Trunk spring removal Options

[Rob-O]

I'm finally doing the install of the Camp trunk shock kit. I've got it all complete except for removing the tension on the factory springs and hooking up the Camp shocks. I know the trick for moving the spring enough to get a new roller in the hinge using a modified adjustable wrench (recent thread around here actually).. But once I move the spring, I'm having a hard time moving it off of the roller with the 10mm socket method. And if I am able to move it, it doesn't look like I'll have enough room to release the tension by bringing it down against the body/sheet metal area under the hinge.

Camp's instructions just say there is a nice write up on how to do it in the Haynes manual. But I haven't had (thanks to 914World) a Haynes Manual in decades. I think the last time I removed one of the factory torsion springs it was by just removing the nuts holding the springs down. That was in the 80's and I still remember that it was a dangerous endeavor.

Any ideas???

[GeorgeRud]

I seem to remember you open the trunk and remove the trunk rollers to take the tension off the torsion rods, but I think it still was a chore.

However, you'll love the trunk shocks when it's done.

[Mike D.]

Use a cut off wheel and cut them in the center. Removes the tension! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

[Rob-O]

Brilliant Mike! Getting cut tonight!

[EdwardBlume]

Yikes! Lots of tension. Be careful!

[r_towle]

It's a whole lot simpler and easier to take a 10mm deep socket and put it on a 6 inch extension.
Slip that over the end of the spring at the roller, push it down and take it off the roller and gently let it go toward the back.

When done, release the two 10mm claps and you are done.

[pilothyer]

Use a cut off wheel and cut them in the center. Removes the tension! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

Why does this remind me of close range taunting of a coiled rattlesnake? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Kansas 914]

It's a whole lot simpler and easier to take a 10mm deep socket and put it on a 6 inch extension.
Slip that over the end of the spring at the roller, push it down and take it off the roller and gently let it go toward the back.

When done, release the two 10mm claps and you are done.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[dangrouche]

i used that 10mm deep socket technique. For SAFTEY's sake, wear thick welder type gloves and safety glasses.

[Rob-O]

Worked perfectly! Still a little scary when that spring lets go though!

[Dave_Darling]

Use a cut off wheel and cut them in the center. Removes the tension! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

Why does this remind me of close range taunting of a coiled rattlesnake? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Because you have too much imagination?

It makes a noise when it lets go, but the torsion rod doesn't go anywhere. There's even a metal loop that the rods go through to keep them from flying off! If you're going with the pressure struts, cut the torsion rods and be done with it.

--DD

[Rob-O]

I cut the rods. As DD said, there is a loop, so they can't go anywhere. I did wear safety glasses and heavy gloves, just in case. The "POW" when the rods finally snap in two is a little loud. I did have a some fitment issues though. The end of the rod that attaches to the hinge was touching the side of the seal and preventing from closing. I had to trim that a little more than I'd like. Now that seal just runs straight across the back edge of the trunk. I had to cut off the pieces that curved around the shock towers.

[Rob-O]

Finished product. By the way, those are the new 914Rubber latch cups and trunk mat, great products and inexpensive for some trunk bling.

[North Coast Jim]

I'm finally doing the install of the Camp trunk shock kit. I've got it all complete except for removing the tension on the factory springs and hooking up the Camp shocks. I know the trick for moving the spring enough to get a new roller in the hinge using a modified adjustable wrench (recent thread around here actually).. But once I move the spring, I'm having a hard time moving it off of the roller with the 10mm socket method. And if I am able to move it, it doesn't look like I'll have enough room to release the tension by bringing it down against the body/sheet metal area under the hinge.

Camp's instructions just say there is a nice write up on how to do it in the Haynes manual. But I haven't had (thanks to 914World) a Haynes Manual in decades. I think the last time I removed one of the factory torsion springs it was by just removing the nuts holding the springs down. That was in the 80's and I still remember that it was a dangerous endeavor.

Any ideas???

I wanted to use the original torsion bar springs and mine were already unloaded. Had to get them back onto the post and install the rollers. I made the tool attached below and it worked easily and SAFELY. Tried the socket with extension and almost took out my forehead. Not safe. I made my tool, the ENABLER, out of Stainless.

[Rob-O]

Nice!