What Stubs & Axles To Use?, 914/6 Conversion with stock 2.7 Options

[gcrotvik]

I'm trying to determine if the stock 914/6 stub axles and stock 914/4 CV joints and 914/4 axles will be strong enough for a 175 HP 2.7 6 motor. The car will most likely have GT flares with 7 and 9 inch rims with Michelin PS tires.

Sorry if this topic has been covered before.

Opinions?

[mepstein]

Eric Shea has a great write up. It sounds like you will be going 5 lug. Why not just go all 911/914-6 parts and put the whole strength question to bed.

[Steve]

I'm trying to determine if the stock 914/6 stub axles and stock 914/4 CV joints and 914/4 axles will be strong enough for a 175 HP 2.7 6 motor. The car will most likely have GT flares with 7 and 9 inch rims with Michelin PS tires.

Sorry if this topic has been covered before.

Opinions?

I ran 914-6 stub axles and stock cv's with my 2.7 with webers and headers.
I was in my mid 20's and beat the crap out of that car. Never had a problem.

[mb911]

I had stock 914 -4 parts with redrilled rear hubs on my 2.7 with zeniths and never had any issues. I was also in my 20s and the car did rolling burnouts and had no issues ever.

[gcrotvik]

Thanks for the feedback. Any other experiences?

[Martin Baker]

My vintage race car (warmed over 3.0 911SC Engine) is all stock 914/4 parts never had a single issue, ever. I have not run into anyone racing a 914 who is running 4 cylinder stuff mention axle or CV problems. Unless you have the money to just throw away, I would stay stock. Or like some, need to brag about what parts/how much money you spent. The one thing I did change was to get a set of the 1970 year model only rear hubs, and have those drilled 5x130. This I think is necessary for a track car. I am switching to a short geared, limited slip transaxle this winter for next springs season opener, so maybe then I might tear up an axle or more likely a CV, but I won't know until it happens. 4 cylinder parts are very abundant. Something to be said for that. See the car in action in my signature block.

[patssle]

I'm running stock /4 everything on my 3.0L conversion (probably pushing ~200 hp)- I hammer it daily and no problems after 3 driving seasons of daily driving so far!

[old914dog]

Vintage type 4 race car with 7 seasons on stock 914 pieces. Packed regularly, kept torqued to 30lbs, and safety wired. We just turned the CV's around last year. No Dairy Queen starts, but no mercy when racing. Also have a 3.2 ROW with cams, headers and chipped with a 901 box and 914 axles and cv's which have gone 5 years on the street without a problem. They get maintained, as well.

[patssle]

We just turned the CV's around last year

Does that extend CV life? I re-packed mine a few years ago and it had slight pitting and been fine since. But I put them back on the way they came.

[stownsen914]

I run a 2.7L 911 making around 250-260 hp in my 914 racecar, and had no issues with the stock 914 CVs and axles for many years. I use 914/6 stub axles with 911 hubs, and of course the stock 914 flanges on the trans. The only failure I had with the stock CVs was when one leaked all its grease out and I didn't notice until it was too late. At 60 hours I noticed they were all getting a little loose so I replaced them.

Now that original 914 joints aren't available, I went with type 1 joints to keep things simple. I tried the Empi ones. They are crap. I had one break after 30 minutes on the track. I switched to the German made ones that 914 Ltd sells (Chris at Tarnergine Racing did the machining). I have a couple hours on those and so far, so good. If I had any more hp I'd switch to 944, bus, or 911, joints (or 930 units if I had a lot more hp).

Scott