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> Just another Factory 6 being fixed up
sixnotfour
post Mar 25 2026, 08:08 PM
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Wow Luke you are committed ... I have my no rust six I wrecked 30 yrs ago on a rack ,,almost straight..
But in trying to keep up.. I found my Troutman thermostat...
its the small things sometimes,,
Great Effort...and Nice parts.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
Is that the left rear fender I sold ??


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Luke M
post Mar 26 2026, 07:18 AM
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QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Mar 25 2026, 07:08 PM) *

Wow Luke you are committed ... I have my no rust six I wrecked 30 yrs ago on a rack ,,almost straight..
But in trying to keep up.. I found my Troutman thermostat...
its the small things sometimes,,
Great Effort...and Nice parts.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
Is that the left rear fender I sold ??



Yes, that's the nos l/r q-panel that I got from you. All of the new panels will get stripped and epoxy painted before installing them. I'm heading out to the shop to fix the sand blaster. Hopefully this update will fix the issue and I can get to blasting the chassis.
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Luke M
post Apr 1 2026, 06:17 AM
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I tried to blast the chassis on my own but it didn't work out too well. I made more of a mess and had all kinds of issues with the blaster. I think I also smoked my air compressor motor too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I just didn't give it enough time to cool between rounds of filling.

I'm pretty sure I got most of the media out of the hidden areas. I used air and a vacuum for a good two hours. The nice part is there's only one long to deal with and I had sealed that up pretty well before I started.

I should've just paid to have this part done but I wanted to give it a try. I had good luck blasting the new panels but blasting a painted/undercoated chassis was way more work involved. It went fine in the areas where I had ground down but once I hit the old paint and under coating it just stalled. I went through several bags of media to get very little results. So now I'm going to make a few calls to either have a company come out to blast it or take it to the guy I spoke to over the winter. He's on a first come first serve so I'll have to see where I fall in that line.

If all fails I may rent a compressor and blasting pot from a local rental shop and try again. Lesson learned here is don't waste your money on a HF blasting pot and trying to modify it to work better. It was a costly failure on my part. I have a 60 gl air compressor but pretty sure I needed more cfm then what it puts out.



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Speedo
post Apr 3 2026, 01:38 PM
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Just got caught up on the thread Luke. Nice work. Full speed ahead!
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Luke M
post Apr 29 2026, 06:39 AM
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I've been chipping away at small tasks here. For those who run a front oil cooler and removed the tow ring for venting what was your fix to this? I came up with a bolt on tow ring almost like what Arno did on his GT project. I figured I'd ask before I commit to welding this in.


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Cairo94507
post Apr 29 2026, 07:30 AM
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@Luke - Hi Luke - We just removed the tow hook all together when we did the louvered trunk floor panel. I added Tangerine Racing's tow "loops" to the front control arms which I feel is a much better solution.

In reality, my car would not be towed like that. But, if we need to trailer it, they make a great tie down along with his rear tie downs.

Cheers,
Michael

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Luke M
post May 1 2026, 03:45 PM
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Working on the replacement drivers door ( Thanks Perry ).
The door had a small dent at the lower end. I broke out the spot welder and my body hammers. About 30 mins later and all is well. I may work the corner a little more but want to install the door first.


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Luke M
post May 11 2026, 06:51 AM
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I've been playing phone tag with the blasting guy and the darn weather here isn't co-operating. When the blasting guy is free it calls for rain. I've been doing some other tasks while I wait. I got the new long prepped for the front oil lines and mocking up the rest of the oil cooler setup in the engine bay. I plan to run a return filter before the oil goes to the t-stat then through the rest of the oil system. I think I figured out a good location for the filter/housing. I installed a spare engine case to make sure things clear and things can be accessed. I'll have to modify a few oil lines to make things work. I'm using a 95 993 return oil line which I'll modify to mate with the return filter housing then make up some lines to mate with the oil t-stat. I've decided to use the new Elephant Racing ERX T-stat and all new metric fittings. This should all work pretty well with the 3.4.


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Luke M
post May 11 2026, 12:58 PM
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Got a few things done today. Made the hard line from the tank to the engine oil cooler.
Test fitted things and all seams like it will fit well. I figured out the mounting spot for the oil filter housing and the t-stat. I have to make some lines up between the two but first I need to hard mount the housings. I should be able to wrap most of this up by the weekend.


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roundtwo
post May 12 2026, 01:41 PM
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QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Apr 29 2026, 06:30 AM) *

@Luke - Hi Luke - We just removed the tow hook all together when we did the louvered trunk floor panel. I added Tangerine Racing's tow "loops" to the front control arms which I feel is a much better solution.

In reality, my car would not be towed like that. But, if we need to trailer it, they make a great tie down along with his rear tie downs.

Cheers,
Michael


@Cairo94507

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Hey Cairo,
You have enough airflow with the louvered frunk pan?
I'm wondering about the adequacy now that I have mine in and working...I don't have oil radiator fans as the radiator is only about 4" tall...hard to size fans for my set up.
Thanks, Todd
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Luke M
post May 12 2026, 05:05 PM
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I'm almost done with the fitting at the T-stat. I have one more to make that goes from the oil filter housing to the t-stat. This one is going to be a real pain in the rear to make. I have to make the rubber hose from the engine return line to the oil filter housing. I modified a factory 95 993 return oil line to fit the 6 chassis. It worked out well as the other end was used from the oil tank return to the t-stat return side.


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sixaddict
post May 12 2026, 05:14 PM
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Wow…….Better than new!
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Cairo94507
post May 13 2026, 07:15 AM
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Very nicely done! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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Root_Werks
post May 13 2026, 09:01 AM
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So cool to test fit everything before paint goes on. Looking great!
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Luke M
post May 13 2026, 10:07 AM
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QUOTE(Root_Werks @ May 13 2026, 08:01 AM) *

So cool to test fit everything before paint goes on. Looking great!



Thanks guys. I wanted to test fit most of the new items that will be going into the chassis. This way I can add brackets and drill holes without damaging fresh paint. I'm finding that this was the way to go. I'm taking a lot of pictures as I go too. That way once the final assembly takes place I will not be wondering what goes where.

I have a question for the people that have used the wurth or bed liner for under the chassis. Does it seam to help with road noise and stone chips? I do not plan on adding any interior sound deadening material on the floor pan or firewall. If anything I was going to use something on the underside of the fenders to prevent stone chips/dents. I have a fairly long stone driveway that I'll be driving on. The last thing I want is a new dent within the first drive.
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rgalla9146
post May 13 2026, 10:13 AM
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Beautiful.
Cleanest ever. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)
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mate914
post May 13 2026, 02:22 PM
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Luke,
I used Upol, they supply Wurth and are in the states. Its gives the car a clean under body look. I have had three different cars with different insulating styles. The Wurth/Upol product on the under body and trunks are worlds better. The 914-6 I used it on is the quietists and smoothest sailing car I have driven. 100% recommend.
Matt

QUOTE(Luke M @ May 13 2026, 12:07 PM) *

QUOTE(Root_Werks @ May 13 2026, 08:01 AM) *

So cool to test fit everything before paint goes on. Looking great!



Thanks guys. I wanted to test fit most of the new items that will be going into the chassis. This way I can add brackets and drill holes without damaging fresh paint. I'm finding that this was the way to go. I'm taking a lot of pictures as I go too. That way once the final assembly takes place I will not be wondering what goes where.

I have a question for the people that have used the wurth or bed liner for under the chassis. Does it seam to help with road noise and stone chips? I do not plan on adding any interior sound deadening material on the floor pan or firewall. If anything I was going to use something on the underside of the fenders to prevent stone chips/dents. I have a fairly long stone driveway that I'll be driving on. The last thing I want is a new dent within the first drive.

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sixnotfour
post May 13 2026, 05:33 PM
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Wow great job ..that thermostat..100% ...finally Improved.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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