jim kelly's 1975 914 suby build, water pump housing and header interference ??? Options

[jimkelly]

next week i will start wiring it up using wire nuts at all connections. a base map will be the last issue unless it is not needed and the autotune will create one.

[jimkelly]

toying with the idea of making cradles that include trans hangers and maybe cable shift brackets too.

trying to keep it simple with a minimum of different materials. should be able to make most pieces from 1.5" mild steel square tube 1/8" thick, and a tiny bit of 2" angle for the ends, and a little bit of 3" square tube for engine mounts.

the scraps used in my pic are 1" and 2", so ignore them sizewise (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

stealing ideas from ian, sawtooth, and japnovak.

[Piledriver]

Looks like you are well along with things...
For the uS install...
Do consider the sequential fuel kit.
It matters... Not hugely, but it matters, and the uS can use two inputs, or use a cam speed missing tooth wheel as a single input, supports sequential.
Sequential spark NBD. Fuel makes a difference, and you have the trim and timing adjustment in MS2E/uS.
If it was a MS3 you would have per cylinder timing trim etc, but really no reason to go sequential spark on MS2.

Skip the wire nuts and pick up a good, adjustable ratcheting crimper with NON-insulated crimp dies, and a few boxes of various sizes 50pk of the hot-melt glue lined splices and terminals.
I like the Paladin crimper with the angled handle, YMMV.
The insulation is very thin on those splices so the non-insulated die work very well.
The hot melt glue takes care of sealing the possible hole from the bump in the die, and you get a solid crimp every time.

If you are crimping on the "F" type pins and inserting into the connectors, rather than slicing pigtails, you need WAY fewer splices, and need the matching die... A decent quality stand alone crimper for GM Weatherpak (with multiple nests) may be cheaper than the die, and may actually work better.

Why is it showing I only have two posts???? Has been awhile since i logged in here...

[jimkelly]

piledriver

way to go with those 2 whole posts : )

and thanks for chiming in.

no budget for any extras and the wire nuts are just to get my test engine running on test stand. i plan on all kinds of nice connections when the thing finally goes in a car.

need to get a few more fuse panels.

[jimkelly]

some progress

[jimkelly]

update - 22 degrees +-

gonna mate it to engine tonight (hope my engine mount holes are rightish) and try to establish location of trans area cross over tube.

rear cross bar oriented and welded on. everything in pics in now fully welded.

need to weld bar to brackets i made for trans.

[jimkelly]

my design will incorporate trans hangers for suby trans and,

i am thinking about incorporating push pull cable brackets into the cradle as well.

my thought was that a specific design would allow buyers to know:
exactly which cables to buy, Steinjager Shifter Cables on ebay, $60 each +-
exactly what to cut stock 914 axles to, by dutchman, for $150 or so.

any thoughts ???

i was thinking of making the mass produced version out of stainless, but stainless is more money and machining is more work, but wouldn't need paint or powder coating.

[mepstein]

my design will incorporate trans hangers for suby trans and,

i am thinking about incorporating push pull cable brackets into the cradle as well.

my thought was that a specific design would allow buyers to know:
exactly which cables to buy
exactly what to cut axles to by dutchman

any thoughts ???

i was thinking of making the mass produced version out of stainless, but stainless is more money and machining is more work, but wouldn't need paint or powder coating.

Ask Ben / MB911 he knows a thing or two about stainless.

[jimkelly]

it weights 28 lbs +-

i'm gonna see how it fits in my car tomorrow.

my boss is riding my ass for not using ROUND tube but i feel square tube makes fabrication easier.

[jd74914]

my boss is riding my ass for not using tube but i feel square tube makes fabrication easier.

Nothing wrong with square tube. It's stiffer in the vertical direction where most load is being carried anyways. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[mgp4591]

I like the idea of the "kit" type development - it offers a lot to the new conversion (or should I say, converted!) projects by taking the guesswork out of it with proven designs. With a few modifications it will fit every engine in the Suby lineup and as long as the tranny stays in the same spot the axles will work. Nice job!

[jimkelly]

just tested cradle in my car and found trans hangers are about 1" short. other than that, all seems pretty good.

did have to install the rear motor style mounts for trans and did end up using shorter fatter bolts, as long bolts blocked install.

the 2' x 2' stainless steel bar you see, is temporary, it is tacked to where trans should be, I tacked there to take up the height the trans would take if it were installed.

if I ever begin to mass produce these I will take greater care to keep my electrode pointy and make my metal clean. these two things improve the welds dramatically.

next up I will redo rear hangers 1" taller. and then look at designing shift linkage brackets that can be welded to cradle.

[jimkelly]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJBaruDcQq0

[jimkelly]

the engine on my test stand has 2 bad cylinders, so my son and I attempted to remove the good engine from my 1990 legacy automatic (bad auto trans), but the thing I thought would be the easiest, turned out to stump us. I think trans was getting caught up on cross member. so saving final pull out for an upcoming weekend.

need to find out is removing the 4 or so bolts on trans, release it from engine or if there are bolts, like the svx has on flexplate that hold it too to engine?

also, it seems, from what I read on WWW, I can use an early 1990s flywheel clutch etc to mate my 1990 engine to my 1998 trans?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/...ission-removal/

car is available - for free.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2460-1474546504.jpg)

[jimkelly]

it turns out that shipping a fully welded cradle, 40x48x8 33 lbs costs $200 from va to az.

now i'm thinking of mabe offering them unwelded in four places, and shipping them in four pieces, to save on shipping costs. i assume most of us have a buddy who can weld (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

started making a jig and getting my angles correct. as my first one had room for improvement (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

i am also considering welding a flat plate here, a gusset of sorts. see yellow lines.

[flmont]

Renegade bolts the motor mount cross member to the side runner's so there's would ship in a long tube configuration I would guess

[jimkelly]

renegade site says the don't sell kit parts separately but i do not know if that is an actual fact?

but my understanding is that it is bolted together.

here is a pic of it i think.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-129-1432868008.jpg

[flmont]

That's it,..Iam not sure I would like to rely on that many bolts,But it may have its advantages,it does not seem that sturdy ??

[flmont]

they are also willing to sell there upgraded axel's for the 901

[Costa05]

Add four detachable casters to it and you can roll it right out from under your car after unbolting it from chassis. My home made contraption worked great on my seized engine I just pulled. I roll it right back under car for storage when i want it out of way.