Gathering parts for engine build, Please help me spend my money! Options

[BK911]

Have a pretty tired and worn out 1.7, which will end up shrink wrapped on a pallet.
Looking to replace with something else.
I have a 1.7 case with 2.0 crank and rods ready to go, and a complete core 2.0.
Planning on using the good 1.7 case with the 2.0 crank/rods, and the core 2.0 heads.
That is all I have figured out so far!

For a carb'd street engine, what cams?
Is Raby still the man?
Should I do a 2056? If so, which P/Cs and from where?
I have good core 2.0 cylinders. Get them bored and buy JE pistons?

Not a drag racer, canyon carving, fire breathing monster, just a pleasant driving semi daily driving commute vehicle.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[stugray]

Bore your stock cylinders to 96mm
Get Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons from European Motor Works & hastings rings.

Webcam 86b with new lifters
Tangerine racing carb linkage
Update the 2.0 rockers with the ones from the 1.7 and add the OEM Porsche 911 swivel feet adjusters.
update to chromoly pushrods.
And if the $$ is just burning a hole in your pocket, then Mallory Unilite Dizzy with MSD 6AL CD ignition (youll need the tach-adapt if you want to use the stock tach)

[thelogo]

Bore your stock cylinders to 96mm
Get Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons from European Motor Works & hastings rings.

Webcam 86b with new lifters
Tangerine racing carb linkage
Update the 2.0 rockers with the ones from the 1.7 and add the OEM Porsche 911 swivel feet adjusters.
update to chromoly pushrods.
And if the $$ is just burning a hole in your pocket, then Mallory Unilite Dizzy with MSD 6AL CD ignition (youll need the tach-adapt if you want to use the stock tach)

Would love to ditch my 1.7 and so something similar as described above
What would a ballpark budget be for something like that , not turning my own wrenches (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[colingreene]

If your on a budget Raby is not the way to go.
I build a 2258 and i want to say it cost 4k
but that was with the cost of new crank and rods.
the heads were a stock rebuild with new valves.
Chromoly pushrods 911 adjusters and i bought carbs rather than having them on hand.

[Harpo]

Jake is the man if you have the budget. It all comes down to your budget and your HP goals. 2056 might be something to consider

David

[914Sixer]

Working on a 2056 right now. Have the case at John Slacks for a line bore, oil galley plugs, etc. Crank is there now for complete work up to match case.
Went with 96mm Brial cylinders from AA and KB pistons with the Hastings rings. Going to use stock 2.0 FI with all new parts that I stashed. Rocker arms are 1.7 set up for 911 swivel feet.
Camshaft is undecided right now. I would like a Raby but the kit contains alot of the stuff I already have.

[r_towle]

Working on a 2056 right now. Have the case at John Slacks for a line bore, oil galley plugs, etc. Crank is there now for complete work up to match case.
Went with 96mm Brial cylinders from AA and KB pistons with the Hastings rings. Going to use stock 2.0 FI with all new parts that I stashed. Rocker arms are 1.7 set up for 911 swivel feet.
Camshaft is undecided right now. I would like a Raby but the kit contains alot of the stuff I already have.

You decided on the camshaft when you decided on the stock FI system.

It won't make much difference if you stick with stock, and it WILL idle properly.

[Cairo94507]

Honestly, if you are planning to daily drive this engine, FI is the way to go. Just my 2 cents.

[stugray]

Honestly, if you are planning to daily drive this engine, FI is the way to go. Just my 2 cents.

Because we all know that 914-6s cant be used as daily drivers.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

My carbed car starts every time, has never stalled, actually idles, and would blow the doors off a car with stock FI on a 2056.

Now I admit - since I don't drive it daily, that each time I fire it up, I have to wait for the FP to fill the float bowls, and I need to pump the accel pedal a couple times before it fires.
If you actually DID drive it daily, that wouldn't be a problem.

But IF you can find a perfectly working complete FI system for under $1000, then go for it (it's a unicorn)

[Al Meredith]

Definitly go 2056. I love mine , the torque is the best part. I used all Raby parts . The 914 store is now being run by LN engineering . Go to the LN web site or I think the "914 store" takes you there. Have your stock 2.0 cylinders bored to 96MM and get the Keith Black pistons from LN. Let me know if you want more info, I'm in Atlanta. AL

[BK911]

Thanks guys.

No FI for me. Spent years tweaking it and never got it to run right. Haven't touched a thing since I switched to carbs years ago.

[Spoke]

Just got my 2056 with carbs going a couple of weeks ago. Big difference from the 1.8L with FI.

I do have to pump the throttle a couple of times to start and it stumbles a little bit off idle until there's some heat in the engine but it runs great.

I was a "go FI" guy until I got this running. The simplicity of carbs is amazing compared to the D-JET system and the carbs run fine. Was going to put FI on this engine but I think I'll stay with the carbs.

[Jake Raby]

Jake is the man if you have the budget. It all comes down to your budget and your HP goals. 2056 might be something to consider

I get lots of questions about parts, and kits.. You guys need to understand that I sold the Type 4 Store to LN Engineering almost 3 years ago. With that went every part right down to the last bolt. They brought back the kits, and etc, but I have ZERO to do with it.

Since then I have gone back to my roots of ONLY building engines, and we still build things the way we always have.

2016 brings more to the table again, as every engine we offer is now standardized, and I pared the offerings down to only two engines that are universally applicable. A 2270 175HP engine, and a 2563cc 215 HP offering All engines sold 2016, and beyond will have LN Nickies cylinders as standard.

I am building a 175HP 914 engine now, and plan to showcase it in my newsletters soon, as I built it piece by piece from 100% USA made components.

Narrowing down the offerings will make it possible to put engines on the shelf for immediate delivery for the first time ever. With the buyers today having bigger budgets for their cars, and with many of the buyers of our engines using them in 356/ 912 applications its time to offer immediate delivery of a pre- tuned, hot off the dyno, turn key engine.

We have worked hard to complete all the engines in our back log, and purposely have not accepted any orders in the last 6 months, so we can start from a clean slate. By mid 2016, engines will be on the shelf.