Driveway Paintjob Thread, I will update up to the WCC Options

[Mrs. K]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif) Looks like you have been one busy boy there Scott! Looks like you are making nice progress! Good job!

Lisa (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/clap.gif)

[skline]

Yes Cole, we worry about it here too. The gutters drain to the ocean and the last thing I would want is to be swimming in paint chips. The mess is swept up and put into the hazardous waste trash can the city provides for us.
As for the grey and red and pink and even the light green stuff at the bottom rear is all body filler of some type or another. It will all have to come out.

[mightyohm]

QUOTE (skline @ Mar 8 2005, 06:59 PM)

Yes Cole, we worry about it here too. The gutters drain to the ocean and the last thing I would want is to be swimming in paint chips. The mess is swept up and put into the hazardous waste trash can the city provides for us.

You know you live in LA when the city gives you a hazardous waste trash can!!!

Up here if they know you are out in the yard spraying a can of B12 they will send in the black helicopters!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/flag.gif)

[xsboost90]

ahh yes, good old stripper. The grey is primer applied before the white was put on. the pink, green and blue would be stuff that we would call "bondo" or filler. IM alittle further than that, doing body work now. Mine had been stripped once before, and its been sprayed with self etching primer-green- and then some filler primer-grey.

i would say that maybe your quarter was resprayed green at some point before someone painted it white. I doubt the factory would have used that much bondo.

[CptTripps]

This is an awesome thread. I'm starting the stripping process this weekend, so this'll come in REAL handy. Yesterday I almost asked the same question about a 'how-to' thread, but I'm REAL glad you beat me to the punch!

I was going to sand the whole thing down with 80-grit, but this looks a lot 'safer' than that.

How long do I need to let the stripper sit on the paint? I was thinking of waking up at like 5:30 to apply the first coat...get a shower and go back to bed for a few hours...then get up and start scraping. I've got 2 coats of paint to get through and I'm SURE a fair bit of filler.

Banging out the rear-pass fender is going to be a treat. The f$%king thing shrunk up more than I'd planned when I was re-welding it back into place.

[skline]

Actually, the stripper only needs to set for about 10 to 15 minutes depending on how strong it is. You can actually hear the paint seperating from the car one coat at a time. It will most likely take 2 or 3 applications to get the bulk of it off. If you leave it on too long, it will dry and wont scrape off as easy. Only do one section at a time as it will dry before you get to the other side. The most I have done at one time is a door and a fender or a hood and fender and that was pushing it. Once you start with the chemicals, you need to go all the way to metal. There will still be some sanding when you get done with the stripper.

[Joe Bob]

Have you tried putting thick saran wrap on top to keep the stripper from cooking/drying off?

[skline]

That does work but I didnt want to make a bigger mess than it already makes. Thats just one more thing I would have to throw away. But yes Mike, that does work pretty good.

[watsonrx13]

Scott, do you have a pic of the scraper(s) you're using?

[skline]

I have a couple, they are just common putty knives. I have a wide one about 2" and a narrow one about 1/2" for places like gutters around trunks and small areas. When I say common, not the real flimsy one, these are pretty stout. Keep them sharp and they cut pretty fast.

[xsboost90]

make sure you shake the stripper up real good too. I used marhyde tal strip 2 and it had separated abit and didnt work too well until i shook the crap out of it and then it was much better. Heat makes it work quicker, but i killed my heater being too close to the fumes, glogged it up real good, so careful. Definitly scrape off as much as possible before it dries.

[Korijo]

metal mad-man John Kelly recommends Jasco stripper. available at home depot.

wurks as gud as the aircraft stuff, but costs less...

[CptTripps]

QUOTE (Korijo @ Mar 9 2005, 03:20 PM)

metal mad-man John Kelly recommends Jasco stripper. available at home depot. wurks as gud as the aircraft stuff, but costs less...

That stuff is NASTY! Especally if you cover it with tin-foil. I took 20yrs of gunk off of a floor with it in about 2hrs once. I think I still have a fair bit. I keep opening the can up to let the air out. It bloats over time. I'll look over and it's like it's holding it's breath or something...

[andys]

I have done a few driveway and parking lot paint jobs with reasonably good results. Though not for bragging rights, you'd be surprised at how well they came out. As was posted before, early morning (few bugs and no wind), hose down the area and keep it wet. The parking lot jobs were done at a couple of different freinds' shops. Same deal, early morning, and hose the area down. Even did a 19ft ski boat this way. If the local constable happens by, then I suspect you're in trouble. Though an early morning in an industrial area would be unlikely.

BTW, that Jasco stripper is quite good and readily available. I'll have to read the label; I suspect it contains methylene chloride....great for attacking paint and bondo (or most polymers). And yes, I too like the cup wire brush for removing the bondo.

Andy

[rhodyguy]

pretty darn ambitious scott. do you plan on build primer and sanding to help with the waveys? if i were to ever attempt this i think i would get one of john kelly's shrinking discs to cut down on the primer and sanding.

k

[skline]

Well, I had a few visitors today and got quite a bit done or should I say farther along. Its turned out to be more work than I first thought. Turns out there was a lot of bondo in this car in places I didnt even think of. The worst was in the passenger rear fender. Just behind the wheelwell. Looks like a large ballpeen hammer hit and several small ones on top of that. Depth was about 3/4 on an inch. The worst part is the lip damage. I dont know if I can get that one out so I may be welding in a new replacement section. It wont be the first time I have had to do that. Here is the way to properly pull dents back out if you can get your hands on one. I love this thing, it works so cool.

[skline]

Another shot in a different spot.

[skline]

There were dents where the studs are welded on, they are pulled out almost perfect. I will go back and grind off the studs and finish it with spot putty. All the red circles are where dents are. Some are worse than others. The next few days will be working on removing all the dents and welding in metal where the side marker lights were and the holes where the sail trim was. The green paint is not coming off very easy. Some places it is like the metal has turned green. For the most part, the car is stripped. I will take it the rest of the way with sanders.

[skline]

The worst dents to remove in the car.

[skline]

The part I just happened to have on the side of my house. Amazing the crap I collected over the years.