Time to move on, Where to start??? |
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Time to move on, Where to start??? |
catsltd |
Aug 28 2015, 07:49 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 181 Joined: 7-June 15 From: Calgary Alberta Member No.: 18,814 Region Association: None |
Got the car running tip top.
Replaced coil,plugs.injectors,old rubber hoses,etc. Now I am down to my biggest remaining problem:Oil Leaks. When I had the car in to shop getting fucked up,they told me these were the areas that had leaks. Rear Main seal. Oil leaking from head(cylinder seal),I am assuming head gasket. Differential side seals.(Probably NOT RELATED???). The car is running great,but it is loosing a lot of oil through these leaks. Questions: 1.Can I fix these thing without removing the engine???(This is the last thing I want to do). 2. Where do I start. Thanks for any suggestions. Grant. |
billh1963 |
Aug 28 2015, 07:59 AM
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#2
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Car Hoarder! Group: Members Posts: 3,402 Joined: 28-March 11 From: South Carolina Member No.: 12,871 Region Association: South East States |
Pull the engine....it's really not that bad.
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bandjoey |
Aug 28 2015, 08:00 AM
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#3
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bandjoey Group: Members Posts: 4,923 Joined: 26-September 07 From: Bedford Tx Member No.: 8,156 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I would suggest. Get a bottle and sprayer of Simple Green bio degreaser and the garden hose. Spray it down and scrub it off clean. This stuff will fade paint if left on. Drive, take pictures of the leaks. U might just find out the common every car leaks are the pushrods tubes and oil cooler. Both easy to fix in the car. Post the pictures and we'll give u a way to go. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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catsltd |
Aug 28 2015, 08:25 AM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 181 Joined: 7-June 15 From: Calgary Alberta Member No.: 18,814 Region Association: None |
I would suggest. Get a bottle and sprayer of Simple Green bio degreaser and the garden hose. Spray it down and scrub it off clean. This stuff will fade paint if left on. Drive, take pictures of the leaks. U might just find out the common every car leaks are the pushrods tubes and oil cooler. Both easy to fix in the car. Post the pictures and we'll give u a way to go. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) This sounds like A GREAT IDEA. I will post pictures once I remove all the crude. If I drop the motor I will be done driving for the year,and I am not ready for that yet. So I will see where the pictures take me for now. |
Dave_Darling |
Aug 28 2015, 08:58 AM
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#5
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,981 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
In our cars, the head gasket only separates the combustion chamber from the outside air. There are no oil passages that it seals at all. So if oil is coming from the head/cylinder joint, it is dripping from somewhere else.
RMS is replaced by removing the transmission. Diff cover seal is replaced by removing the cover. The other leak is probably on the top side of the engine; possibly the oil breather hose where it connects with the cylinder head. --DD |
john77 |
Aug 28 2015, 09:35 AM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 621 Joined: 21-February 14 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 17,027 Region Association: Southern California |
Is it the diff shaft seals? I did these a couple of weeks ago. I only just started working on my own car, and they were very easy to do.
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catsltd |
Aug 28 2015, 04:24 PM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 181 Joined: 7-June 15 From: Calgary Alberta Member No.: 18,814 Region Association: None |
I have no confidence in the company that told me where my oil leaks are located.
So I will clean the motor and tranny of all oil,and then watch to see where it is dripping down from. I told the shop I was going through a lot of oil,they said its time for a rebuild. I suggested I should fix all my oil leaks before I decide on whether or not I need my motor rebuilt. Anyway Im off work Sunday so Ill get some pictures. Thanks for all the suggestions,but I better find out exactly what is leaking before I figure out whether I can do it without dropping the motor. Thanks. |
stugray |
Aug 28 2015, 05:20 PM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,824 Joined: 17-September 09 From: Longmont, CO Member No.: 10,819 Region Association: None |
Rear Main seal. You 'can' remove the transmission without removing the engine and replace the engine rear main seal. If you have FI, it is less work than removing the engine & trans as a whole. If you have carbs, I believe it is about the same effort. If you go that route, you would: Disconnect all electrical to the trans/starter. Remove the exhaust, shift linkage, and clutch cable disconnect the axles at the trans end and tie them up out of the way. (if you screw this up and the balls fall out of the cages, no need to panic) loosen all the engine mount bolts (2X engine bar, 2X rear of trans) support the engine in the rear of the case crack the 4X bolts that hold the trans to the engine remove the rear trans bolts & lower the engine while tipping the trans down remove the 4X trans to case bolts Slide the trans off ( almost need a transmission jack ~$50 at harbor fr.) BLOCK up the engine - do not leave it on a hydraulic jack. remove the clutch measure endplay, if you dare (this gives a good indication of how "tired" the motor is) remove the flywheel pull the old Rear seal install new seal and replace a few cheap FW parts reverse above to put trans back on. Oil leaking from head(cylinder seal),I am assuming head gasket. Most likely the valve cover gaskets and/or the push rod tube gaskets. Both of these can be replaced in a couple of hours and you would need to set the valves afterwards. Differential side seals.(Probably NOT RELATED???). These come out easily and can be replaced without pulling the "core" from the trans. You can do it without removing the trans, but you still need to disconnect the axles & remove the output shafts While the trans is off doing the rear main do the 2X output shaft seals and 1X input shaft seal |
bandjoey |
Aug 28 2015, 05:40 PM
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#9
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bandjoey Group: Members Posts: 4,923 Joined: 26-September 07 From: Bedford Tx Member No.: 8,156 Region Association: Southwest Region |
O yes Dave brought up the breather hoses I forgot. Oil vapor return hoses from air breather down to the heads on top of the tin. Hose clamp slips or an old hose and it makes an oil mess.
(Pic borrowed from someone's oil thread) search is a 914 friend Attached image(s) |
EdwardBlume |
Aug 29 2015, 05:03 AM
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#10
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 12,338 Joined: 2-January 03 From: SLO Member No.: 81 Region Association: Central California |
A head leak is typically push rod tube seals, unless you have a cracked head.
RMS is best done with the engine pulled. Agree with not that hard. Define how much oil is leaking. They all leak, its just how much and where. Dad's car had a cracked head and I drove it with a massive oil leak. Just didn't drive hard near any rollers. |
r_towle |
Aug 29 2015, 07:42 AM
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#11
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,569 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Pull the motor and do what we call a re seal.
Oil gets blown from a few key places to make it look like it's coming from the heads. Oil cooler Oil pressure switch Head vents. Push rod tube seals. F/r main seals Oil cap, oil filler gasket Obvious is your valve cover gaskets. Not so obvious (go look) is the valve cover needs to be installed with the VW logo upside down....or it will not seal properly. Your mechanic may have chosen to put it on the other way without knowing these motors. When you remove the engine, remove the engine tin and clean up the fins with wire brushes, some liquid to dissolve the old oil and nests you will find. Get those fins all clean and your motor will run a lot cooler This is really a weekend project. Allow about 4-5 hours the first time you remove the engine to learn how. Do it on the floor with a dolly and two tall floor jacks, with two Jack stands. There are how to threads, and videos out there to show you how....it's not terribly hard. After a few times, it's 45 minutes with. Coffee break. |
bdstone914 |
Aug 29 2015, 09:23 AM
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#12
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bdstone914 Group: Members Posts: 4,514 Joined: 8-November 03 From: Riverside CA Member No.: 1,319 |
Don't forget the push rod seals. When you pull the flywheel look at the oil galley plugs. They have been known to leak or blowout. If they leak the common fix is to add threaded plugs. Must be done carefully to not get metal shaving in the oil passages.
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Dave_Darling |
Aug 29 2015, 09:42 AM
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#13
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,981 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
The old-school fix for the gallery plugs is to goop JB Weld over them before they leak. That helps keep them in place and greatly reduces the chances of a leak or a blowout. (Odds of that are pretty low anyway, but it only takes once...)
Threading for plugs is best done when the engine is apart, so you can clean out any shavings you create. I know very careful people have managed to thread the bores without leaving any chips or shavings, but I'd rather not take the risk. (Again, it only has to happen once.) --DD |
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