help - i screwed up on my v8 - advice needed Options

[jimkelly]

last week we determined that some of my oil leak problem was 4 bolts holding my carb intake to the heads, so we applied sealant and 3 stopped leaking. on Saturday I thought i'd address the last one that did not stop leaking, so not only did I add sealant to it again, I decided to use a longer bolt because the other 3 were longer. I used a 1.5" bolt but it turns out the other were probably 1.25", the max that should be used. so anyway, monday go for a drive but power is weird, I figured it had to do with engine being cold and I just changed the fuel filter and thought maybe there was some starving going on, but 30 minutes later I decided to go back home and figure out what was wrong. anyway, yesterday I pull the valve cover off to find a cracked valve rod that I retrieved from the head with a magnet on a stick but I had to remove the intake to put the lifter back in the head. anyway, it is all back together but it revs ok in neutral but under load it is either valves or knocking. what you think? anyway, why does a guy with so little mechanical prowess own a 914, who the hell knows. i'd like to think the noise is due mostly to timing cause I of course had to pull the distributor. and I never put a tdc mark on my flywheel or crank balancer, need to, asap. I first thought it was vacuum advance problem but vacuum is pulling thru hose.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfKEa1-W0XQ


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[veekry9]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGT_qP14Hig

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkJ3fd9_k5g

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http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_small-block_engine
http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories
http://www.chevydiy.com/chevy-small-block-...nd-valvetrains/

Large stationary gensets and power transmission lube systems are analyzed regularly on a schedule as a preventive measure.
The oil,when warmed,will flow through a fine filter cloth which will capture various large metallic particles.
The microscopic ones will pass through,mostly.The large chunks are in the bottom of the pan.
Mustn't leave those there,to be picked up and pumped by the fresh oil.
While the pan is dropped for cleaning,have a look at the bottoms of each bore for signs of scoring.
Peek into the cylinder at BDC with your borescope so a picture of all 8 bores are a known condition.
Inspect the cam's lobes,from the valley top,keeping the order of the lifters and pushrods maintained(wear pattern matching).
A dissasembly and cleaning of the pushrods and lifters is a detail sometimes left out.
While the tallblock is half naked,a thorough solvent wash to clean the sludge off will allow the fresh oil to be fresh.
A big question at this point is the condition of the cam chain,have a look up and search for slack.
Roll the crank slightly to observe,and if it's acceptable you won't have to drop the drivetrain.
Detail oriented motivation would have several main and rod plastigage clearances checked at this point,along with the oil pump's.
The results of the top end leakdown tests will tell the wear condition of the valves and rings.
Marginal upstairs means the same below,it is now the time to decide if a new set of bottom bearings should be installed in situ.
If so,plastigage each one,being very careful not to shave any of the shells,nick any journals,working in a spotless method,super cleanly.
Use brake cleaner spray to wash the parts,assembly lube on the shells.Measure(mike with correct anvils) every one that came out and compare to what you put in.
These modern bearings sure beat the hell out of poured babbit,so convenient.
One at a time,do not mix up the nuts and bolts,all the caps go on the same way,mark them first.
Have a look at the crank seals for signs of leakage,the front important because the replacement means an engine drop.
After you button it up,make a plan to heat the new oil and prime the system while rolling the crank 720*.
Make #1 TDC on compression,plant the distributor and set initial,crank without spark,looking for oil pressure,add spark and start.
Because you have ensured the carb is in top shape,it should fire inside 7 secs.
Listen intently for strange noises like bearings squealing or pistons hammering.
Set the idle screw,set the timing on the light,allow to come to temp,set idle again,watching the oil pressure.
Take it to 2K and back to idle,stepping up in 500 rpm steps,repeat to 500 below redline.
Allow to cool,restart and step up again,and if all is well,go for a drive,oil pressure noting.
Tune for winter and summer,noting the new oil consumption,sniff the tailpipe at the dyno shop.
Running a high performance engine,a constant r+r of the wear surfaces makes for cheap fun power.

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From what I can see,those rollercam 350s in Newcastle should slip right in,the intake bolt pattern might be different though.
Two bolts on each side in the center.Have a look at yours and those with pix.Note the numbers of all the blocks and heads.
Run that past Renegade,they have solutions.I'm not sure about your waterpump mounts.

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