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> Project Home Coming 914 2.0, Ongoing Updates...
bandjoey
post Aug 21 2015, 08:58 PM
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Another thing to do is clean all of the grounds Brown wires Any car of this age has a lot of ground corrosion There is also a large ground strap on top of the transmission Go to Harbor freight or like and get the $10 Dremel tool For your son to have a good project Use the needle super Thin sharp Dremel tools to go inside the wire connections and sandpaper and wire tool bits for the body connectors This alone cures many electrical issues There are really not that many Headlights taillights fuse box License plate light Etc. good luck. More pictures. Welcome to madness! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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LowBridge
post Aug 22 2015, 03:30 PM
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update...

Found the ground/short problem (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif), it was the passengers front marker bulb,we check/cleaned I think every dam wire connection on the front harness (I Know its for the good of the car) and just never found anything that jumped out at us as a "PROBLEM". So slowly we have been eliminating one problem after another and this afternoon I started checking bulbs and BAM!!!

It looked like someone had dipped it in liquid corrosion, so about 30 minutes of cleaning/sanding and I give it the test.

well we now have headlights, running lights, hazards, turn signals, reverse lights, brake lights and light at the end of the tunnel (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

still no clue on the oil pressure gauge pigging once power is applied. I did follow your directions Dave and one lug is infinite resistance and the other one as about 14 ohms and that is the one I put the connection on.

I'll do some more checking but not really sure what more to look at.

also my order from 914rubber.com arrived, man what a great community this is with our members who add so much value (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif).

Going to get some dinner and start doing some more reading

also Bandjoey I'm going to get my son right on that transmission ground strap, I have read this as a point of problems in more than a few threads. thank you for reminding me to do that.
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LowBridge
post Aug 24 2015, 05:17 AM
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still no progress on the oil pressure gauge... anyone have a thought?

also only thing left on the lights are the high beams. currently they are on "high" and will not change to low. Not sure but the column lever seems to move back when I pull on it to switch it from high to low, but nothing happens.

do you think it could be the relay on the fuse panel or switch in the column?
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Dave_Darling
post Aug 24 2015, 04:29 PM
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The high/low relay is on top of the fuse panel; it is a suspect here. Check the wire from the switch to the relay (might be brown/yellow? don't have my references here at work!) to make sure it grounds when you pull the headlight lever back.

Does the infinite-resistance pole on the oil pressure sender go to 0 resistance when the oil pressure is zero? If so, that's the sender for the light. The resistance on the other post should change with oil pressure, which should vary with temperature (hotter == lower pressure) and RPM (higher == higher pressure). I think the resistance goes lower for higher pressure, but I could have that wrong.

Make sure the wires on the senders actually get to the warning light and the gauge. Also make sure the gauge has power. (That's a red/white wire that has +12V when the key is on.)

--DD
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LowBridge
post Aug 28 2015, 06:07 PM
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Dave you are the MAN (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) !!!! it was a bad relay, so new relay and BAM!!! lights, so my son and I took the car to a local Friday night car show/gathering and had a blast tonight.

we also chased down the short in the steering column. the 4 screws that hold the turn signal and wiper clusters in place have a funny problem. the top left screw when in place causes the whole column to short out. the other 3 are fine and for the life of me I can not see what is causing this problem (IMG:style_emoticons/default/help.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Dave_Darling
post Aug 28 2015, 06:21 PM
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The screw may be going through a wire or two, or may be causing wires to get crushed between some pieces when you tighten it.

--DD
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LowBridge
post Sep 27 2015, 11:41 AM
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ok finally found the electrical short in the steering column.. on the headlight cluster there is a small grounding tab that connects this circuit to the steering column and it was broken so that it sometimes worked and other times not so much..

wow that was a real pain to trouble shoot.

We have started to rebuild both the rear and front suspensions because the passengers side swing arm bushings are completely worn out (big movement in the wheel) and after really looking at everything else I noticed that parts I put on the suspension back in the 80"s are still on it.

So everything most go (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) , however I do have a question about removing the front control arm knowing there is a torsion bar in there. with the car up on stands is this bar under load? I'm thinking it is and if so will jacking the arm up level with ride height release this load?

Or better yet, what's the simple way to remove them?

Now on to the picture.. the PO told me he had replaced the fuel line and I have now looked at it... the PO used standard hardware store aluminum tubing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

also notice how they used a grommet at the fire wall where the line is rubbing metal on metal (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) and the same grommet was used where it passes through the engine tin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif), so fire was just a matter of time.


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1443375711.1.jpg)

next question/picture is the master cylinder, I know the PO replaced the front calipers with some type of Volvo caliper and we have replaced them with PMB ones ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) ) but the peddle is still super soft even after tons of bleeding and no bubbles showing.

So I'm not sure how to tell what size or even if the master cylinder is correct. We also have a flex when my son presses the brake peddle and I'm under the car looking at the master. I did find this website where they make a brace (Master Cylinder Brace

however here are a few pictures on the master cylinder

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1443375711.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i219.photobucket.com-19045-1443375712.3.jpg)

thoughts?
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914Sixer
post Sep 27 2015, 01:07 PM
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Could be a MB or BMW master cylinder. Either case it is too large for stock brakes.
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LowBridge
post Oct 6 2015, 12:36 PM
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does anyone know the preset angles for the front control arm after replacing the bushing or does it not matter? I see on the elephant racing video they reference it but do not list it and I cannot seem to find anything on the forms about it.

also any thoughts on the master cylinder?

as always thanks in advance...
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mrholland2
post Oct 6 2015, 05:44 PM
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QUOTE(914Sixer @ Sep 27 2015, 12:07 PM) *

Could be a MB or BMW master cylinder. Either case it is too large for stock brakes.


But didn't he have Volvo or some other calipers??
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LowBridge
post Oct 6 2015, 05:54 PM
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Yes he had used an unknown set of Volvo calipers on the front that did not line up correctly. It was a very odd swap that just did not look correct/safe so I made the call to go back to OEM.

QUOTE(mrholland2 @ Oct 6 2015, 07:44 PM) *

QUOTE(914Sixer @ Sep 27 2015, 12:07 PM) *

Could be a MB or BMW master cylinder. Either case it is too large for stock brakes.


But didn't he have Volvo or some other calipers??

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LowBridge
post Oct 12 2015, 05:24 AM
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who does or can suggest someone who handles 914 alignments around the MA area? I have the suspension back on and need to get it aligned.
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Dave_Darling
post Oct 12 2015, 09:26 AM
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If you can get it to Tangerine Racing in CT...

--DD
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LowBridge
post Oct 12 2015, 03:56 PM
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thanks Dave and I did see on their website but I'd like to find something closer as they are about 2 hours from me and the car would need to be trailered down and that comes with it's own set of logistics as I have nether the trailer or tow vehicle.

hoping to find someone that I can make the short drive to after I have "eyeballed" the alignment (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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LowBridge
post Nov 9 2015, 06:51 AM
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So the car is coming along nicely with our effort to inspect and replace as needed for ware.

Brakes front/rear replaced (PMB what a great place).. check
front suspension bushings replaced.. check
front bearings inspected and repacked... check
ball joints/tie rods replaced.. check
front/rear shocks inspected.. this winter to replace
rear bushings replaced... OMG, rightside inner was almost completely gone.. check
rear bearings.. seem to be good, no noise or play.. check
drive shafts inspected and looking good.. check

On the alignment front my local Sears Automotive has a tech who has worked on 914's before and can do the alignment as long as I have the shims and for a cost of $89, I'm going to give it a try before I trailer the car 2hrs into CT.

however after reading the manual on ride height adjustments, I was wondering how much lower than factory can I bring the front down without really impacting the suspension geometry?

I have set it and everything is looking good, but the factory rake seems to have the car sitting nose up and doing some reading here this seems to be the standard.

So looking to the vets here to give me some feedback because I'm thinking 1/2 - 3/4 down from factory should not have to much of an impact on the suspension geometry and improve the look/handling.

thoughts?
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LowBridge
post Dec 11 2015, 04:54 PM
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I'm looking to install a 4-point harness using the cross bar which bolts behind the seats in the shoulder belt pivot point on the B pillar. However I cannot find them, does anyone have a link or has the practice of attaching shoulder belts this way evolved to something different?

progress update.. brakes (PMB), electrical, suspension (PMB) and new window trim (914rubber) all completed. The winter projects are new front windshield, remove and reinstall with new rubber rear window, replace jack points (they are already removed) and install 4 point harness for both sides.

my son is loving driving the car on every clear sunny day and we have been very lucky this year in New England with above normal temps.
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wndsnd
post Dec 11 2015, 08:53 PM
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Glad to see you have made so much progress. I was just reading the thread and you did really well sorting out the wiring mess and got great advice from Dave and others. Now that it is driving, I will re suggest taking a run down to Chris and Ed at Tangerine in CT. They are masters at setting up suspensions among other things and can make a good car great.

The northeast has quite a few driving 914's, and if you and your son get really enthusiastic, you should think about making the run with us down to Hershey April 2016. There is already a thread going for 2016 so check it out.

Traveling in a pack makes the drive go quickly and there are a lot of spare hands and tools if something goes awry.

Hope to meet you guys soon.
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Dave_Darling
post Dec 11 2015, 08:58 PM
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Don't do four-points. Submarining is a thing, and even if you don't slip out from under the belt, there's nothing to keep the buckle from turning edge-on into your gut. Which is kinda bad for you if you actually need the belt.

Use the stock three-point belts, they're plenty good for the street.

If you're going on the track, Step Zero is to RTFR--Read The Rulebook. Very few places will let you run with four-points. Five- or six-points are the way to go; the single or dual sub straps keep the belt down around your hips where it belongs. But a lot of places require a seat with built-in pass-throughs for the belts (professionally built seats, not home-modified stock seats) if you're using multi-point restraints.

I have six-points that I installed many years ago. I used a harness bar to mount the upper belts, and eye-bolts in the stock belt holes to mount the lap belts and dual sub straps. It would not pass tech today; the shoulder belts need to be attached to the firewall and only pass over the harness bar, and only one belt is allowed to be attached to any single point so the sub straps wouldn't fly either. And I have stock seats with no pass-throughs. (Even though the belts don't go through the seat when I'm sitting in it.)

Use the stock three-point belts, they're a whole lot simpler.

--DD
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steuspeed
post Dec 12 2015, 12:36 AM
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Now that you have your lights working properly, this is a great little mod. You can run your fog lights while the pop ups are down. This is great for cruising near dusk or just adding a little more visibility. It's plug and play. No modifications required. You can also flash fellow teeners you see on the road.

http://www.jwesteng.com/shop/electrical-91...ht-module.html#
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LowBridge
post Dec 12 2015, 02:06 PM
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QUOTE(steuspeed @ Dec 12 2015, 01:36 AM) *

Now that you have your lights working properly, this is a great little mod. You can run your fog lights while the pop ups are down. This is great for cruising near dusk or just adding a little more visibility. It's plug and play. No modifications required. You can also flash fellow teeners you see on the road.

http://www.jwesteng.com/shop/electrical-91...ht-module.html#


I have seen this and was wondering if it was worth installing. thanks for the recommendation.

any help in the cross bar?
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