jim kelly's 1975 914 suby build, water pump housing and header interference ??? Options

[jimkelly]

just messing with a shifting revision on my TEST MULE cradle.

getting all gears now and no more bell crank.

sorry to take up so much page one space with my abomination (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

just realized i forgot to use my ball joint rod ends : (

so i plan to redo the trans arm because without ball joints, the threads on the cable will get messed up very quickly.

some pics of the oem header i ordered (it's rough $60) and of the clearance i have around my cradle and motor.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPfsolJjJT4

[jimkelly]

revised my trans arm to allow me to use, as i should have originally, bearing ends.

see me shift thru the gears in no particular order (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jThij_uAoXA

[914forme]

i'll most likely start with 914 cv and suby cv and a replined 914 axle.

but then i was thinking 924/944 cv for strength.

i like the idea of brand new axles and cvs that dont need any modification. though this would require flanges adapted to the wheel side and trans side in some sort of way.

seems to be no sub $400 solution. $150 pair axles, $150 4 flanges, etc etc.

The cheapest way out is to cut and sleeve the the axles. Subbie on trans side, 914-4 on outside. That is a sub $100 fix. Only issue is your weakest link in the drive line is in the worst place for service. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[jimkelly]

meaning the 914 cv on the wheel side?

that said, mine will be powered by a 1990 legacy 2.2 with barely 120-130 hp at best.

doubt i'll be breaking anything (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

greatest ever 914 suby conversion video collection
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLG2d...ygddDy7lEoCK8pN

next up is making a bracket for my clutch push pull cable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiT8eFejDBc...pN&index=39

[jimkelly]

holy shit, finally got the engine and auto trans out of my 1990 legacy. could not separate them but know it is because of the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate. cut one axle and did some things with the drive shaft, and engine/trans came out.

my driveway is now a brownfield : ( even after draining oil and trans fluid, i had a good amount still come out during removal of the later.

pics to come.

[jimkelly]

the guy that is taking my legacy away needed me to remove the drive shaft today so his dad can come get the car with a tow dolly. drive shaft out and both axles cut so i have cv housings for modification.

tried to disconnect auto trans from ej22 and found that those bolts between flex plate and torque converter and low profile and a bit of a bitch to remove. got to get me a nice 5 point long 12 mm box wrench (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[mgp4591]

i'll most likely start with 914 cv and suby cv and a replined 914 axle.

but then i was thinking 924/944 cv for strength.

i like the idea of brand new axles and cvs that dont need any modification. though this would require flanges adapted to the wheel side and trans side in some sort of way.

seems to be no sub $400 solution. $150 pair axles, $150 4 flanges, etc etc.

The cheapest way out is to cut and sleeve the the axles. Subbie on trans side, 914-4 on outside. That is a sub $100 fix. Only issue is your weakest link in the drive line is in the worst place for service. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

But if it's done by a competent shop, driveline issues shouldn't be a problem, right? I've seen some sleeved and was wondering how many folks have done that too but pretty much all that I've seen here is the more expensive (and possibly stronger) solutions.

[okieflyr]

Jim if you tie that engine cradle to the front chassis as well, you'll never have a rust sag car again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[jimkelly]

do i hear overkill (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) its mostly 1/8 steel with some 1/4 steel thrown in. mine is not much heavier than coldwater's and his was .90 tube mostly.

[jimkelly]

i'm gonna try some cut and sleeved axles and will report on longevity.

[jd74914]

The cheapest way out is to cut and sleeve the the axles. Subbie on trans side, 914-4 on outside. That is a sub $100 fix. Only issue is your weakest link in the drive line is in the worst place for service. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

But if it's done by a competent shop, driveline issues shouldn't be a problem, right? I've seen some sleeved and was wondering how many folks have done that too but pretty much all that I've seen here is the more expensive (and possibly stronger) solutions.

IMHO sleeved axles are a time bomb for any higher powered cars. Jim may very well be ok with his 120 hp, but my experience is that lots of torque/launches and sleeves don't mix well. In a pinch I've sleeves axles together on formula-style cars and had them last for just a bit. Those cars used hardened 4340 axles and the sleeves were made from 4340. They we turned to press onto each side of the axle (strong interference fit) and the TIG welded with appropriate filler, and torch annealed to prevent brittle fracture. Unfortunately, due to time constraints we didn't get to re-heat treat. I think set #1 lasted about 4 hrs of hard driving. Set #2 was made with a wave pattern weld to maximize weld shear area and lasted maybe 6 hrs. That was under pretty hard use, but just something to think about. The good thing is that when they break the sleeve keeps everything together so you don't have to worry about flying axle halves. Sorry to sound negative but BTDT a few times.

[914pipe]

This is what I did. Send the axles to the machine shop to cut them to 18 inches total lenght (should have them cut to 17.5 inches for easier installation). Have one end re-splided to subaru transmission end. Total cost was $180.00 dollars.







(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[jimkelly]

that looks good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

my suby trans has the female cvs and my understanding is the axle length is different depending on if the suby female or male cv is used.

i will be able to measure for what i need only after my engine and trans are mounted in my car.

subaru is gone.

[jimkelly]

i just whipped up a bracket for my clutch cable.

[A&P Mech]

Jim,

Why not do a hydraulic clutch? It is super easy and works great.

[mgp4591]

"my suby trans has the female cvs and my understanding is the axle length is different depending on if the suby female or male cv is used."

How can you use the male end of the cv? The plunge joint (tulip) is the side that fits in the trans - the male end only fits the hub side... I think. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[jimkelly]

pics

my cv is not the tulip type, mine has a cage and balls inside like 914 cv.

as for hydraulic, maybe i'll upgrade down the road. simply trying to use what i GOT (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

last pic is amenson's, like mine.

[jimkelly]

cradle done.

one issue i found is with wrx header oem style. it seems to interfere with water pump housing. though i tested with no gasket, but it seems a thickish gasket may solve the problem though i think maybe there is a different housing i should be using vs stock 2.2 housing? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

when i removed the housing the header went together fine.

relieved to see that oil filter is far from header (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

looks like my answer is here (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/...-on-a-na-motor/

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/t71668-turbo-water-pump.html

http://turbotimer.org/so-you-want-to-turbo-an-ej22e/

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/i...100--index.html

[mgp4591]

That is a plunge joint, just not a tripod type. As opposed to the 914 stock axle or a 911 type. It makes it lots easier to remove the axle when the inside joint can travel into the housing.

[Andyrew]

Are you using the stock water pump? Any hose that close to the header will melt or crack within a short timeframe.

Sounds like a turbo water pump is certainly the answer there. Another option is a remote water pump, but the flanges will probably be difficult to fit.