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> Heat From Oil Cooler?, ....can it be done?
7TPorsh
post Aug 20 2015, 12:16 PM
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Kinda philosophical this morning.

For a car with headers and no heat. Can an enclosure be made around an external oil cooler to blow air through it and into the cabin? I think it gets hot enough. Anyone try this?
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SirAndy
post Aug 20 2015, 12:33 PM
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Cap off the heater tubes in the back, add a front mounted oil cooler with good air flow.
Build an enclosed shroud to exit the air out the top.
Add openings into the shroud to divert some of the air to the heater valves in the cowl area. (Using flexible heater hoses)

That allows you to use the stock dash controls to add hot air to your dash vents.
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rhodyguy
post Aug 20 2015, 01:25 PM
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i think you will build in some stink.
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CodyBFR
post Aug 20 2015, 01:39 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 20 2015, 02:33 PM) *

Cap off the heater tubes in the back, add a front mounted oil cooler with good air flow.
Build an enclosed shroud to exit the air out the top.
Add openings into the shroud to divert some of the air to the heater valves in the cowl area. (Using flexible heater hoses)

That allows you to use the stock dash controls to add hot air to your dash vents.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)



At that rate just put an appropriate sized second oil cooler in a modified fresh air blower housing and use a ball valve or some such to divert flow from the primary cooler as needed. Would only involve two oil lines which would be easier to run than all that ducting. Then the stock fresh air blower fan works to pull air through the cowl and your "heater core".
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7TPorsh
post Aug 20 2015, 02:36 PM
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I am thinking something like this on both sides, mounted in the engine compartment, passenger's side as a secondary cooler to the stock one. I have a header that flows to the driver's side so passenger side has space.

When I want heat, just blow air through the cooler into the cabin through the longs...don't have controls, etc.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revotec-Oil-Cool...s-/300858528978

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SirAndy
post Aug 20 2015, 02:49 PM
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QUOTE(JohnBFR @ Aug 20 2015, 12:39 PM) *
At that rate just put an appropriate sized second oil cooler in a modified fresh air blower housing and use a ball valve or some such to divert flow from the primary cooler as needed. Would only involve two oil lines which would be easier to run than all that ducting. Then the stock fresh air blower fan works to pull air through the cowl and your "heater core".

At that rate, you'd lose your fresh air intake, which i'm quite fond of on those balmy CA summer days.
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7TPorsh
post Aug 20 2015, 03:09 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 20 2015, 01:49 PM) *

QUOTE(JohnBFR @ Aug 20 2015, 12:39 PM) *
At that rate just put an appropriate sized second oil cooler in a modified fresh air blower housing and use a ball valve or some such to divert flow from the primary cooler as needed. Would only involve two oil lines which would be easier to run than all that ducting. Then the stock fresh air blower fan works to pull air through the cowl and your "heater core".

At that rate, you'd lose your fresh air intake, which i'm quite fond of on those balmy CA summer days.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)


Car is a '70; barely any air as it is; no vents.
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SirAndy
post Aug 20 2015, 03:36 PM
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QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Aug 20 2015, 02:09 PM) *
Car is a '70; barely any air as it is; no vents.

Wut? No vents except the ones aimed STRAIGHT at the windshield!
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Two or even 3 if you have the center vent. Mine is a '70 as well ...
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CodyBFR
post Aug 20 2015, 03:46 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 20 2015, 04:49 PM) *

QUOTE(JohnBFR @ Aug 20 2015, 12:39 PM) *
At that rate just put an appropriate sized second oil cooler in a modified fresh air blower housing and use a ball valve or some such to divert flow from the primary cooler as needed. Would only involve two oil lines which would be easier to run than all that ducting. Then the stock fresh air blower fan works to pull air through the cowl and your "heater core".

At that rate, you'd lose your fresh air intake, which i'm quite fond of on those balmy CA summer days.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)



Negative, simply close the ball valve to divert oil flow to the primary oil cooler. You would then draw fresh air through the same path, but the cooler wouldn't be hot. This is how the heat works on water cooled cars.
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patssle
post Aug 20 2015, 03:51 PM
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I thought about doing this for my 6 conversion but don't forget that it takes 10 to 15 minutes for oil to get to operating temperature.
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damesandhotrods
post Aug 20 2015, 04:08 PM
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The basic problem I see with trying to recover the heat from the oil cooler is that the air exiting the cooler is going to be hot when you don’t want heat and not so hot when you do want heat…
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euro911
post Aug 20 2015, 04:36 PM
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Another (and cleaner) option is a high amperage alternator and an electric heater, and/or seat heating pads (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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campbellcj
post Aug 20 2015, 05:36 PM
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Even better - a nice fleece jacket or hoodie...or your nomex jammies if you're a track junkie. Sometimes it's in the 20's when we get to Willow Springs in the morning. That'll wake ya up at 6:30AM.
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Dave_Darling
post Aug 20 2015, 10:41 PM
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It can work, but I don't believe it will ever work that well.

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914_teener
post Aug 21 2015, 01:11 PM
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QUOTE(damesandhotrods @ Aug 20 2015, 03:08 PM) *

The basic problem I see with trying to recover the heat from the oil cooler is that the air exiting the cooler is going to be hot when you don’t want heat and not so hot when you do want heat…



I was waiting for somebody to say this.
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7TPorsh
post Aug 21 2015, 01:28 PM
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QUOTE(914_teener @ Aug 21 2015, 12:11 PM) *

QUOTE(damesandhotrods @ Aug 20 2015, 03:08 PM) *

The basic problem I see with trying to recover the heat from the oil cooler is that the air exiting the cooler is going to be hot when you don’t want heat and not so hot when you do want heat…



I was waiting for somebody to say this.


Exiting air can go through a diverter valve an

Or maybe, put the fan on the other side and suck air through cooler and into the cabin when needed. Turn the fan off when not needed. Combination of the two and you can suck hot or cool air in. through the longs and into what ever vents system you have.

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damesandhotrods
post Aug 21 2015, 01:41 PM
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When the weather is hot, you have hot oil going through the oil cooler and hot air coming out of the oil cooler which is great for heating. But when it is cold and you need the heat…
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SirAndy
post Aug 21 2015, 03:26 PM
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QUOTE(damesandhotrods @ Aug 21 2015, 12:41 PM) *

When the weather is hot, you have hot oil going through the oil cooler and hot air coming out of the oil cooler which is great for heating. But when it is cold and you need the heat…

Do you actually have a remote oil cooler on your car? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I'm running my oil lines trough the inside of the cabin on the passenger side and i can assure you they radiate A LOT of heat, even in cold weather.
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914_teener
post Aug 21 2015, 03:43 PM
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Ok....I"ll touch this since Andy brought it up, and I got flamed on that air con. thread.

Why not use the hot or warm oil with a bypass valve with a copper coil inside the seat.

Forget the air heat transfer from the oil cooler

When you don't want it, bypass the oil coil from the seat to your cooler.

At least your arse will be warm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Glad you are driving more Andy.
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SirAndy
post Aug 21 2015, 03:57 PM
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QUOTE(914_teener @ Aug 21 2015, 02:43 PM) *
At least your arse will be warm

I like a warm butt as much as the next guy but what i really miss in my car is warm air to the back of the windshield.

Right now, all i have is fresh outside air. I'd like to be able to use the stock air controls on the dash to direct warm air to the windshield.

I also have a front mounted cooler that produces a lot of hot air.

Seems like an obvious choice to be able to direct that air into the already existing air valves under the cowl.
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