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> jim kelly's 1975 914 suby build, water pump housing and header interference ???
mepstein
post May 24 2017, 08:38 PM
Post #161


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I just came across this - http://zerodecibelmotorsports.com/products...mechanism-5spd/
Not cheap at $300 but an option if coldwater isn't going to make more shifter kits.


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jimkelly
post May 24 2017, 08:55 PM
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wow, nice.

seems gate for 5th and reverse is spring loaded,and i am having some issues.

1st and 2nd not.

not sure i was really in 5th and reverse.

pushing forward on shifter feels better engagement, than pulling back.

also feels like it wants to jump past neutral and on to next gear in same gate but maybe it is just a matter of getting used to it?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zE_UYPzY8Ss
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jimkelly
post May 26 2017, 04:24 PM
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seems like a good price for push pull cables on ebay.

I mention this cause there seems to be empirical data suggesting that shifting the gates is done much better using a long cable coming to trans from the side. ie: dbcooper and many others. so I think one 90" and one 120" are probably the best cable lengths to use.
ref: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=102887

search this:

Steinjager Shifter Cables, Push-Pull 1/4-28 90 Inches Long Bulkhead Style

or

Steinjager Shifter Cables, Push-Pull 1/4-28 120 Inches Long Bulkhead Style


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76-914
post May 26 2017, 07:35 PM
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Jim, if your going this route check my build thread. I listed the lengths there, Maybe it was 9' & 7.5' but I'm not sure. Less moving parts = reliability! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Amenson
post May 27 2017, 08:01 AM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ May 24 2017, 09:55 PM) *

wow, nice.

seems gate for 5th and reverse is spring loaded,and i am having some issues.

1st and 2nd not.

not sure i was really in 5th and reverse.

pushing forward on shifter feels better engagement, than pulling back.

also feels like it wants to jump past neutral and on to next gear in same gate but maybe it is just a matter of getting used to it?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zE_UYPzY8Ss



There is a lockout for reverse so you can't go from fifth to reverse until returning to the 3/4 location. Looks like that was your issue.
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jimkelly
post May 27 2017, 08:00 PM
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son of a gun (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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jimkelly
post May 28 2017, 01:30 PM
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i'm starting to wonder if this cradle (sawtooth's) could be made even simpler with long sections reaching all the way to the trans hanger section. I also wonder if the cross bar needs some amount of bump up to allow easier passage for exhaust.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1404662

though I see lots of guys doing turbo thus turbo routed exhausts. though sawtooth's header solution seems to fit beautifully.


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jimkelly
post May 29 2017, 08:17 PM
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picked up a 1997 legacy 5spd awd trans today for $100. it has the 2 bungs on its side.
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jimkelly
post May 30 2017, 02:35 PM
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guess i'll buy a microsquirt harness and start wiring it up. relays and ignition switch and all. guess i'll start by writing down all the colors of the wires that come out of all my sensors, injectors, etc, and figure out what goes where.

here is an image of many of my plugs.


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jimkelly
post May 31 2017, 04:55 PM
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i think this brit is giving me the correct firing order of the coil?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgJy-mJ2xyE


and ordered a shift knob 12mm 1.25 $12 ebay



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jimkelly
post Jun 7 2017, 11:23 AM
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guys. i know you are some smart fellas. how do i check this vw coil to figure out what spark plug wire holes are on each bank and figure out what electrical pins are for each bank?

is there some sort of continuity test i can do that won't cause possible damage to the coil?

also, my plug to the coil has one fat wire NOT at the 12v supply pin. i should probably move it to the 12v supply pin, right?


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jimkelly
post Jun 9 2017, 11:42 AM
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with or without you guys, i am gonna figure out, the pin out, of my tps. then i need to figure out the pin out and the spark out of my vw coil (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)



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timothy_nd28
post Jun 9 2017, 12:43 PM
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Looks like the TPS pin 2 ties to the microsquirts gnd and pin 3 ties to the microsquirts 5v ref. That leaves you with pin 4 that goes to the microsquirts TPS signal wire. Looks like pin 1 will not be used, its a idle switch that the microsquirt doesn't support.

Toward the ignition coil, I would bench test this to see what's what. It looks like the coil needs a pull up signal to fire a certain bank. I would use a car battery to supply the 12volts to the coil, and also have the microsquirt powered up so you could temporarily borrow its 5volt ref voltage to tap either bank 1 or bank 2 signal input, then observe which banks fire.
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jimkelly
post Jun 9 2017, 12:56 PM
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thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


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timothy_nd28
post Jun 9 2017, 01:07 PM
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TPS pin 1---not used
TPS pin 2 ties to Microsquirts pin 20 (GND)
TPS pin 3 ties to Microsquirts pin 28 (5v ref)
TPS pin 4 ties to Microsquirts pin 27 (tps signal)

You may want to verify this by following the instructions here:

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jimkelly
post Jun 9 2017, 01:23 PM
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tim, i will.

next up, the vw coil.

diy provides this for pin out put i don't know which two spark holes are paired and i don't know which two are 1-3 and 3-4.

MY BAD, DIY DOES PROVIDE MORE INFO ON COIL.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Micros...are-3.4-62.html

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Micros...are-3.4-63.html


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jimkelly
post Jun 9 2017, 02:29 PM
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revised collage


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timothy_nd28
post Jun 9 2017, 02:47 PM
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are you setting up both crank and cam signals? Does microsquirt allow both functions?
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jimkelly
post Jun 9 2017, 02:59 PM
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not sure if it allows for both but i am not using a cam sensor. not needed as i understand it.

i did just notice a conflict on what pins to use for the cylinders on diy microsquirt page.

http://www.useasydocs.com/details/wire.htm


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timothy_nd28
post Jun 9 2017, 03:11 PM
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you can solve this discrepancy by buying the sequential injection upgrade kit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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