Ignition System: Cranking very well but won't start 75 1.8FI, Fixed: Major concern Ignitor and #3 fuel injector. :THANKS TIM! Options

[ndfrigi]

It's a blind and expensive way to go about solving a problem.

My 73 has the same ignitor, should i use that to test it?

[Series9]

Do you have a timing light?

Hook it up and see if it blinks during cranking.

[Series9]

Actually, here's the easiest way to diagnose a non-running condition as either fuel or spark:

Get some starting fluid and shoot it in the intake.

Does the car sputter when cranked?

Yes: Fuel problem
No: Ignition problem

[ssuperflyoldguy]

Has maybe been covered before but for working on automotive electrical - I'm a HUGE fan of the PowerProbe. Quick & easy once you're comfortable with using it, wish I had one since day one as I've always done my own work. And does odd voltages from 0 - 48v DC. Still need a digital multimeter however

[TheCabinetmaker]

I've seen an sbc literally blow out a head gasket and bend push rods from starting fluid. At the very least, it will wash the oil from the cylinders and score cylinder walls. Use gas, not starting fluid.

[thelogo]

[quote name='The Cabinetmaker' date='Feb 20 2016, 02:54 PM' post='2305605']
I've seen an sbc literally blow out a head gasket and bend push rods from starting fluid. At the very least, it will wash the oil from the cylinders and score cylinder walls. Use gas, not starting











Dont throw parts just install yourself a new engine

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[TheCabinetmaker]

Dont throw parts just install yourself a new engine 
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

[ndfrigi]

Joe (Series9):

Do you have a timing light?

Hook it up and see if it blinks during cranking.

my reply: Sorry Joe I don't have timing light.



Timothy_nd28

The next step is to see if the fuel delivery is the problem with the no start condition. Either jump the fuel pump with 12vdc or at the dual relay find pin 88d and jump that terminal to the positive battery post. The wire on pin 88d should be a big black wire with red stripe.

my reply: I was able to hook 88d from dual relay to battery and I immediately heard the fuel is flowing. But same thing it is just cranking when I tried to start it.

[Jeffs9146]

Vacuum Leaks.

[timothy_nd28]

Now that fuel delivery is proven to turn on, turn your attention to the ignition side. With your multimeter, set it for DC volts. Probe the + side of the ignition coil with one meter lead and probe the negative battery post with the other meter lead. Turn the ignition switch to on, and observe what the meter is saying.

[ndfrigi]

Now that fuel delivery is proven to turn on, turn your attention to the ignition side. With your multimeter, set it for DC volts. Probe the + side of the ignition coil with one meter lead and probe the negative battery post with the other meter lead. Turn the ignition switch to on, and observe what the meter is saying.

Yes sir I did that and there is 12 v supply.

[Rotary'14]

Hey Noel,,,
you can check for spark by doing what this guy shows,,, but you need an assistant to crank the engine while you observe.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZceAZgZBn9E

if you do have a nice strong spark,, you will still eventually need to buy a timing light to fine tune your timing. but I doubt your timing would've moved on it's own,,, so I would rule out the ignition at this point and look at other things that might prevent your car from running.

Come to think of it,,, I think autozone lends out tools timing lights and compression testers are something you might be able to borrow.

take care
-Robert

[timothy_nd28]

I agree, I was going to suggest this as the next step. You can test spark by following the steps in the video, but like Joe stated earlier, it's far easier with a timing light. This is a tool you should have anyways with a old car.

Clip the timing light to any sparkplug wire, as you crank the engine, observe for any flashes the timing light emits. Also, obtain a fuel pressure gauge (another tool you should have), and connect it to the fuel rail. Even though the fuel pump is running, it would be nice to know what the pressure is

[ndfrigi]

Hi Robert! Thanks for the suggestion too!
Timothy_nd28 thanks again!

Maybe I should buy timing light now since I will be installing the djet of the 73 1.7 i recently bought.

[ndfrigi]

Vacuum Leaks.

Hi Jeff, thanks for your suggestion. Although the car is running well that day and I had replaced all vacuums lines less than a 1,000 miles it was driven. But well, no harm in checking them and maybe it has a leak(s) already after the lines was replaced last 2011.

[ndfrigi]

I agree, I was going to suggest this as the next step. You can test spark by following the steps in the video, but like Joe stated earlier, it's far easier with a timing light. This is a tool you should have anyways with a old car.

Clip the timing light to any sparkplug wire, as you crank the engine, observe for any flashes the timing light emits. Also, obtain a fuel pressure gauge (another tool you should have), and connect it to the fuel rail. Even though the fuel pump is running, it would be nice to know what the pressure is

Thinking of buying a fuel pressure gauge that I will add on my fuel rail.
Is this a good type/model?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VRAH6...psc=1&smid=

[r_towle]

Pull a plug.
Place plug back into the spark plug wire.
Using a leather glove, hold plug against a good ground to touch the body of the plug to the ground, yet leave the plug visible to let you see the spark event.
Have someone turn over the car in neutral while you watch for a spark....it will only take a couple of seconds to creat a spark.

Sounds like a wiring problem if it did work, you worked on the car, and now it does not work.

Is the wire to the distributor still plugged in? The white trigger wire? I think it's white...

[ndfrigi]

Pull a plug.
Place plug back into the spark plug wire.
Using a leather glove, hold plug against a good ground to touch the body of the plug to the ground, yet leave the plug visible to let you see the spark event.
Have someone turn over the car in neutral while you watch for a spark....it will only take a couple of seconds to creat a spark.

Sounds like a wiring problem if it did work, you worked on the car, and now it does not work.

Is the wire to the distributor still plugged in? The white trigger wire? I think it's white...

No white but there is a light gray I think but connected to the negative side of the coil.
thanks also for sharing your knowledge!

[ndfrigi]

well after few weeks of not really taking care of my 75. Now I'm back after finishing (almost done) the 71 1.7 Megasquirt rear ear suspension replacement and last week we were able to install the engine back. Now the 71 is running after I bought it last 2014.

Well, this afternoon, I tried doing some checking and did a few trial starting the car and still won't start. What I noticed, the ignition key seems having some problem, it requires me to turn the key a few tries before the engine crank or starter turns until it was totally not cranking anymore. So i assume it was the ignition switch need replacement. I took the ignition switch from a roller car and after trying to start it again, same issue does not crank.

Is there something I should check why it is not cranking anymore even after replacing the ignition switch? Battery has around 12.8 volts (meaning battery is not drain), checked the ground cable of tranny with under rear trunk, checked wires connected to the starter.

Any other things should I check to make it crank again and to be able to go back on my original problem?

[ndfrigi]

Hi again fellow members:

Update: Still same issue.
After finishing the 71 1.7 megasquirt that Bro. Bob bought from me which is now running and he is enjoying driving with it while fixing some details with the car.
I was able to do several testing, swapping parts on my 75 1.8 FI.

1. Ignition switch was new after it failed during several testing.
2. Swap following parts:
* ECU (no known condition but borrowed it from Abe that came from his 75 1.8 Ljet which is now using carb).
* Thermo time switch
* Resistor pack (2 used spare)
* ignitor to standard points with condenser and to new ignitor. Several swapping was made.....
* dual relay (2 used spare)
* cold start valve
3. Blue coil to another blue coil and with new flame thrower coil
4.Did several wiring continuity with ECU, dual relay, resistor pack, fuel injector plug... and it looks all okay
5. Fuel pressure checked with 35-36 psi
6. Good spark on the other end of the plug wire (end wire from coil to center of distributor cap).

MY CONCERN NOW IS: NO FUEL SPRAY on both 3 and 4 injectors. (didn't check number 1 and 2 since there is no much room because of the air filter and I assumed it will be the same with number 3 and 4). I Removed number 3 and number 4 fuel injector from intake and insert them both to a bottle.

Any other direct items should I check now?
Or anyone from Orange county could help me that I can pay like $100 just to help me share his knowledge with FI at my place and I will do the labor work.


thank you!

followed this diagram from bowlsby to check continuity and other related parts.