Just another Factory 6 being fixed up Options

[sixnotfour]

I've been looking for some AN-12 ORB to metric 30mm adapters but having a hard time finding one.
These would replace the AN fittings on the T-stat. I'd like to keep everything plumbed in metric. Anyone have a source that I maybe missing ?

I went through the same thing with a Peterson oil tank and I ran Porsche lines that flow better than AN-12... here is some pics..
Basically buy -12 male with 30x1.5 and cut the taper off ,,and I borred mine to .750... while I was wtf.. I made the welded one, to move forward..
I found the
-12an male - 30mm x1.5 Colse Out $4 a piece..and modified em.. the taper isn't per Porsche ..does seem to seal and be tight.. or you could shorten em and cut correct taper....Im tired..

[Luke M]

I've been looking for some AN-12 ORB to metric 30mm adapters but having a hard time finding one.
These would replace the AN fittings on the T-stat. I'd like to keep everything plumbed in metric. Anyone have a source that I maybe missing ?

I went through the same thing with a Peterson oil tank and I ran Porsche lines that flow better than AN-12... here is some pics..
Basically buy -12 male with 30x1.5 and cut the taper off ,,and I borred mine to .750... while I was wtf.. I made the welded one, to move forward..
I found the
-12an male - 30mm x1.5 Colse Out $4 a piece..and modified em.. the taper isn't per Porsche ..does seem to seal and be tight.. or you could shorten em and cut correct taper....Im tired..

Thanks for the info. I found a guy over on Pelican that can make me some new fittings.
He has it on his job list to do for me.

[sixnotfour]

I've been looking for some AN-12 ORB to metric 30mm adapters but having a hard time finding one.
These would replace the AN fittings on the T-stat. I'd like to keep everything plumbed in metric. Anyone have a source that I maybe missing ?

I went through the same thing with a Peterson oil tank and I ran Porsche lines that flow better than AN-12... here is some pics..
Basically buy -12 male with 30x1.5 and cut the taper off ,,and I borred mine to .750... while I was wtf.. I made the welded one, to move forward..
I found the
-12an male - 30mm x1.5 Colse Out $4 a piece..and modified em.. the taper isn't per Porsche ..does seem to seal and be tight.. or you could shorten em and cut correct taper....Im tired..

Thanks for the info. I found a guy over on Pelican that can make me some new fittings.
He has it on his job list to do for me.

ya
I couldn't waite.. but when he comes through lmk ..

[Luke M]

Removed the front fender, and door post. Figured this was gonna be the easiest way out of this whole mess vs making and fitting patches. I'll need to fab up a lower patch for the inner fender and get it welded in. First a whole lot of drilling and grinding spot welds. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[mepstein]

After metalwork is done, Blast or chemical dip & e-coat or something else? Just curious.

[Luke M]

After metalwork is done, Blast or chemical dip & e-coat or something else? Just curious.

Hi Mark,

I'm planning on having the chassis blasted then epoxy painted.
I'm thinking that I'll have that done prior to installing any of the fenders/Q-panels.
From there I'll fix anything that may come up from blasting, seam seal, then may have the lower section of the chassis sprayed with undercoating or bed liner of sorts. My brother used bed liner on his chassis and it seamed to come out pretty good. After all that whatever the paint guy does which I think is some type of primer/sealer, paint, then clear. I'd have to reach out to him and ask but he's a snowbird and in the south til April/May. He sold his collision shop here and does a few paint jobs a year on the side now. I just need to be all done with my end of the work before I can get on his schedule. When I saw him last fall he already had two cars booked and usually does between four to six and then he's done for the year. I need to get to it and knock this work out as fast as I can. I'd like to be ready for paint by late summer or early fall if all possible. I don't see that being too difficult to accomplish as long as I don't hit any major snags along the way. I have some family stuff going on today but plan on doing a few more things later this afternoon.

[rick 918-S]

I am not sure what you have planned but I would suggest building the car from the fixed panels forward. In other words, back of the car to the front. Once the quarter panels are fitted whether attached with Clecos, drill screws or welded, you will have an easier time aligning the hinge post to ensure a height and alignment to the quarter panel for the gap. Just my 5 cents. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/assimilate.gif)

[Luke M]

I am not sure what you have planned but I would suggest building the car from the fixed panels forward. In other words, back of the car to the front. Once the quarter panels are fitted whether attached with Clecos, drill screws or welded, you will have an easier time aligning the hinge post to ensure a height and alignment to the quarter panel for the gap. Just my 5 cents. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/assimilate.gif)

Hi Rick,

I struggled doing that part when I installed the pass side long and post. I have a plan in mind going forward. All panels will go on temperately then get removed again. Just like you said to make sure all the gaps are good. Oh and thanks for the pic of the triangle. I thought that's what you meant. So, I'm running Ben's SS oil lines down the drivers side and I'll need to trim the triangles off anyways. I may just not butcher this NOS part and get a RD part for this side. I'll test fit things then decide. RD isn't too far from me so usually have the parts in hand within four days. What I messed up on was not adding the RD frame stiffener on the pass side when I originally did that side. I plan on adding that to the drivers side once I have everything set in place. I thought about adding the Mad Dog inner stiffener kit but I like the RD version better.