed the "rivet jumper", so the relay I have must not be doing what it needs so next steps?

So I turn the key and get what looks like dash lights and low oil pressure and no starter noise or clicking of any kind. I do some more reading looks like i need to trouble shoot the ignition in the column, so I start with the relay under the passengers sit and no relay (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) , does this get removed with the Weber conversion?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1439670263.2.jpg)

so with no relay and knowing the car was running a few days ago, I'm onto the steering column and ignition key. I cannot wait until my color wiring diagram shows up next week. also any suggestions on a manual to pick up?

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
porschetub
post Aug 16 2015, 12:35 PM
Post #8


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,479
Joined: 25-July 15
From: New Zealand
Member No.: 18,995
Region Association: None



No, thats for the seatbelt interlock and its been bypassed anyway.
You can see the 2 Yellow wires have been looped,just make sure the connection is sound/clean.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Tom
post Aug 16 2015, 06:28 PM
Post #9


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,036
Joined: 21-August 05
From: Port Orchard, WA 98367
Member No.: 4,626
Region Association: None



To energize the fuel pump, run a ground to pin #3 of the four pin connector ( lower left ) on the relay board. See the picture of the relay board to see the four pin connector. While you are troubleshooting and repairing electrical issues, it would save you much grief later to give that relay board a good cleaning. It looks very corroded. Some light sandpaper on all of the contacts and an alcohol brushing and rinse then blow dry should made worlds of difference. A small rolled up piece of sandpaper will get into the relay socket holes. Also lightly sand the relay prongs, then very slightly spread them with a sharp knife ( a few thousands will be enough). That way they will fit tighter and give a better electrical contact. Also sand the fuse contacts and the fuse ends lightly.
Tom


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Edward Blume
post Aug 16 2015, 07:01 PM
Post #10


These Hands Are How I Make My Living
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 11,523
Joined: 2-January 03
From: P Town
Member No.: 81
Region Association: Northern California



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Good luck with your restoration! Electric problems can be tough but use the parts diagrams on the Pelican site for references.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
LowBridge
post Aug 18 2015, 05:28 PM
Post #11


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 359
Joined: 10-August 15
From: Lunenburg, MA
Member No.: 19,045
Region Association: North East States



still chasing this electrical problem and I do have a question about the steering wheel. Is these any reason that would case the car to be dead if the steering wheel is off while I'm having my issues?

just sitting here thinking and that popped into my head (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Electrical is not my area and this is killing me
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
LowBridge
post Aug 18 2015, 06:20 PM
Post #12


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 359
Joined: 10-August 15
From: Lunenburg, MA
Member No.: 19,045
Region Association: North East States



answered my own question... yes timmy the wheel has to be on or the electrical system will be dead
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Dave_Darling
post Aug 18 2015, 07:31 PM
Post #13


914 Idiot
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 13,552
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Silly-con Valley, CA
Member No.: 121
Region Association: Northern California



No, it doesn't. If the wheel is off, about the only electrical thing that is affected is that the horn won't work. If pulling the wheel off the steering shaft is killing your electrical system, you probably have something loose in the steering column that is getting moved around when you do the removal and installation.

--DD
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
LowBridge
post Aug 19 2015, 04:59 AM
Post #14


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 359
Joined: 10-August 15
From: Lunenburg, MA
Member No.: 19,045
Region Association: North East States



Ok good to know and after putting the wheel back on I now have working lights and the ignition is giving me dash lights but the starter is still DOA.

So it sounds like I need to revisit the electrical components of the steering column and do some more testing.

thank you
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Philip W.
post Aug 19 2015, 06:39 AM
Post #15


Dr. Phil
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,785
Joined: 9-December 09
From: Bluffton, SC
Member No.: 11,106
Region Association: South East States



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) great father-son project, and very cool you found your old car! Bought my '75 as a father/son project as well. but with hm busy in college i did most of it myself. He now has an engineering degree!, btw that car looks very nice body wise!

suggestion on the relay board. you could post a WTB add and just get a new or refurb one that has been gone thru. also consider going back to F.I. at some point. if the engine has the original cam you will have better performance and milage with the F.I. system. I have a 75 2.0 as well, about to acquire another 75 soon. I have little electrical work experience and still have not figured out my issue with the fresh air blower not working but there are some good 914 guys up in your neck of the woods so if you cant get is sorted out, i am sure someone near you will be able to help. - Spoke already had pointed you in the right direction . clean all the grounds, connections etc. go from there. Good luck!!
not sure about the brakes issue there, maybe Eric from PMB performance will chime in here on that subject
Hope you can get it on the road soon! if you do, you might consider coming down to the Octeenerfest gathering in Banner Elk NC in a month!!! would be a great way to meet some other guys and see about 50 other 914's!

Phil
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
LowBridge
post Aug 19 2015, 08:07 AM
Post #16


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 359
Joined: 10-August 15
From: Lunenburg, MA
Member No.: 19,045
Region Association: North East States



thanks Philip.. I have already PM Eric and with all the unknowns his suggestion was to go back to OEM on the brakes and I really think that is the best move there (so PMB will be getting an order from me shortly).

post that pic above of the relay board I have removed it and given it a good old cleaning per the suggestion of Tom (thanks) and it looks much better. I think Dave is onto something with the steering column and having a hidden issue there, so tonight my son and I will be testing connections there.

The car is in solid shape with the PO doing some rust work, so the body will be a year or so down the line before we start on it. I want to give me son some driving/track time before we take if off the road for a year plus.

My hopes are he gets bit by the same bug that got most of us (IMG:style_emoticons/default/MDB2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/white914.jpg)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Shredhead
post Aug 19 2015, 10:15 AM
Post #17


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 68
Joined: 10-August 15
From: CT
Member No.: 19,047
Region Association: North East States



Following this as I'm a 914 newbie and while my '74 2.0 California car is generally in great shape, the electricals are a bit of a mess. And I'm an idiot when it comes to electricity. Right now I have all lights working with the exception of my passenger side low beam. But the gauge is a different story... shows right turn signal continuous on when brights are lit, blue high beam indicator comes on when parking lights are turned on, left turn signal indicator goes on when right turn signal on, etc., etc.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
LowBridge
post Aug 20 2015, 07:16 PM
Post #18


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 359
Joined: 10-August 15
From: Lunenburg, MA
Member No.: 19,045
Region Association: North East States



Well she is running and my son is hooked (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) , we took it for a short drive and he was smiling from ear to ear.

So still not sure what we fixed but checking everything and fixing little nicks in the wires and checking/cleaning grounds we most have done something or nothing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

we still have issues and those are next

no dash lights
no hazard lights
no blinkers
no backup lights

and my oil pressure gauge is showing max pressure like 80 psi plus.

but it runs and like a bad game of golf it only takes one good shot to keep you playing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol3.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
LowBridge
post Aug 21 2015, 05:53 PM
Post #19


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 359
Joined: 10-August 15
From: Lunenburg, MA
Member No.: 19,045
Region Association: North East States



couple of questions...

my oil pressure sender has 2 lugs and one lug seems to do nothing and the second lug shows a "green" dash light on oil when hooked up. is that correct and what is the other lug for?

now my console which as an oil pressure gauge is pegged from a constant 12v, so that one has me confused. I'm going to trace the 3 wire harness tomorrow and see where they go.

now back to the steering wheel, now when the car is running and it is on I have no hazards/directional/high beams. however when I take it off with the car running I get the hazard light to blink and both lights on the tach also flash, but no lights on the car blink. the directional does cause the lights on the tach work both no matter if I move it up (right) or down both blink and again no lights on the car change.

seems that I still have a ground issue on the column? and if so would it be a main ground?

also tonight my son and I got the trunk roller on the torsion bar... OMG that is not fun , but the trunk works perfect now. another small win (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap.gif)

also I ordered all new calipers/pads/pressure regulator and some new lines from PMB today.. what a fantastic group of people and a very big thank you again to Eric
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Dave_Darling
post Aug 21 2015, 08:44 PM
Post #20


914 Idiot
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 13,552
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Silly-con Valley, CA
Member No.: 121
Region Association: Northern California



Check the two pins on the sender. One should have 0 ohms to the outside of the sender. The other should have some resistance. When the engine is running and there is oil pressure, the one pin should have infinite resistance to the case of the sender, and the other pin should have some lower resistance than it had before.

The outside of the sender should be grounded. If it isn't, you will get weird readings.

Not sure about the other stuff, but if all the tach lights are blinking you have something hooked up wrong.

--DD
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

4 Pages V  1 2 3 > » 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 27th May 2018 - 06:13 AM