trailing arm bushing install Options

[914_teener]

Did you guys mic the inside of the trailing arm to the OD of the bushing?

What were the results?

[Amphicar770]

Aw, damn. I spoke to soon on last message which I am now editing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

While better than before, I still have a gap on the long side that I can fit a quarter between the bushing and the arm. Hopefully this is "close enough". Maybe I will test fit and see if it will go in car that way.
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FINALLY! On try number "a lot", the darn things are in properly.

I think another problem is that with the tool over the rubber bush it creates air pressure / a vacuum that pushes or pulls the bushing against force you are trying to apply. On this last round, especially near the end I would bring it in just slightly and release pressure on the pipe clamp. Each time I did so, I could hear a hiss of air as the tool loosened on the bushing. Perhaps a small hole drilled in top of tool would accomplish same air pressure release.

What I thought would be an easy job turned out to be a royal PIA. Do hope others share their experiences and tips. Not that I expect to be doing this again in my lifetime!

[Amphicar770]

I just received a reply from Elephant Racing. The comment that it may take a few tries is definitely a yellow flag to anyone attempting this. As noted, in the likely event you have to reverse things I do not see how you can do so without a press.

If you do not have the tools, having someone local do the work may be a good choice. The problem with shipping to Elephant or elsewhere is that the arms are heavy and bulky so shipping would probably be very expensive. Will also be interesting to hear from those who have used rubber bushings from other sources.

I do not know if Elephant frequents 914World but I suggested that they may want to check out / respond to this message thread directly.

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HI Michael

Try inserting the bushing into the arm with only water on the OD. Then
make sure you have soap on the entire length of the shaft. This helps the
bushing stay in position in the arm, and the shaft less inclined to pull it
in.

I may also be helpful to reverse the direction of the shaft briefly if you
see it starting to pull the bushing in.

It may take a few tries to get it right.

We do offer the installation as a service.

regards
Chuck Moreland

[BeatNavy]

I just went through this process this weekend. I can say unequivocally, without reservation or qualification, that this process is indeed a BITCH. I experienced both problems the OP had - the bushing get pulled into the trailing arm and the bushing not flush against the trailing arm. It didn't help when my harbor freight press bottle jack went south. I spent two days trying to bleed that thing with no luck, and finally just bought a new bottle jack.

A couple of things to note:

1. I agree with their recommendation to NOT put soap on the OD of the rubber bushings before installing in the arm. When I did that, that's when the bushing would get pulled into the arm.

2. When the bushing starts getting pulled into the arm, the pivot shaft is completely stuck to the rubber. Give up and start over at that point with more soap. Keep trying until the rubber doesn't stick.

3. It's good to have a second person to help. This is exhausting partially because you have to keep re-positioning the press shelf and cranking the jack many times.

4. This will take several attempts. Have a pipe available with an OD smaller than the ID of the bushing so you can easily push the shaft partially out before trying again.

None of these will really make sense unless you've tried this. It can be done, but it is not easy.

[raynekat]

I just went through this process this weekend. I can say unequivocally, without reservation or qualification, that this process is indeed a BITCH. I experienced both problems the OP had - the bushing get pulled into the trailing arm and the bushing not flush against the trailing arm. It didn't help when my harbor freight press bottle jack went south. I spent two days trying to bleed that thing with no luck, and finally just bought a new bottle jack.

A couple of things to note:

1. I agree with their recommendation to NOT put soap on the OD of the rubber bushings before installing in the arm. When I did that, that's when the bushing would get pulled into the arm.

2. When the bushing starts getting pulled into the arm, the pivot shaft is completely stuck to the rubber. Give up and start over at that point with more soap. Keep trying until the rubber doesn't stick.

3. It's good to have a second person to help. This is exhausting partially because you have to keep re-positioning the press shelf and cranking the jack many times.

4. This will take several attempts. Have a pipe available with an OD smaller than the ID of the bushing so you can easily push the shaft partially out before trying again.

None of these will really make sense unless you've tried this. It can be done, but it is not easy.

Been there, done that....just 2 weeks ago.
Yes no soap between bushing and arm or the bushing will get pulled into the arm.
You cannot use too much soap between the bushing and the shaft.
Took a couple attempts to get it right.
Definitely a learning curve on this.
My Thai wife learned some new "English" adverbs when I was working on this with her help. Honey, what does that word mean? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Truly a royal PITA job.
When complete, I drank an entire growler in one sitting.
At least it was a good PNW double IPA.

Oh....BTW.
The front A arm rubber bushings are no easier.
A 2nd growler is required for finishing those.

[N_Jay]

So the question becomes:

Doing a roadworthy restoration, should the bushings be replaced?
How can you tell bad from good?
Are hard "race" (not rubber) bushings a better choice for the shade-tree mechanic?