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> exhaust ports and pushrod tubes, need to poll the World Brain Trust
iankarr
post Nov 27 2015, 01:33 PM
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The wrencher formerly known as Cuddy_K
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Hi Guys,

Making good process on getting the engine cleaned up and tightened so it leaks less (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif). I hadn't planned on removing a heat exchanger, but it was the easiest way to rotate the engine on the stand so I could have easier access to the pushrod tubes. Happy to report that the HE nuts came off pretty easily. But when I looked in the ports, the copper gaskets weren't as clean as I'd expect. Would appreciate it if the brain trust would take a look.

I have new copper gaskets, and was thinking I'd "true" up the ports on the HE before replacing. Any tips/thoughts on that?

Also, I've read a bunch o' threads on changing the pushrod tube seals, but would appreciate any real-world suggestions.

Finally...is it OK to work on the motor upside-down on the stand? All oil has been thoroughly drained. Anything to watch out for there?

Thanks!

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TheCabinetmaker
post Nov 27 2015, 01:52 PM
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I always flatten the headers with a very large file. Use a marker or paint on the edge of the pipes and file both together with long strokes till the paint is gone. Anneal the new gaskets with a torch to soften them. A dowel rod with some sandpaper glued to the end will help to clean up the ports on the head.

If the push rods aren't leaking, I wouldn't disturb them.
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914_teener
post Nov 27 2015, 03:24 PM
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QUOTE(The Cabinetmaker @ Nov 27 2015, 11:52 AM) *

I always flatten the headers with a very large file. Use a marker or paint on the edge of the pipes and file both together with long strokes till the paint is gone. Anneal the new gaskets with a torch to soften them. A dowel rod with some sandpaper glued to the end will help to clean up the ports on the head.

If the push rods aren't leaking, I wouldn't disturb them.



Use the Viton seals....and depending if you listen to Elliot....use lots of silicone.

Just kidding. You shouldn't need any just make sure the keeper spings are centered in the tubes correctly and seated otherwise they will rub the push rods.

Use the hi temp anti-sieze on the exhaust flange nuts.

In addition to annealing the copper gaskets I use the high temp copper silicone with my finger on the exhaust ports after the gaskets are in.

They haven't leaked in three years.

They are lots of threads on this and some degree of opinions....one thing I would highly recommend is that you make sure the exhaust is not leaking inside the tube and exchangers so that you aren't getting exhaust fumes inside the cabin. Not good.

My 02. cents
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iankarr
post Nov 27 2015, 09:05 PM
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Thanks guys. Good suggestions. Will check the integrity of the HE to make sure nothing's getting inside...though I'm pretty sure all's well. I have a 65 mustang with original manifolds that are notorious for burning through exhaust donuts and unfortunately know the signs of CO exposure!

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