Mark's (914Rubber) Project Car Options

[cary]

Now on to the nasty part. Mark and I decided that we'd change out the right motor mount too. No saving any of the that mount so I cut it out is sections so we would do the least amount of damage to the upper long.


Once again using the grinder and Steck tool to remove the spot welds. Sliced between every spot weld and worked them one at a time.


Close Your Eyes if You Have a Weak Stomach


I know the inside of the long is solid. The long is open and I can see and touch it.
Here's the patch I'll make. With a radius going over the top.




Very productive 4 hour day. Seems like everything just kind of fell into place.

[cary]

One more note... if you have a spot welder use it to mate the upper to lower sections. I found that plug welding it in was ok but the spot welder would be a cleaner install. We bought a spot welder after the fact but I'll go back to hit a few spots.

We do have a Lenco panel spotter. Haven't used it on the car yet. We'll see if it will fit up in there.

I think I have everything cut out and saved. If not the big pieces are setting on the table.

[jmitro]

nice work. cutting out the bad pieces like that is such a tedious job, but worth it in the end

[BeatNavy]

If you plan on using the RD firewall you'll need a few parts off the old firewall so hang on to it until you install the new one.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I'm there right now. You need as a minimum the speedometer cable outlet from the firewall and the shifter bushing reinforcing plate (or whatever it's called). Picture below after I removed it from the old firewall and cleaned it up.



I'm going to weld this piece on tomorrow. I'm going to put the Tangerine Racing Shift Bushing on this, and this is what it's mounted to.

Keep up the great work, Cary!

[cary]

I've removed the brake bias bracket and the speedo cable tube so far.
Haven't looked at the shift bushing that closely yet.

[cary]

After Rob's friendly reminder I pulled all of the pieces that need to be swapped onto the new firewall.


Notes for the location of the nut plates for the left inner firewall that has yet to arrive.


Then onto the removal of the outer skin of the inner long behind the motor mount.
For the most part, the inner portion is in good shape. Nothing that a little OSPHO and cold galvanizing wont take care of.


While I was letting the OSPHO dry I got after the remaining portion of the inner firewall attached to the tunnel.


This time I used the spot weld cutter because I could cut from the inside.


Much better than the last one cut from the outside.
One blow thru .............

[cary]

Stopped off at 914 Rubber and picked up a couple more pieces from RD and two rear qtr. panels.

[cary]

After spending the first half of the week in the land of tail draggers. It's kind of nice to be back with the little cars.
I'm working outside doing my cutting, grinding and welding thing.



Patching up the rotten spot on the upper long.
Start with creating a patch pattern.



Fitted and screwed down and ready for welding.



Welded into place. Leaving the top until I create the hell panel.

[cary]

Back to work .............

First order of business was filling in a few pin holes after the grinding was done. Then I refurbished and installed the brake hose bracket.



Gave her a shot of self etching primer after everything was tidied up.


Super In Law finished the suspension tie plates.

He was tidying up the patterns so we can hand them off to one of our friends that does CNC work. If they can be done responsibly, we'll punch out 10 sets.

I moved on to the left engine shelf/firewall rust worm issues.





Started with some pattern making.



Then created the little patch next to the drain hole. Slow and steady wins the race.
Once again only two stitches. Then cool to the touch.





Flange added back in ............ 7/2/16

[cary]

Next on to the firewall itself. With combination of the heater tubes and all the copper tubing in-place I'm pretty certain it will need to be installed in two pieces. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[BeatNavy]

Next on to the firewall itself. With combination of the heater tubes and all the copper tubing in-place I'm pretty certain it will need to be installed in two pieces. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

That's the way I had to do it, Cary. I had only one heater tube on, but I couldn't make it work with everything else going on, so I sliced it up the middle and put it back together again. Sucks doing that to a beautiful new piece of metal, but it actually came out pretty well.

If you're making a handful of suspension ties and have any available, please put me down as interested. Thanks, Cary!

[cary]

Now that we've perfected the patterns we'll be able to go forward. Hopefully we'll be able to get the parts cut out with a CNC run.
Right now I think he would take about 6 hours to hand make a set. Which would make them about $260 per side.

When the patterns are perfect we'll make a couple PDF files for those that want to DIY.
After Super In Law hangs my 55" computer monitor he'll start on the second set.

[cary]

Half Day on Friday .

Started with stretching the heater tube holes a bit. A little too tight.



Used a left over portion of an exhaust pipe from another customers Toyota All Trac exhaust repair.


Needs to be able to swivel to get the correct angle of the dangle

Jeff Hail said there would be blood. Wrap the center tunnel first. Do as I say, not as I do.


Cut my ear and put about 3 cuts on my head. Like a dumbass I took off my welding cap.

Lots of fiddling to get it too fit.


Once again these cars were hand built. +/- 3mm. Fit both halfs before you start fiddling. On Mark's car the firewall is little smaller than the opening.
Here's the left and right shot.





I would have liked to have put it in there in one piece. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) But it would meant removing all the tubes. So we sawed it in half with the band saw.

Worked the left side first.





Right before leaving I slid the right side into place to see where we're at.



Plan is to slowly and patiently seam weld the two halves back together to make the seam invisible. Two tacks, then cool to the touch.
Then use the spot welder and weld in the top flange. Leaving the sides loose until we install the floor and passenger fire walls.

Today is a Dad's Garage day. Back to work on the Audi. Trying a little Liquid Steel on some broken plastic hangers for the transmission cooler loop. Then fill it up and test the new Fan Control Module.
Pulled the drivers front window frame last Sunday to replace the broken glass mount.
Easy deal. Well designed door frame. Repaired was built into the design.

[BeatNavy]

Started with stretching the heater tube holes a bit. A little too tight.

I had the same problem Cary. The ID of the heater tube opening was way too small on mine. I contacted RD and they told me to try sanding/grinding lightly. So I did. It took a good bit of time to increase it so I could get it over the tubes, and yes, it still takes a lot of finagling. I should have warned you on this one, but maybe I assumed it was only my issue.

Nice work!

[cary]

Fiddled with the right side a bit so I could get a nice butt weld in the center.
After getting the gap I was looking for I pulled both sides out and punched the rosette holes.



Then I decided it would best if I welded in the new hell hole sheet metal before I installed the firewall. It gives me a little more working room.
Step #1. Coat the inside with Eastwood HD Anti Rust.



Then proceed to create the patch panel. After getting it cut out, trimmed, fitted and rosette holes punched. I applied the weld thru primer. Finally on to the good stuff. U-Pol #2 Zinc Rich weld thru primer.





Rosette holes welded in. Slow and steady wins the race.



Welded in and all tidied up.

[cary]

While I was working on the hell hole Super In Law was dialing in the Panel Spotter. I want to use it on the upper flange on the fire wall.



He was working with new to new. And new to old.



Now he thinks he's a metal sculpture.

[tygaboy]

Once again these cars were hand built. +/- 3mm. Fit both halfs before you start fiddling. On Mark's car the firewall is little smaller than the opening.
Here's the left and right shot.

Cary - Thanks for posting this. I'm in the process of fitting my new firewall and have the exact same gap on each side. (I guess Mark and I both got 914 'wide bodies"!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

I plan to cut off each "ear" and splice in a piece on each side to make it fit. That what you have planned or are you solving it some other way?

Thanks again and keep posting - I refer to your pics and documentation all the time!

Chris

[tygaboy]

While I was working on the hell hole Super In Law was dialing in the Panel Spotter. I want to use it on the upper flange on the fire wall.



He was working with new to new. And new to old.



Now he thinks he's a metal sculpture.

I know I can't be the only one who'd be up to purchase a "Super In Law" t shirt! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Cary - you need to get a pic of him to one of our t-shirt making members and we should have a contest for the caption. Winner gets a first run t-shirt for free.

Super In Law says "Give it here, young man... I'll have that fixed in no time."

OK, so I won't win but I want a t-shirt!!

[cary]

Once again these cars were hand built. +/- 3mm. Fit both halfs before you start fiddling. On Mark's car the firewall is little smaller than the opening.
Here's the left and right shot.

Cary - Thanks for posting this. I'm in the process of fitting my new firewall and have the exact same gap on each side. (I guess Mark and I both got 914 'wide bodies"!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

I plan to cut off each "ear" and splice in a piece on each side to make it fit. That what you have planned or are you solving it some other way?

Thanks again and keep posting - I refer to your pics and documentation all the time!

Chris

I'm thinking thats probably about how the original piece fit. But because they smothered it in seam sealer we really can't tell. My plan is to center it and see how much gap I have on each end. Just finished up the seam weld right before I left tonight.

As for the T-shirts. I don't know what he'd think. I told him he would have been a celebrity at WCR if he could have made it.

[cary]

Didn't start on Mark's car till after lunch. Pulled the bumpers off my RS to get them freshened up before the Forest Grove Concours.



Started with the most important function. Seam sealing the gap between the upper long and the wheelhouse. The lack there of caused most of Mark's wheelhouse rust issues.
Two coats of Evercoat brush on. Then an application of Fusor in the am.



Then on to welding the firewall back together.





I don't know what caused that gray spot. Must be polished different and it did not like flash.