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> Converting from Fuel Injection to Carbs, Need Fuel Distrabution help
ClayPerrine
post Apr 10 2016, 04:50 PM
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The FI will run smoother and more reliably on a 914. The carb linkage is affected by the engine heating and cooling, and the carbs get out of sync easily. So unless you have a big motor with lots of cam, the FI works better.

That being said, if you cant find your set of cooling flaps, I have a LOT of them. You can have one set for the cost of shipping.
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era vulgaris
post Apr 25 2016, 03:15 PM
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QUOTE(stugray @ Apr 10 2016, 03:59 PM) *


Thanks!

Great!, I guess I need to get under my car and see if I can close the slot where air is now blowing onto my oil cooler that is no longer there....


I had another 914 owner who's rebuilding his engine take a couple pics of the flap with the shroud disassembled.




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colingreene
post Apr 26 2016, 09:44 AM
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i actually need a set for a motor i am building here.
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Robin914-4
post Jun 29 2016, 06:54 PM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Apr 10 2016, 05:50 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The FI will run smoother and more reliably on a 914. The carb linkage is affected by the engine heating and cooling, and the carbs get out of sync easily. So unless you have a big motor with lots of cam, the FI works better.

That being said, if you cant find your set of cooling flaps, I have a LOT of them. You can have one set for the cost of shipping.


Wish I would have seen this earlier. I just got a set off of eBay and that set me back 75 bucks. As far as the EFI, I sold it because I was lead to believe that since I put a big bore kit in it that the EFI being a closed system wouldn't work. Also I am very old school and am much better with carbs.
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Perry Kiehl Clone
post Jun 30 2016, 02:00 PM
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Not meant to insult, but if you got a set of carbs for $75, I'm betting you'll have a bunch of trouble. You may have gotten lucky, or you may have gotten someone else's problems. A mild bump in displacement won't really be a problem with the FI system. You may need to dial it in with a wide band O2 sensor, but it should work fine. All of the advice you are getting to keep the FI is with and for good reason.
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ChrisFoley
post Jul 1 2016, 06:49 AM
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QUOTE(Perry Kiehl Clone @ Jun 30 2016, 04:00 PM) *

Not meant to insult, but if you got a set of carbs for $75, I'm betting you'll have a bunch of trouble. You may have gotten lucky, or you may have gotten someone else's problems. A mild bump in displacement won't really be a problem with the FI system. You may need to dial it in with a wide band O2 sensor, but it should work fine. All of the advice you are getting to keep the FI is with and for good reason.

He said he got a set of cooling flaps for $75.
And he already sold the FI system.
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Gunn1
post Jul 2 2016, 08:50 AM
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Fuel Injection is definitely the way to go if your going to stay stock or almost stock as many will attest to on the site......

There are many great sites that will help with identifying the parts you will need and more importantly what you will need as a complete system to work.

The ECU/brain, injectors, TPS and the other items are not necessarily interchangeable. Identification has more to do with your engines displacement.

Good Luck!
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DBCooper
post Jul 3 2016, 06:55 AM
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QUOTE(OU812 @ Jul 2 2016, 07:50 AM) *

Fuel Injection is definitely the way to go if your going to stay stock or almost stock as many will attest to on the site......

There are many great sites that will help with identifying the parts you will need and more importantly what you will need as a complete system to work.

The ECU/brain, injectors, TPS and the other items are not necessarily interchangeable. Identification has more to do with your engines displacement.

Good Luck!


Wow. A month ago you literally didn't know the difference between fuel injection and carbs and now you're an "internet expert," giving other people advice... and all without even learning how to use the "search" function. This whole interweb thing is pretty amazing.


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forrestkhaag
post Jul 3 2016, 12:15 PM
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I am confused with this discussion of flaps or no flaps. I have been running my 2.2L carbed 4 with flaps set at full open/no thermostat for thousands of miles; some at top speeds over long hauls across the Arizona desert, California mountains, from the beach up to Flagstaff in a downpour then a driving snowstorm (without any heater - much less engine coolers), and I have a cool running engine that takes longer to heat up to running temp but is far from fried or frying.... i am fully appreciative of Dave's acumen in the annals of 914 lore but i remain (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) .

The other day, it was 119 degrees in the desert and the car went from 68 at the beach to 119 and back.... and ran like a top.... ////way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


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Gearhead1432
post Jul 3 2016, 09:10 PM
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QUOTE(forrestkhaag @ Jul 3 2016, 11:15 AM) *

I am confused with this discussion of flaps or no flaps.



Removing only the thermostat is just going to cause the engine to warm up more slowly.

People have been doing this in places like California for decades. Some because they think it will keep the engine cooler in hot summers, or "just in case" they fail closed. Both cases are false economy.

The best is to have the thermostat installed and properly adjusted.

The cooling flaps must be installed. I would consider it critical in any aircooled engine and even more so with the type 4.
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Dave_Darling
post Jul 3 2016, 11:23 PM
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QUOTE(forrestkhaag @ Jul 3 2016, 11:15 AM) *

I am confused with this discussion of flaps or no flaps.


You *do* have the flaps, which is correct. The trouble comes when people completely remove the flaps. That will cause problems, as the one flap serves to duct air through the oil cooler. But people have, for years, thought that the flaps only get in the way and removed them.

Having the thermostat be non-operational isn't great, but it isn't awful. Removing the flaps completely is awful.

--DD
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Robin914-4
post Dec 12 2016, 06:26 AM
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I was just rereading this thread and admiring all of the great advice that was given me. Thanks again everybody. I haven't attacked any of these issues yet because I have been working on the interior dash and seats ect. ect. I have decided that I am taking most of the advice on here. I have flaps ready to go in and in my boxes and boxes of stuff I have found a brand new thermostat so it will be going in as well. Of course to do all of this I will be pulling the engine out and rerouting all of the fuel lines and doing the pass through and finding a rotary 9psi pump and no pressure regulator. Less parts, less worries. Having the engine out will also afford me the room to rewire and try to make a single plug connection for future removals.

Now for totally off the wall crazy question. Has anybody ever had any luck turbo or super charging on the these engines?

Thanks again everybody. I finally have gotten some time and a little cash to do somethings with this car so hopefully I will be posting some pictures soon.

Robin
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Mark Henry
post Dec 12 2016, 07:27 AM
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QUOTE(DBCooper @ Jul 3 2016, 07:55 AM) *

QUOTE(OU812 @ Jul 2 2016, 07:50 AM) *

Fuel Injection is definitely the way to go if your going to stay stock or almost stock as many will attest to on the site......

There are many great sites that will help with identifying the parts you will need and more importantly what you will need as a complete system to work.

The ECU/brain, injectors, TPS and the other items are not necessarily interchangeable. Identification has more to do with your engines displacement.

Good Luck!


Wow. A month ago you literally didn't know the difference between fuel injection and carbs and now you're an "internet expert," giving other people advice... and all without even learning how to use the "search" function. This whole interweb thing is pretty amazing.


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NS914
post Dec 12 2016, 08:57 AM
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QUOTE(Robin914-4 @ Dec 12 2016, 08:26 AM) *

I was just rereading this thread and admiring all of the great advice that was given me. Thanks again everybody.


I am echoing Robin914-4 comments re an education...what a great thread. Reading it through, I / we saw some dissenting opinions but reading to the end gave me a much more thorough appreciation for what these things do.

Much thanks to everyone. Yup, my motor is out of the car and I will be installing a set of flaps and a thermostat....which I might add I don't currently have! Will get there though. Thanks to everyone for jumping on this.

Not sure if it truly is suitable but the discussion as a whole would be a great candidate for the Classic Thread column. Grant
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rhodyguy
post Dec 12 2016, 12:24 PM
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With no fp regulator that 9psi is prob going to cause some problems.
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porschetub
post Dec 12 2016, 12:25 PM
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Test thermostat before installing if not new,check condition of cable roller,make sure the pivot bushes for the flaps inside the fan housing aren't causing any binding,the whole system needs to move freely.
Lastly, the cable must be adjusted correctly on the air flap clamp.
The whole cooling system function on T4/T1 engines is often misunderstood or ignored completely by many.....big mistake.
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pbanders
post Dec 12 2016, 06:12 PM
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FWIW, the main purpose of the thermostat and air flaps is to get the engine up to operating temperature faster. Why would you want to do that? A lot of reasons. The colder the motor the richer the mixture, this means higher emissions, poorer fuel economy, more engine wear (cylinder washing by richer mixture), and fuel dilution of the crankcase oil. It also means that it takes longer to drive off dissolved water in the oil, leading to more internal corrosion and increasing the tendency of the crankcase oil to sludge.

The problems are more pronounced if you use the car mostly around town, and go through many start/stop cycles. If you only drive the car on the freeway for long distances, it probably won't matter as much.
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