jim kelly's 1975 914 suby build, water pump housing and header interference ??? Options

[okieflyr]

Jim I see that you are building like a mad man these days. I own Subaru's but I don't have the knowledge depth that this brain trust has been sharing.
I will agree that the fewer moving parts on the cable shifter linkage the better, and unless it is proven, some throw adjustability will be nice to have for fine tuning.
Do you still have Rod on your tech team? The shop looks he might be (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[jimkelly]

rod's on my team BUT he is stubbornly opposed to water cooling a 914 and motorcycles. we are in competition as to who can get on the road first, my subaruized 914 or his vintage triumph.

needless to say i am running behind : )


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rYX2JipppY

[jimkelly]

you are absolutely correct. i have always used a furniture dolly in the past but this will change : )

Add four detachable casters to it and you can roll it right out from under your car after unbolting it from chassis. My home made contraption worked great on my seized engine I just pulled. I roll it right back under car for storage when i want it out of way.

[jimkelly]

i missed this, what a dope : )

[76-914]

i missed this, what a dope : )

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) That kinda shit usually happens at the end of a long day. Keep after it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[914forme]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJBaruDcQq0

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

[jimkelly]

my cut suby axles waiting for a test fit. i expect to test fit axles in late july.

i'll need to start scrounging up free and dirt cheap stock 914 axles.

[jimkelly]

i will start off with a 914 cv at the wheel, cheapest alternative, but who knows what in the future.

my latest thought is to machine a flange like pms sells for 901 to 930 cvs but machine them for 901 to 100mm cvs.

thinking back, the magic flanges were pretty sweet but a little pricey at $400 a pair.

a new idea got in my head. to weld one axle stub to another and have the inner resplined for suby cv. along with having a 914 axles resplined on both sides for suby cvs. so i can use 4 suby cvs versus a combo of cvs.

lastly, weddle sells a type 1 to type 2&4 drive flange $40 ea. see pic below. weld one to a second and flipped stub axle, and weld one to the subaru cv housing. the question is can a bus axle assy be used 18-3/4" without modification of axle. cost of this is flange $40 x 4, bus axle assys $100 x 2, 2 axle stubs $100 = $460 in parts (plus cutting and welding).

[jimkelly]

based on jpnavak's thread, i will weld up a suby to 914 axle to make a frankenaxle.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...elded&st=20

his advice "I would make sure that you sleeve the OD and that the sleeve is long enough to be outside the root joint HAZ. I think it took 7 passes to fill the axle. You also need to straighten them after each pass. I rolled them on the floor and would tap them if they did not roll concentric."

today i disassembled my suby axle halfs for the job. and lost one suby c clip in the grass. why do i still do disassembly on the GRASS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[mepstein]

based on jpnavak's thread, i will weld up a suby to 914 axle to make a frankenaxle.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...elded&st=20

his advice "I would make sure that you sleeve the OD and that the sleeve is long enough to be outside the root joint HAZ. I think it took 7 passes to fill the axle. You also need to straighten them after each pass. I rolled them on the floor and would tap them if they did not roll concentric."

today i disassembled my suby axle halfs for the job. and lost one suby c clip in the grass. why do i still do disassembly on the GRASS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Magnet

[jimkelly]

got first and second cradle made. i will use the trans brackets I MADE from 1.5" square stock, on mine (left), and used part of the oem subaru bracket on my second cradle (right) which is sold.

looking forward to getting started on third (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[jimkelly]

this is how i did mine, trans area.

but i am going to do my best to source used subaru oem bracket for any i build, as they are much nicer looking and much easier to weld in place. and it seems subaru used the same bracket for like, 20 years, which should make finding them used on ebay reasonable.

[jpnovak]

Keep building those cradles and then fill in with a cable shift. This will probably prompt me to build another Suby 914...

I have been looking for another donor roller for a while.

If I was not about to go to paint on my 72 911 coupe project I would have already started on one.

[JRust]

got first and second cradle made. i will use the trans brackets I MADE from 1.5" square stock, on mine (left), and used part of the oem subaru bracket on my second cradle (right) which is sold.

looking forward to getting started on third (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

Hey Jim I am missing something on the cradle. How are you attaching to the transmission car mount? The back end 2 bars don't look tall enough to reach them. Maybe it just visually screwing with my head as the tranny isn't seated all the way in your pic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[jimkelly]

when i first test fitted my first cradle in my car with a 9" spacer tacked on, see post 192 first pic, i was about an inch short. i since then added an inch to mine, so at worst i may need a thick washer or two. but thanks for your input (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

but i did use the subaru oem mount on my second which probably lost me about 1/4" extra.

and here is another reason i am certain i am real close. this is a pic of coldwaters trans hanger next to mine.

[Costa05]

when i first test fitted my first cradle in my car with a 9" spacer tacked on, see post 192 first pic, i was about an inch short. i since then added an inch to mine, so at worst i may need a thick washer or two. but thanks for your input (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

but i did use the subaru oem mount on my second which probably lost me about 1/4" extra.

Jim,
As a fellow subie swapper in progress, I have enjoyed following your post. Thanks for sharing. Great forum.

[jimkelly]

based on my other thread, it seems that 911 cupped washers are best to use with 911 sport mounts.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...=0#entry2506419

and i am leaning heavily on using a oem wrx header, instead of an aftermarket header as price is the same but oem unit is more compact it seems.

[jimkelly]

my axle related thread

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=313396

[914forme]

If your going to all this problem why not just machine up and outer stub that access the subaru CV and bolts into the 914 -4 flange, or 911 flange. I would go with the 911 flange, late model with the hub centric pieces on the flange. Strong, OEMs work and you could make it a bolt on affair. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Just me and the odd ideas I have running through my head at times.

You would still need to get the axle lengths set and resplinded.

I would go 944 outer - Dutchman axels and Subbie inner on transide, easily done and repeatable.

You could also use the bolt on adapters for the 930 CV to stock 914 CV flange.

So stock 914 stub on training arm, CV Adapter, 930 CV, Dutchman axle resplinded Subbie CV on trans side.

All that being said I am (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) and went all 930, so I could find something besides CVs to keep off the road. Which is truly all bolt on.

If history teaches us nothing what will keep me off the road is myself, as when I get the car done, I will tear it apart in short order to fabricate something else. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Now if I can get it recognized as a disorder, I would have the ability to do it when ever I wanted, and just say ..|. .|.. I got it bad, leave me be.

quote the Chili Peppers "I got a bad disease"

[jimkelly]

i'll most likely start with 914 cv and suby cv and a replined 914 axle.

but then i was thinking 924/944 cv for strength.

i like the idea of brand new axles and cvs that dont need any modification. though this would require flanges adapted to the wheel side and trans side in some sort of way.

seems to be no sub $400 solution. $150 pair axles, $150 4 flanges, etc etc.