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> Rear suspension console, technical inquiry, rust repair, parts source
mr2by4
post Nov 22 2015, 08:38 AM
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I have a rusty lower suspension console on the passenger side. Is there any hope of finding a donor piece in good shape, or should I just get a replacement/repro piece?
It looks like the repro piece is easier to install since it is hopefully made to original spec and should fit right in.
What is the best source for a reproduction console? Are they all created equally or will I be better off with one vendor over another.
Is there a good video or thread to walk me through it? I found thousands of hits on the list, but have not been able to sift through them to find what I need.
I had hoped I would not be doing rust repair, but ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
time for
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and
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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mr2by4
post Nov 22 2015, 08:44 AM
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I will try to get in and get some pictures of the rust soon. I was in a rush to go get my wife and kids at the end of the party and left much of the stuff just laying were it was dropped. When I clean up I will get some good shots since...
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mepstein
post Nov 22 2015, 08:53 AM
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They all originate from reproduction design. It's one of the first things to go on our cars so your not going to get one off a tub. Too much spot weld drilling anyway. There are quite a few threads showing removal and replacement. Measure 10x then weld a little at a time checking as you go.
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cary
post Nov 22 2015, 09:25 AM
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Here's the place & the part ............
http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP318

Here's the video you were looking for.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v40ZpRL1Osw

Info you need is on Post #3.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...pension+console


I had trouble fitting mine. But it was caused by changing the wheelhouse long too. I had to do it twice. I was an a too far back. Not much. But I'm kind of picky.

But when you put it back on the same long you'll be able to scribe the lines of both sides of the piece you'll be taking off, plus take measurements from every direction.

If this is the only piece you'll be taking off. Buy the spot weld cutter from Harbor Freight. Make sure to dip the cutter in oil about 1/2 thru each weld. Keeps the cutter cool and it with last longer. When you see the cutting change to brown STOP. You've gone thru the first layer.

My .02c while I'm drinking my first cup of coffee.
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mr2by4
post Nov 22 2015, 10:13 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions.
Here is what I am looking at
Looks like the previous "restoration" addressed the hell hole from above and the battery shelf, but with a somewhat crude approach. I do not want to step onto the slippery slope of rust repair, but I would like to get at least 10 years before I have to worry about this again. Not racing or tracking the car. It is just a weekend fun car/old man project. Has mild 1911 with stock FI going back into it with stock wheel widths.
Attached Image Attached ImageAttached ImageAttached Image
Attached Image

and the battery tray as it sits
Attached Image
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mr2by4
post Nov 22 2015, 10:20 AM
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QUOTE(cary @ Nov 22 2015, 07:25 AM) *

I found that video, but it crucially lacks the removal of the rusty piece and how to prep the area.
Also since I am doing it without a frame jig.
Is it normal to tap in sheet metal screws? Why I am not just doing tack welds?
Thanks so much to the world for the support. I guess the fact that we work on our own cars so much and have SO much work to do, it lends a real sense of camaraderie. This community is incredible!
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cary
post Nov 22 2015, 10:45 AM
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Here's my little project .................. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...87546&st=80
Start at post #95 it will show you the places that will need to be drilled out. The idea is to not drill holes in the second layer, but pretty tough to achieve. It's not step by step. But follow along and you'll some ideas.

As for Adam at RD using screws. Its to hold the two layers tight to create a nice tight and flat rosette weld. Lots of different ways to do it. Cleco's, clamps, etc.
I've been using screws a lot, but not always.
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cary
post Nov 22 2015, 10:55 AM
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Why it comes time to install the new part. Stay 1000% focused on the center of the hole. That's is what needs to be dead on. Up, down, in and out.

Don't be so concerned with the sides and the top and bottom being right where they were. Weld both sides before you weld the flange on the top of the long. I thinks that where I lost my measurements.
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cary
post Nov 22 2015, 11:36 AM
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On my replacement I drilled a couple drain holes just about where yours rusted out.

Attached Image

When you take these cars apart backwards you see kinds of things you can improve on.

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mr2by4
post Nov 22 2015, 02:24 PM
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QUOTE(cary @ Nov 22 2015, 09:36 AM) *

On my replacement I drilled a couple drain holes just about where yours rusted out.

When you take these cars apart backwards you see kinds of things you can improve on.

I think that mine will be ok, since now the top is sealed and hopefully will stay that way. I would fear that the drain holes would just act as a point of entry for moisture etc.

My plan looks something like this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-in...tter-95343.html

then

http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP318

I will add this to my little Lincoln Welder

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lcn-k610...CFdgDgQodXr4FwA

and then I am thinking of something like this to finish it off.
WARNING ADULT CONTENT
Attached Image

So I have myself covered, but I need a bit of advice on weld through primers, seam sealer etc.
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914work
post Nov 23 2015, 09:50 AM
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As is normally the case you have more issues lurking.
Check out the inside of the chassis motor bar mount.
It also looks like the bottom of that area has been patched. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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mr2by4
post Nov 23 2015, 11:57 AM
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QUOTE(914werke @ Nov 23 2015, 07:50 AM) *

As is normally the case you have more issues lurking.
Check out the inside of the chassis motor bar mount.
It also looks like the bottom of that area has been patched. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)


It appears that the last restoration did the repair and replace on the top, but thought that a little surface rust on the inside of the suspension console was not an issue. Now many years later, we know what happened.
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mbseto
post Nov 23 2015, 12:59 PM
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QUOTE(mr2by4 @ Nov 22 2015, 11:13 AM) *

I do not want to step onto the slippery slope of rust repair,


Sheer cliff. I sympathize, mine looks similar and I'm just about two steps ahead of you.
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ClayPerrine
post Nov 23 2015, 08:13 PM
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You are going to have to pull the fuel lines I installed before you can replace the console...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Put a REAL battery tray in while you are there.

And I hate to say this... but I am NOT the guy you want when it comes to this type of work. I can fix electrical, engine, transmission, interior and suspension, but I am lousy and paint and body. I farm that out.



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cary
post Nov 23 2015, 10:54 PM
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So I have myself covered, but I need a bit of advice on weld through primers, seam sealer etc.

U-Pol for spray on weld thru primer. SEM, thin and runny. NAPA a bit too thick. IMO.
I use NAPA because its easy. But it makes a BIG ASS mess. I'm going to try shaking it longer.

On my project I've used 2-3 different brands of seam sealer. But I'm learning that I should be using a newer 2 part product. Supposedly the old school stuff will harden over time and crack and let water in, like what we see in the rear trunk area. My paint store sells Fusor brand 2 part. So that's what I'm going to switch to.
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mr2by4
post Nov 24 2015, 07:41 AM
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QUOTE(cary @ Nov 23 2015, 08:54 PM) *

So I have myself covered, but I need a bit of advice on weld through primers, seam sealer etc.

U-Pol for spray on weld thru primer. SEM, thin and runny. NAPA a bit too thick. IMO.
I use NAPA because its easy. But it makes a BIG ASS mess. I'm going to try shaking it longer.

On my project I've used 2-3 different brands of seam sealer. But I'm learning that I should be using a newer 2 part product. Supposedly the old school stuff will harden over time and crack and let water in, like what we see in the rear trunk area. My paint store sells Fusor brand 2 part. So that's what I'm going to switch to.


What about the eastwood primer?
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mr2by4
post Nov 25 2015, 01:17 PM
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Cleaned up the rust area to reveal the extent of the damage.
Attached Image
That is a pretty big hole.
This seems less critical
Attached Image
Is it a bad idea to try to patch this rather then replace the panel? I am juts looking to make the car safe to drive and enjoy. You can see that if I want to do restoration, there is a lot of work to be done (no jack channels on sides, home made battery box etc).
My fear is that if I cut this apart and try to weld in a new piece, I will find that the panel behind the console is too rusty to weld in my new piece(fairly likely) or that I will not get things lined up correctly as they go back together and have repaired the rust but ruined my car (less likely but more embarrassing).
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914werke
post Nov 25 2015, 01:28 PM
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sorry to say...Tip o' the ice burg.
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02loftsmoor
post Nov 25 2015, 04:22 PM
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get in there aggressively , clean and sand blast


http://www.restoration-design.com/mm5/merc...mvc?Screen=BASK
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mr2by4
post Nov 25 2015, 07:12 PM
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QUOTE(rdauenhauer @ Nov 25 2015, 11:28 AM) *

sorry to say...Tip o' the ice burg.

This is why I am interested in an option other than the iceberg. I am in no position to take on an entire iceberg at this point. It might be better for me to get this one back together and sell it at a loss and start over.
Or make a serviceable repair, put it back together and enjoy it until I am ready to tackle ripping of that whole passenger side engine bay area to deal with my concealed iceberg.
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