 Rear Trunk Pan Replacement, How To? |
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| FL000 |
 Dec 8 2015, 08:36 PM
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#1
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 394 Joined: 31-January 12 From: Lancaster, CA Member No.: 14,076 Region Association: Southern California 
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Just got my rear trunk pan from Restoration Design to replace my rusty one. Need some help from folks that have done this before. The rear and sides look straight forward - just plug weld in place. The front is what I am afraid I will screw up. As seen in the pictures below, they gave me extra material (~5/8") to do something with. I would really like to avoid butt welding the entire front section if possible - my welding skills and patience are not quite up to it. Is there a way to plug weld the front portion also? It's a trunk that will be covered in carpet so I am ok setting my bar lower than normal (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
  Edge of tape rear most represents where new pan extends to (but doesn't drop down to follow original shape)  |
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| Garland |
Dec 8 2015, 11:29 PM
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#2
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Restoration Fanatic Group: Members Posts: 1,329 Joined: 8-January 04 From: ......Michigan...... Member No.: 1,535 Region Association: Upper MidWest
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was the first step of my build, see my link below "Michigan Build"
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| 914_teener |
Dec 9 2015, 12:06 AM
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#3
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,198 Joined: 31-August 08 From: So. Cal Member No.: 9,489 Region Association: Southern California |
There is a thread on this replacement in thr classics section
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| barefoot |
Dec 9 2015, 07:05 AM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,274 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Charleston SC Member No.: 15,673 Region Association: South East States
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I did this but modified the replacement panel and butt welded the whole perimeter.
I cut out the heat shield standoffs so I could keep the shield intact. I pop riveted the heat shield using ss rivets. Photo shows what I used (note some extra bits used for hell hole repairs)  Here's finished:  |
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| FL000 |
Dec 9 2015, 07:30 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 394 Joined: 31-January 12 From: Lancaster, CA Member No.: 14,076 Region Association: Southern California
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QUOTE(Garland @ Dec 8 2015, 09:29 PM)  was the first step of my build, see my link below "Michigan Build" Cool, thanks for pointing me to your thread - a picture is worth 1000 words. Not even sure how you formed your lip to match the trans crossmember, but I know I don't have the skills to do the same. I think I will trim my replacement just before the raised portion for the crossmember, flange it, and plug weld the original. |
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| FL000 |
Dec 9 2015, 07:36 PM
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#6
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Member Group: Members Posts: 394 Joined: 31-January 12 From: Lancaster, CA Member No.: 14,076 Region Association: Southern California
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[quote name='barefoot' date='Dec 9 2015, 05:05 AM' post='2275084']
I did this but modified the replacement panel and butt welded the whole perimeter. I cut out the heat shield standoffs so I could keep the shield intact. I pop riveted the heat shield using ss rivets. Photo shows what I used (note some extra bits used for hell hole repairs) I know how mine would turn out if I went the same route - horrible! I like welding but suck at it. Maybe someday I will get a TIG and get better at butt welding sheet metal, but probably not! |
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| t collins |
Dec 9 2015, 07:48 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,270 Joined: 21-March 06 From: Virginia Member No.: 5,754 Region Association: None  |
I only needed to replace the portion to rear of the cross member
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| FL000 |
Dec 9 2015, 08:31 PM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 394 Joined: 31-January 12 From: Lancaster, CA Member No.: 14,076 Region Association: Southern California
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QUOTE(t collins @ Dec 9 2015, 05:48 PM) I only needed to replace the portion to rear of the cross member That's exactly what I plan to do. Thanks |
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| r_towle |
Dec 9 2015, 08:40 PM
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#9
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States
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Just because you have the whole panel does not mean you need to use the whole panel.
Only replace what you need to replace and grind the welds to hide the repair both top and bottom to make it smooth. For the flange you can get a flange tool from harbor freight . |
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| Luke M |
Dec 10 2015, 07:59 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,372 Joined: 8-February 05 From: WNY Member No.: 3,574 Region Association: North East States
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| FL000 |
Dec 10 2015, 09:51 AM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 394 Joined: 31-January 12 From: Lancaster, CA Member No.: 14,076 Region Association: Southern California
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QUOTE(Luke M @ Dec 10 2015, 05:59 AM) Not sure how I missed that when looking at their videos - thanks |
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| worn |
Dec 10 2015, 10:51 AM
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#12
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,156 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest
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QUOTE(t collins @ Dec 9 2015, 05:48 PM) I only needed to replace the portion to rear of the cross member That is what I did. They have slightly changed the pressing since mine I think. |
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