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> Hot Start Relay, What Rating?
andys
post Feb 10 2016, 07:49 PM
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When I originally built my LS1 conversion car, I didn't add a relay for the starter solenoid (to save the ignition switch). I can retrofit one quite easily, however what rating of relay is really necessary? I have a 30 amp, which would seem to me to be plenty good to activate the solenoid. Thoughts?

Andys
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andys
post Feb 11 2016, 03:56 PM
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Thanks for the replies!

I hadn't considered a fuse, so yes I'll add one (I have an open slot in my power distribution fuse block). I would think a 10 or 15 amp fuse would be good enough.

Andys
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Mark Henry
post Feb 11 2016, 04:32 PM
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QUOTE(andys @ Feb 11 2016, 04:56 PM) *

Thanks for the replies!

I hadn't considered a fuse, so yes I'll add one (I have an open slot in my power distribution fuse block). I would think a 10 or 15 amp fuse would be good enough.

Andys

Why do you need a fuse?
To gain two more potential fail points?
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andys
post Feb 11 2016, 05:01 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 11 2016, 02:32 PM) *

QUOTE(andys @ Feb 11 2016, 04:56 PM) *

Thanks for the replies!

I hadn't considered a fuse, so yes I'll add one (I have an open slot in my power distribution fuse block). I would think a 10 or 15 amp fuse would be good enough.

Andys

Why do you need a fuse?
To gain two more potential fail points?


Here's my setup: I have an 6 position distribution fuse block (two rad. fans, fuel pump, OBD2) with two open slots, fed by an 8ga wire that's protected by a 50 amp circuit breaker. I think it's a good idea to protect the solenoid wire with a fuse to avoid drawing up to 50 amps should a short or overload occur. The the fuse block will be my power source for the relay/solenoid wire.

Andys
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Mark Henry
post Feb 11 2016, 08:46 PM
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QUOTE(andys @ Feb 11 2016, 06:01 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 11 2016, 02:32 PM) *

QUOTE(andys @ Feb 11 2016, 04:56 PM) *

Thanks for the replies!

I hadn't considered a fuse, so yes I'll add one (I have an open slot in my power distribution fuse block). I would think a 10 or 15 amp fuse would be good enough.

Andys

Why do you need a fuse?
To gain two more potential fail points?


Here's my setup: I have an 6 position distribution fuse block (two rad. fans, fuel pump, OBD2) with two open slots, fed by an 8ga wire that's protected by a 50 amp circuit breaker. I think it's a good idea to protect the solenoid wire with a fuse to avoid drawing up to 50 amps should a short or overload occur. The the fuse block will be my power source for the relay/solenoid wire.

Andys

OK....I just take power from the large battery cable + on the solenoid.


This pic from several years ago and I do a better a crimp job* but it shows the wiring well.
Like I said, not a single OE wire is cut or any holes drilled.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-26-1279679188_thumb.jpg)

This shows how I bolt it to the lower starter bolt.
Be careful bending the bracket so you don't stress the solenoid housing and note that the solenoid does ground on the bracket

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-26-1279679515_thumb.jpg)

*I know the crimps are messy this wiring was either one of my first attempts from the 80's or someone else's work. I do remember grabbed quickly at the time just to show how I wire and mount the solenoid.
I remove the yellow plastic, crimp it correctly and shrink tube the ends, Plus on the ford small post I use a ring spade adapter like below when I do it.
BTW that is the 901 (911) with 914 gearing that is in my '67 VW bug, in case you are wondering.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.polevolt.co.uk-26-1455245159.1.jpg)
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