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> jim kelly's 1975 914 suby build, water pump housing and header interference ???
jimkelly
post Oct 3 2015, 06:12 AM
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sawtooths axles

>> has anyone used this dimension with a coldwater cradle ??


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jimkelly
post Oct 3 2015, 06:15 AM
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why I MUST HAVE a Subaru engine and trans (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALwR2Fj91Co


and


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yor2_4Acqlo
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76-914
post Oct 3 2015, 08:20 AM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Oct 3 2015, 05:12 AM) *

sawtooths axles

>> has anyone used this dimension with a coldwater cradle ??

Your getting way ahead of yourself. You'll need to measure those once your drive train is in. These cars vary dimensionally. Don't be surprised if there is a 2-10mm difference between sides. You will want these cut as long as possible. They should just barely squeeze in to place with very little room to spare. BTW, when do you plan to start working on the conversion?
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jimkelly
post Oct 3 2015, 10:24 AM
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your conversion was epic - others can see it here.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...hl=subaru++tool

mine will be primarily a bolt in affair. mine will only be of some interest to those that have my very limited skill set. sorry (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

thanks though regarding your comments related to axles. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

I am trying to find anyone who is using a coldwater cradle and a 914 cv at wheel and suby cv at trans. cause we should all be in same boat.

jim

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 3 2015, 07:20 AM) *

QUOTE(jimkelly @ Oct 3 2015, 05:12 AM) *

sawtooths axles

>> has anyone used this dimension with a coldwater cradle ??

Your getting way ahead of yourself. You'll need to measure those once your drive train is in. These cars vary dimensionally. Don't be surprised if there is a 2-10mm difference between sides. You will want these cut as long as possible. They should just barely squeeze in to place with very little room to spare. BTW, when do you plan to start working on the conversion?
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Chris H.
post Oct 3 2015, 01:34 PM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Oct 3 2015, 07:15 AM) *

why I MUST HAVE a Subaru engine and trans (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)



That red one looks familiar...but then again there are a lot of red ones... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6JxpYwqUMs


Ross is using the setup you describe Jim (rnellums), or something similar. He is 5 lug I think.
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jimkelly
post Oct 7 2015, 12:56 PM
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OD of splined end of stock 914 axle is 1.066.

what i am confused about in sawtooth's machining drawing is that the end with all the measurements looks like the 914 end that should have remained untouched i thought. is the CV ID of a suby larger or smaller than the CV ID of a 914 stock cv. i assume smaller otherwise how else could a stock 914 axles be machined to accept a suby cv ????


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mepstein
post Oct 7 2015, 03:59 PM
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Jim - if you or someone will tell me how to remove the Suby axles from cv's, you can have my axles for free.
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jimkelly
post Oct 7 2015, 04:03 PM
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once upon a time, i had a legacy parts car and removed an axle for poscharu, not sure they are all the same but there may be a pin thru the cv and thru the stub axle on the trans side. on the wheel side i think there is a big nut holding it to that side, not sure.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xuCzM2GEcU


be sure the drain all fluid from trans before disconnecting it from engine, when you get to that point.
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mgp4591
post Oct 7 2015, 04:53 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Oct 7 2015, 03:59 PM) *

Jim - if you or someone will tell me how to remove the Suby axles from cv's, you can have my axles for free.

The inners come free when you cut the inner boot completely off, locate the large inner snap ring that's just inside the lip. Then the inner tripod should pull right out of the cup end. So far as the outer joint goes, once again pull the outer boot completely off and taking a REALLY large mallett (so no metal breaks off and injures someone), smack the hell out of the cv joint, away from the shaft. After a whack or two, it should come right off. Done it hundreds of times, it's not too hard.
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jimkelly
post Oct 7 2015, 05:10 PM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ms_UZ43u4CQ
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mepstein
post Oct 7 2015, 06:08 PM
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Thanks guys.


I'll probably cheat and have one of my mechs do it. They're young. I can own them with a cheeseburger.
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jimkelly
post Oct 9 2015, 11:34 AM
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decided to drive the pickup truck to mark's shop and get me a sweet engine cradle and trans hangars (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) thanks mark


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jimkelly
post Oct 10 2015, 04:10 PM
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finally got my 1975 back onto some wheels and tires, so I can roll it around. passenger side brakes were locked up, finally pushed it real hard a few times and now it rolls again. went to remount my fuse panel and noticed it had a cracked ear, so I need to replace it. reinstalled the rusty peddle cluster too. might bleed the brakes tomorrow. basically it is a roller that needs doors and a drivetrain.

giving the interior its first coat of rustoleum, from a can I had laying around. popped in both rear lenses, not in the best of shape. reinstalling headlights, they will be permanently up. off to ace to get some allen screws, somehow I lost 4 of them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) got the screws and got both headlights in, now to figure out how to fix them up solidly.

this car has some rust, need to weld in 3 patch panels, and longs ain't so pretty either.


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jimkelly
post Oct 12 2015, 11:07 AM
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how could i best protect these pin holed longs without welding new metal in ??

i'm thinking phospho, then rise, a primer, then a skin of bondo, then rustoleum.

or maybe just rustoleum primer, skim of bondo, then a coat of rustoleum paint.


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jimkelly
post Oct 12 2015, 03:38 PM
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my buddy - rat rod charlie - is on his way to daytona for bike week with his harley and his trailer. while he is down there, he is going to visit series9 for me and pick up a pair of late model ARIZONA doors from ablesnead whose car is at joe's shop (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


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76-914
post Oct 12 2015, 08:20 PM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Oct 7 2015, 11:56 AM) *

OD of splined end of stock 914 axle is 1.066.

what i am confused about in sawtooth's machining drawing is that the end with all the measurements looks like the 914 end that should have remained untouched i thought. is the CV ID of a suby larger or smaller than the CV ID of a 914 stock cv. i assume smaller otherwise how else could a stock 914 axles be machined to accept a suby cv ????

Read right past this the first time but yes, you are correct. Plenty of meat.
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jimkelly
post Oct 15 2015, 02:51 PM
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got me some doors coming via series9's shop.


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Andyrew
post Oct 15 2015, 04:15 PM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Oct 12 2015, 10:07 AM) *

how could i best protect these pin holed longs without welding new metal in ??

i'm thinking phospho, then rise, a primer, then a skin of bondo, then rustoleum.

or maybe just rustoleum primer, skim of bondo, then a coat of rustoleum paint.



What happens when you stab it with a screwdriver? If it goes through I would replace it...Mine looked like that and I patched it.. You have a fairly easy job there. Sure it'll set you back maybe 2 weeks but its the right thing to do... If you dont have a welder you can rent them fairly cheap.
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jimkelly
post Oct 16 2015, 12:00 PM
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my head light question thread at this link... pics below.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=267076


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jimkelly
post Oct 18 2015, 05:54 AM
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decided that I will just put a delrin spacer here to keep headlights in UP position, permanently.

the idea is less demand on electrical system and less weight. and I always drive with headlights on anyway.

rcvd my ebay fuses and a knob for my V8 car.


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