BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Barn find with 50k original miles Options

[Matty900]

More work on getting the oil leaks dealt with. New viton valve cover gaskets and viton push rod seals. Along with some Gasgacinch for good measure, it really didn't want to stick on the painted valve covers so Cary blasted the paint off of where it seats and will let it set up for a few days until we get back to the shop to get some more work done.

[Matty900]

Have not been able to find to many photos of the micro-squirt components installed on a 914 so I will try and get them documented here for my 1.7 engine.

[Matty900]

I am going to do a little cutting and pasting from the Dub Shop on this rather than trying to relay the same info:
CLT sensor (Coolant temp sensor)
The reason it is called a coolant temperature sensor is that it is actually a GM sensor for measuring coolant temp on a water cooled vehicle. Since our VW’s are air cooled we will be using it for our head temp sensor. This is the sensor that will tell the computer when the engine is cold and when to activate warmup enrichments etc. It is the single Brass lug with a flying lead. I like to place this on the hot cylinder #3. The cylinder head tin bolt works great. NOTE: This is not an actual head temp sender. It will run approximately 50% less than actual head temp but will provide the temperature curve for hot and cold starts as well as the proper warmup enrichments.

[Matty900]

We did put the stock Cylinder Head Temp Sensor in its place to plume the hole but I don't think we will be using it. Any advice you have would be appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Matty900]

We started mocking everything up so we can get the wiring, fuel lines and vacuum lines set up. We will have to take the throttle bodies off to put the engine back in the car.

[Matty900]

Fuel Rail on the Injectors in the Throttle Body on the Intake Manifold

[Matty900]

There is a retainer for the injectors that all slides in to a groove at the top of the injector and bolts on to the bottom of the Fuel Rail. It took a little work with the dremmel tool to get them all the way on without forcing them out where they would not line up with the holes in the Throttle Body, but it was pretty close.
There is a throttle body fuel rail bracket that still needs to go on but I need to drill a hole for the bolt where it mounts into the intake manifold

[Matty900]

O2 sensor installed in Triad Exhaust.
Dub shop:
Bosch LSU4.9 Lambda Sensor

Description
The newest generation of oxygen sensors are called wideband oxygen sensors. They provide a precise indication of the exact air/fuel ratio, and over the broadest range of mixtures. The Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband oxygen sensor is a 5-wire sensor that reads oxygen in much the same way as a traditional oxygen sensor. but it uses the latest "planar" construction with a special two-part sensing element to measure how much oxygen is in the exhaust. The Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband oxygen sensor has a response time of less than 100 milliseconds to changes in the air/fuel mixture, and reaches operating temperature of 700 to 800 degree Centigrade (1,400 degree F) within 20 seconds or less using its internal heater. This is nearly twice the operating temperature of a conventional oxygen sensor.

[Matty900]

We started working on a mount for the Wasted Spark Coil Pack and the Map Sensor. We will get more of this figured out Tuesday night along with the position of the arm for the Throttle Cable.

[Cairo94507]

Very cool set-up and work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Mblizzard]

Enjoyed chatting with you this weekend. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[Matty900]

Very cool set-up and work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Thank you. Cary has been doing the heavy lifting on the engine. I'm enjoying learning as we go.

[Matty900]

Enjoyed chatting with you this weekend. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks Mike, you too. I can see more people wanting to go the Micro Squirt route but there is not a lot of info on installing it in a 914, so I started a thread to try and get some more install info collected for anyone else that wants to try it. If you want to add some of your installing info to that thread it may help. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2592977

[cary]

After taking a few days to absorb the work we did last week I'm trying not to over think this deal. At times one feels there isn't enough info. But the more I read less is more. This Dub Shop kit seems to be Plug & Play, other than power to the Ecu and the fuel pump. In my mind I've been trying to run the fuel pump off the relay board. I'd like to keep the fuel pump on a relay and fuse. But with all the problems we've had with poor quality round relays I think I'll pass.


At the same time I'd like to fuse or circuit breaker the power wires off the battery. I love the circuit breakers we've got from Tuthill for the rally cars, but they're a little a little to big. I'm still surfing the web. I want a unit that I can put in all cars. But it has to be sanitary.....................


Short term I'll use inline ATC fuse holes.

[914_teener]

O2 sensor installed in Triad Exhaust.
Dub shop:
Bosch LSU4.9 Lambda Sensor

Description
The newest generation of oxygen sensors are called wideband oxygen sensors. They provide a precise indication of the exact air/fuel ratio, and over the broadest range of mixtures. The Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband oxygen sensor is a 5-wire sensor that reads oxygen in much the same way as a traditional oxygen sensor. but it uses the latest "planar" construction with a special two-part sensing element to measure how much oxygen is in the exhaust. The Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband oxygen sensor has a response time of less than 100 milliseconds to changes in the air/fuel mixture, and reaches operating temperature of 700 to 800 degree Centigrade (1,400 degree F) within 20 seconds or less using its internal heater. This is nearly twice the operating temperature of a conventional oxygen sensor.

Love this thread and FI set up.

Did you ceramic coat the Triad after welding on the bung?

[Matty900]

Love this thread and FI set up.

Did you ceramic coat the Triad after welding on the bung?

Thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
I had the Triad built with the O2 bung in case I ended up going this way. While you're in there right? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[cary]

Spoke to soon ................
We'll need to install two relays, power and fuel pump. Plus build a ground and 12v harness. The MicroSquirt harness is primarily signal and control wiring.

[Matty900]

Getting closer

[raynekat]

OK....this looks "dangerous." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

Getting closer

[cary]

Onto to blending the 914 ignition cable into the MicroSquirt cable.
The Microsquirt cable is taped to the table at the approximate lengths. Struggling a bit with TMI. Some data says power the Hall trigger with 5 volts. Others say TPS and Map only get 5 volts. Then which sensor wire do I use. It give me 4 to 6 choices.

We're going with 12 volts. The Dub Shop says his is 12volt. As for the signal, we're going with the VR1+, pin #32. Still reading .......