jim kelly's 1975 914 suby build, water pump housing and header interference ??? Options

[jimkelly]

well. i added the 12" piece of exhaust pipe and then decided to ATTEMPT TO weld the bung on. bad idea. ordered a tap.

[jimkelly]

a downside of making the coupler yourself is that it will UNLIKELY slide right on with no pressure. thus getting it off one day could be a bitch. a bremar for $175 beans might be easily removable.

wanted to button up trans but realized i never order 10-1.25 20mm bolts for thin cover (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[jimkelly]

so the consensus is to not use a bell crank?

and to go at the trans from the side for side to side motion.

I think the bell crank version allows for 2 the same length cables, attractive to me.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_e9jk6z83k



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncmaxYd1WNI


and another version


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1DyhcQuiJQ

[jimkelly]

SOB, my trans does not have the threaded bungs on it, like ian designed his set up for, which i was attempting to recreate. now i need to fab up something quite different.

only realized this when i pull out trans to measure holes to drill holes in braket to final size (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

i guess i'll make a plate that attached with 4 trans cover plate bolts, that wraps around the side of the trans?

or maybe i will weld a bracket onto the coldwater trans hanger drivers side?

[76-914]

.........or you could chunk the bell cranks and go with 2 different length cables! And does your wife know that you find the same length cables attractive? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[jimkelly]

she has always suspected (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

also, at my work they have/had two 90" push pull cables 1/4-28 that have been in deep dusty storage for years. I just dusted them off for my project and thus will go with bell crank, at least initially.

lastly, my plan for a mr2 shifter mount. bottom flat steel plate with slots for forward backward movement using the 3 stock 914 mounting holes, and this plate will have 2" offsets that the shifter will be bolted or welded to.

.........or you could chunk the bell cranks and go with 2 different length cables! And does your wife know that you find the same length cables attractive? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[jimkelly]

obviously a chnge of plan, decide to bend thinner metal instead.

i need to now add the 3 slots.

needless to say, needed a bunch o changes.

correct sized bung 18x1.5 on exhaust.

[jimkelly]

so kent (76-914) ran his push pull cables right thru the big hole, hum : )

[76-914]

so kent (76-914) ran his push pull cables right thru the big hole, hum : )

What was I supposed to do? It winked at me! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[Andyrew]

so kent (76-914) ran his push pull cables right thru the big hole, hum : )

What was I supposed to do? It winked at me! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

I did the same thing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I mean it is the shifter hole isnt it?

[jimkelly]

just found this helpful pic

and another

and the original

and a custom version of coldwater's

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...mp;hl=coldwater

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...baru&st=100

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=258603&hl=

[jimkelly]

and for then I get to exhaust for engine IN CAR it seems apmech used a header like this with coldwater cradle.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...baru&st=100

[jimkelly]

ok. laid my shifter assy in my car and sat down next to it. seems I will want to mount it another 2-3" rearward. time to weld on another piece of steel and drill 2 new holes.

[76-914]

Jim, you might look at heating and bending it back a bit, first. Your already rear of the original shifter location. Personally, I like the short throw. IIRC, Chris used an extension to meet his needs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[JRust]

ok. laid my shifter assy in my car and sat down next to it. seems I will want to mount it another 2-3" rearward. time to weld on another piece of steel and drill 2 new holes.

I would consider raising it up as well. When you sat in the car & shifted. Did it seem to be height wise in position. I had changed mine from it original spot which was right next to my knee for shifting. I brought it up 3" & it was better but when I reinstall with my new setup. I think it will be closer to 5-6" higher. Makes for quick steering to shift transition. Plus you get to make your center console higher. Which makes the arm rest in an actual comfortable spot. Anyway my 2 cents which is about all its worth (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

[jimkelly]

getting me a new tool (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[jimkelly]

making some linkage progress.

another variable are the cables being different from brand to brand. clearly i need to lengthen my bracket cause once i add rod ends, i will need more length in bracket.

[Andyrew]

getting me a new tool (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Got one, Wish I got it way earlier!!

[jimkelly]

making a little more shifter progress. should be able to test tomorow. see that one little tack holding the rear assy to the trans hanger (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) which is obscurred by a leg of my test stand.

i have to say, i should work slower and check for straightness far more often and i would would love to use more stainless steel but mild steel is so much easier to cut and drill. fwiw.

oh yeah, seems many push pull cables are threaded for 1/4-28 and a few couplers and rod ends will be needed of same thread.

lastly i have to say HOLY SHIT to ian at coldwater for his amazing talent to develop the system he did. truly stunning craftsmanship (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) my craftsmanship is more like craftsmanshit compared (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[jimkelly]

i am one rod end away from testing the shifter OUT OF CAR.

i will have a video for you guys (NO GIRLS) tomorrow : )